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Old 06-23-2016, 07:28 PM   #1041
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Actually Bob there were no broads on the beach back then.



I had one of the first 'glas boards made on Long Island, a Hawke 9' 6" made by Bob Hawkins one of the surfing pioneers in this area. RIP I believe.

Dashing off to Hither Hills SP for another two nights as we lucked out again on the waiting list early this morning!

Will post some ocean shots later.

Happy Trails to all -- Yee Haaaaa -- we are OTRA!

Peter
I was teasing about the balsa but I'm sure the glass boards were in their infancy. music channel = look what the (surf) cat dragged in. It looks like a great beach and break and in those days essentially private. We'll have to put this area on our future east coast tour.

Congrats on the return tour. It's great having a favorite spot so close.

Bob

p.s. looks like killer weather at the beach!
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:38 PM   #1042
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Great pictures guys, it's the season to travel! We leave Monday for the Mammoth area.
Have a great time!

Jose, I hope you had great time and maybe some good fishing. This is Sabrina Lakes...or maybe a smaller one downhill a bit. Friends from Bishop were driving. This was opening week I believe...a few years ago. Hope your luck was a good.

Bob
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:51 PM   #1043
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Thanks for the heads up. Our seals seem OK, at least from below I don't see any loose parts of the seals sticking up.

The Fan-tastic Vent instruction booklet says to contact them if the seal is damaged, so they should be able to help. 800 521-0298

They recommend a water-based protectant like 303 for the inner rib of the dome which sits on the rubber seal. And a silicon product AK-1000 to be put on the top of the seal.

I finally figured out how to remove the Pop N' Lock screen. As the instructions say, the first time pulling down on the finger tab is difficult, but once you see how the retaining tabs are arranged on the hidden back of the screen ring, you can help the plastic ring get free more easily. The first tug feels like you are going to break the screen ring for sure.

I am going to put some 303 on the bottom of the domes right now. [ edit -- NG -- hands are too big to reach up through my the fan blades to do this. Will pass on roof work for now. ]

Thanks again for the heads up, Bob!

Peter

I called the FV folks and they confirmed the 303 to the dome and the AK 1000 to the seals, then immediately said we don't sell it anymore. She said someone else there was recommending a 100% silicone (water based) granite sealant. I checked today locally & $40 a pint is a bit steep. I googled 100% silicone and found this which is sold as a rubber belt treatment for treadmills.

I sent this to the FV folks for an opinion but haven heard....tho the description is exactly what she said.

Looking at he 303 it appears to be a treatment/UV protection for things like the FV domes. They don't recommend it for the seals. This got me to thinking...I applied the 303 to the window seals and it didn't seem to change anything. I'm thinking I'll try the rubber belt treatment for the window seals as well as the FV seals.

BTW the instructions that that FV sent me included pop n' lock instructions which said to pull down firmly on the tab (mine was tucked under the gear know and hadn't noticed) However from the roof I saw the design with little tab. From the coach push the edge in so the tab clears then pull down. After I download I'll post.

Bob
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:55 PM   #1044
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Thanks yes we're having a great time up here. Fishing not too bad. Here is our campsite in Convict Lake and a shot of the lake.
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Old 06-24-2016, 05:15 AM   #1045
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Thanks Bob, great you were up on the roof and able to see the little edge tabs I was trying to describe on the FV screens. Kind of a Rube Goldberg way of getting that understanding of how to remove them though! Right?



Will check music later no WIFI here. Personal hotspot on phone is chewing through the data $$$. HH SP is one of the most popular in NYS apparently and reservations 9 months out (the max ?) get gobbled up online as soon as they open up someone told me. Gonna check June 2017 later today. TBD

Great photos Jose, boy that mountain air looks clear and pure. What was the elevation there?

Have a good weekend, we are packing up to head back home.

Peter
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:53 AM   #1046
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Thanks yes we're having a great time up here. Fishing not too bad. Here is our campsite in Convict Lake and a shot of the lake.
Sweet. Nothing like the high Sierras.

Bob
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:05 AM   #1047
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Thanks Bob, great you were up on the roof and able to see the little edge tabs I was trying to describe on the FV screens. Kind of a Rube Goldberg way of getting that understanding of how to remove them though! Right?



Will check music later no WIFI here. Personal hotspot on phone is chewing through the data $$$. HH SP is one of the most popular in NYS apparently and reservations 9 months out (the max ?) get gobbled up online as soon as they open up someone told me. Gonna check June 2017 later today. TBD

Great photos Jose, boy that mountain air looks clear and pure. What was the elevation there?

