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Old 05-13-2016, 08:35 AM   #869
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Thanks knunut, I will check it out when I get to a 30 Amp service.
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Old 05-13-2016, 09:50 AM   #870
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On my 2016 it drips down on the street side tire.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:35 AM   #871
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Squeak

Does anyone else have a squeak in the floor - near the bath door?
And what can you do to mitigate it?

Thanks TR
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:24 AM   #872
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Arrow

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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Thanks renderit, do you know which way the drain tubes goes, before it exits in a wheel well as I understand it? When the AC is running a lot, I assume a puddle of condensate forms on the ground someplace. Is the puddle location uniform for all of us?

Thanks,

Peter
I have a 2015 and I think it comes out behind the tire on the street side, but I will check today if I get time.

HELP!

I have literally searched my sorry butt to death trying to find out 2 things that ought to be easy to find.

2015 - 20' Flying Cloud

1) Are the brake drums 10" or 12"?

2) What are all the numbers for the Timkin or some referenceable bearings and races (inside and outside) AND THE GREASE SEAL.

I AM NOT BEING LAZY!

I can find info but cannot trace it back to my model, much less date.
I called my dealer wanting to buy a spare set of Airstream seals and bearings to have as spares AND THEY SAID THEY DON'T KNOW!

I called Airstream and they nicely said that it was 12" brakes (which I don't see how as the eyeballed with tire mounted is closer to 11") and they sent me info with numbers for both 10 and 12 and sent a separate document to show the grease seal (because they said the other document was wrong!) which you cannot ascertain which it is (10 or 12) because the number does not match anything on the other two!

I am preparing to put on my new 16" wheels and want to lube the bearings. I know I will at least need the grease seal. I don't wish to leave the darn thing up in the air while I run all over trying to find out something which ought to be easy to find! It would be nice if this forum had a by model by year listings of parts. Searching this thread much less the site is the most frustrating thing I have done in a long time...



P.S. I may be stupid on how I search. If you locate this by search let me know HOW you did it please! I hate having to beg for info....

P.P.S. Is there a size on that cotter pin as well?
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:19 PM   #873
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YES! It's like a part of the floor didn't get sucked down with a screw or something!
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:34 PM   #874
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Broken table bracket

Didn't know what else to call it ... the strip of wood on each side of the benches to hold the table top.

One side broke when I had kids sleeping on the bed. Dealer fixed under warranty. Just after warranty expired (last Sunday) the same one broke off. As I'm looking at it, I realize it's 2 screws holding the wood up.

Good fixes for this? I don't really want to just screw it back up and keep having this happen.
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Old 05-14-2016, 11:46 PM   #875
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20-footers

I would call it a 'cleat' for lack of a better term.

Did the piece of wood break apart, or just come off?

My fix would be a wider piece of wood if possible, if not, use stronger wood like maple or oak instead of pine, and use more screws. You don't want to glue it because if it is damaged again you will have a bear of a time removing the remains for the next replacement. Glue would be a last resort.


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Old 05-15-2016, 04:27 AM   #876
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Dinette/Bed problems

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Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
I would call it a 'cleat' for lack of a better term.

Did the piece of wood break apart, or just come off?

My fix would be a wider piece of wood if possible, if not, use stronger wood like maple or oak instead of pine, and use more screws. You don't want to glue it because if it is damaged again you will have a bear of a time removing the remains for the next replacement. Glue would be a last resort.


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The wood strip is fine. The screws literally broke in half. Once I'm able to get the half of the screws out, I was going to put heavier screws or bolts in and am considering using Lock-tite with the screws.

Can't glue to the side of the bench anyway, my benches are fabric covered.

I'm sure I am not the first person with this issue - just trying to see what others have done for a permanent fix.
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Old 05-15-2016, 05:40 AM   #877
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I haven't look yet, but can't these dinette bed platform cleats be through-bolted into the vertical plywood faces under the front edges of the dinette seating? At least at the "hall" end of each cleat near the fridge, where each bench seat has an access panel on top of the plywood base?