Have a good weekend, we are packing up to head back home.

Peter
Up on the roof was a stretch. I leaned a 6' alu (well padded) against the side & from the 2nd to last rung was able (almost) to reach the fan for the repair/pic. Since OSHA wasn't around I got op on the top rung to reach the other side to press in the seal. For sure re the process....clear as mud.

Oregon allows for 9 month advance resies, so when we go to Beachside for our annual trip (arrive day after labor day) in order to get "our" spot which backs up to the beach, we'd calendar the 9 month date.

Happy trails

Bob
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:16 AM   #1048
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Bob, I grabbed your quote from that other thread, as a better drawer solution would suit all the FC20's IMO. I think our pull-out pantry wire drawer, behind the door next to the fridge, disgorged one container during the trip home yesterday, and then went back in and closed the door. Weird, because I found a sole item on the floor later. Maybe we didn't latch the door well?

How about two custom bungee cords (one high and one low) across the entire bank of cabinets from the fridge to the sink corner? Four discreet little pad eyes (Up/down, L/R) with two bungee cords spanning everything, to keep all (incl. oven) from starting to open and work up a head of steam as they reach the end of their OEM throw? I will look for discreet locations for the eye pads.

We intend to boondock on some pretty rough roads eventually, and would like to guaranty that the drawers and doors stay put!

TBD.

PS -- One of the cords could actually span the fridge door, adding a level of insurance there as well. The eye pad for these could be tucked in near the little metal hooks to the right as you exit the trailer. Edit -- might as well have both cords anchor there on that small return wall, as the eye pads would be most out-of-sight!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
. . .
Having said that I still want to figure out a better way to secure the drawer. Your latch, even thought it slides into the thin drawer fascia, I suspect will be a good solution. I'll loop back after I explore the lock set. The angled adjustable shower rod, while functional is a bit of a Rube Goldberg visual.

Bob
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:24 AM   #1049
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I noticed that anything in the cabinet above the sinks gets thrown around pretty violently while in transit. I have learned to open that cabinet slowly upon arrival. I am amazed at how much bounce there is back there.

Spent the last week shortening the overhang on my carport so that it's easier to maneuver the Airstream in and out of it's storage unit. Glad I did it. Still need to get the Airstream in for some warranty issues. The radio still doesn't work, the shower leaks on the floor and the door under the bed keeps having a broken hinge. I put it back together and it falls apart. Going out for five nights over the 4th of July holiday and then will get to work on getting the coach in for some warranty work at our local AS dealer.
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:48 AM   #1050
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I use "footman loops" and a flat strap to hold my closet door and fridge closed when traveling. The flat strap is tidier than the bungee cord I once used. Footman loops are inconspicuous and install with a couple screws.

For drawers, I use child proofing straps and latches. Simple and cheap.


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Old 06-25-2016, 09:03 AM   #1051
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Thanks great idea. For instance FYI: Safari Strap kit

Plenty of different sizes, finishes etc..

The flat strap system is also good for attaching/bundling a variety of things, and I assume various "belt buckles" are available for this system.

Thanks again.

Peter
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Old 06-26-2016, 06:54 AM   #1052
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I use 2" wide strips of white velcro. The corresponding 2" x 2" soft patches on the drawers and 1"x2" on the small exposed area next to them are a small price to pay to keep them closed. The pantry is strapped to the drawer next to it in the middle. I use the "soft" part stuck on the drawers and hold down points and the "hard" part of the velcro folded over itself in the 6" lengths to stick on before we take off. Easy and reversible with no marks. The "soft" part does not stick to you if you drag across it.

When we get to the destination we just zip them off and throw them in a drawer. I can take pictures if anybody cares. 10 minutes and you fixed the problem.An that is if you are taking time to do it neat.
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:20 AM   #1053
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Do any of you have a screen for your kitchen escape exit window over the sink and a way to prop the window open?
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:54 AM   #1054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renderit View Post
I use 2" wide strips of white velcro. The corresponding 2" x 2" soft patches on the drawers and 1"x2" on the small exposed area next to them are a small price to pay to keep them closed. The pantry is strapped to the drawer next to it in the middle. I use the "soft" part stuck on the drawers and hold down points and the "hard" part of the velcro folded over itself in the 6" lengths to stick on before we take off. Easy and reversible with no marks. The "soft" part does not stick to you if you drag across it.