If it is not possible to bolt the far ends of the cleats at the exterior street-side wall, having one end through-bolted with 2-3 bolts each should prevent the screws near the wall from tearing out IMO, as the bulk of the impact weight from above is when someone sits on the edge of "the bed" and rolls onto the flat to sleep.

There may be more cleats inside the dinette plywood base (to anchor the top ply to the face ply maybe?), but this possible interference can be overcome by adding small blocks if necessary to give the new hidden washers and nuts a place to "land" on new longer bolts.
[Edit -- if the new through-bolts want to hit solid ply material up at that height above the floor, maybe use longer screws, or even angle the through bolts down so that the backing washers/nuts can have a place to land cleanly? No harm in an angled bolt setup, if it is permanent. Use flat or oval head bolts, and countersink them slightly in the face of the cleat? No one would ever notice esp. for oval heads IMO.]

Will look later today, plus check out floor squeak.

Peter

PS -- Thanks renderit for the A/C drip feedback. Can't help with your specific questions, sorry. As to searching, see Post #9 in this thread FYI:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f138...es-145169.html
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:05 AM   #878
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Eagle River , Alaska
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Quick question after our first "boon docking" experience in a Walmart parking lot last night. When traveling do you leave the camper in use or store mode? We don't have solar and would just want to charge the batteries, a little, from the TV. We stopped last night and were automatically at 10.5 on the stock battery and tank monitor.
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:17 AM   #879
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We don't use "store" mode while traveling. Our interior 12v applications are disconnected in "store" mode. No lights, no pump, no fans, etc.
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Old 05-15-2016, 09:26 AM   #880
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Quick question after our first "boon docking" experience in a Walmart parking lot last night. When traveling do you leave the camper in use or store mode? We don't have solar and would just want to charge the batteries, a little, from the TV. We stopped last night and were automatically at 10.5 on the stock battery and tank monitor.
I would leave it in Use mode, but definitely disconnect the trailer from the tow vehicle overnight. I am surprised that your batteries got that low during a single overnight stop at Walmart (if I am reading you right). [edit see below, are the batteries damaged?]

Were you in Store mode when you were on the road? If so it is possible that you defeated the 12 volt charge from the tow vehicle, but don't quote me. If you have a voltage tester incl. 12v, you should also check that the tow vehicle is sending a charge from its female plug at the back of your TV.

The user "lewster" here and others know more about this, but I think that AS's electric schematics are a bit inconsistent over the years. You might check your owner's manual if that got packed before you left.

Hope you are having fun!

Peter

PS -- I forget if these are your new OEM batteries? If so they may have been damaged before you bought the trailer, and I would recommend a stop at an AS dealer service shop if you can work it in to your itinerary. If you need dealer location R&D done let us know. You may be entitled to a new set of batteries under your warranty, and Canada is probably not the best place to pursue this.
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Old 05-15-2016, 10:30 AM   #881
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Saco , Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
I would call it a 'cleat' for lack of a better term.
Did the piece of wood break apart, or just come off?

My fix would be a wider piece of wood if possible, if not, use stronger wood like maple or oak instead of pine, and use more screws. You don't want to glue it because if it is damaged again you will have a bear of a time removing the remains for the next replacement. Glue would be a last resort.
Another alternative would be a wider piece of hardwood -- such as six-inches wide -- applied flat against the side of the seat and bolted on in several places, not all in a row.
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Old 05-15-2016, 11:15 AM   #882
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[chevl66; Broken table bracket]

If it were me, I would opt for a longer piece of 1X (maybe twice as long) to spread the load horizontally across the plywood panel. The storage panel lifts up, so I would remove the top to the WH for full access.

I would replace the screws with flat head bolts & use T-Nuts (on the inside) instead of washers and bolts. Just a cleaner application and no bolts that stick out to catch anything on if you're accessing via the seat cushion panel


Bob
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