When we get to the destination we just zip them off and throw them in a drawer. I can take pictures if anybody cares. 10 minutes and you fixed the problem.An that is if you are taking time to do it neat.
Please do post some photo! Thank you!
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:41 AM   #1055
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Do any of you have a screen for your kitchen escape exit window over the sink and a way to prop the window open?
Hi Marty, if you start reading at Post 228 here, there was a discussion of this. I have not checked out a 2016 model to see if they have the right hardware which could be retrofit into earlier models, nor had time to fashion something permanent. Our 2014 FC20 model does have a screen, however, so I am not sure what you will do about this aspect.

By the way, does everyone know that you can physically remove the galley window glass from the outside, by lifting it up and rotating the top edge (which is also the hinge) out of the window jamb/trim?

On clear days this is a great solution!

And even if it starts to rain a bit, the galley counter and sinks are just inside the window, so the rain damage is pretty minimal. Probably a bad idea to leave the trailer with the glass missing, though . . .

Now, for that optional rear awning install . . .

Peter
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:27 AM   #1056
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Bob, I grabbed your quote from that other thread, as a better drawer solution would suit all the FC20's IMO. I think our pull-out pantry wire drawer, behind the door next to the fridge, disgorged one container during the trip home yesterday, and then went back in and closed the door. Weird, because I found a sole item on the floor later. Maybe we didn't latch the door well?

How about two custom bungee cords (one high and one low) across the entire bank of cabinets from the fridge to the sink corner? Four discreet little pad eyes (Up/down, L/R) with two bungee cords spanning everything, to keep all (incl. oven) from starting to open and work up a head of steam as they reach the end of their OEM throw? I will look for discreet locations for the eye pads.

We intend to boondock on some pretty rough roads eventually, and would like to guaranty that the drawers and doors stay put!

TBD.

PS -- One of the cords could actually span the fridge door, adding a level of insurance there as well. The eye pad for these could be tucked in near the little metal hooks to the right as you exit the trailer. Edit -- might as well have both cords anchor there on that small return wall, as the eye pads would be most out-of-sight!
Peter, what a bummer. I got sidetracked with the lock-set angle but will continue. Personally I think that is my direction for the P & P drawer.

AS for the PU pantry drawer, it sort of fell of my list. It only opened once...the same time with the first P&P caught the curb fiasco and has been fine since. However, every time I open it, it comes to mind. Since the door and glides are independent, my original thought was to possibly drill the glides to insert a pin so it can't slide. Kinda rube, but at least out of sight and surely KISS. Not sure if a drill will fit in the narrow cabinet but there must be some easy way to lock the glides.

I'll take another look next time I'm at Blue.

bob
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:46 AM   #1057
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Hi Marty, if you start reading at Post 228 here, there was a discussion of this. I have not checked out a 2016 model to see if they have the right hardware which could be retrofit into earlier models, nor had time to fashion something permanent. Our 2014 FC20 model does have a screen, however, so I am not sure what you will do about this aspect.

By the way, does everyone know that you can physically remove the galley window glass from the outside, by lifting it up and rotating the top edge (which is also the hinge) out of the window jamb/trim?

On clear days this is a great solution!

And even if it starts to rain a bit, the galley counter and sinks are just inside the window, so the rain damage is pretty minimal. Probably a bad idea to leave the trailer with the glass missing, though . . .

Now, for that optional rear awning install . . .

Peter
Marty I think I posted this image before but finally gave up on my searches. We generally have bikes so we only prop open the window. I simply cut a slit in a 6" section of hose insulation, open the kit window and slip it on the window bracket. This in conjunction with the FV above the kit helps keep the air flow moving. It otherwise lives in the space between the screen and the window.

Peter great reminder re the rear window. I wasn't aware and realized that when I was treating the window seals...all of a sudden the window was in my hands.

Bob
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:24 PM   #1058
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Thinking of the pantry sinks, have any of you replaced your hand-held hose faucet? Mine leaks at the faucet. The problem may just be a washer, but have never taken one of them apart, so am a bit hesitant.
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:38 PM   #1059
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I noticed they put the never-lube bearings on the 2017 20footer. I don't guess they put 16 inch wheels on it?
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:56 PM   #1060
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Thinking of the pantry sinks, have any of you replaced your hand-held hose faucet? Mine leaks at the faucet. The problem may just be a washer, but have never taken one of them apart, so am a bit hesitant.

Marty here are is a video. This is a very easy and inexpensive fix.

Note the small clip...springing away...

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...3F0A&FORM=VIRE


Bob
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