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Old 03-22-2016, 06:02 AM   #617
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I installed another similar lock (Safety 1st Tot-Lok, which appears to be MUCH less expensive) in our home's kitchen way back. Installation was a pain in the neck. It would probably work for that under-stove drawer, but I am not 100% sure. You'd have to be really careful not to drill through the front of the drawer face.

I think all of those locks have a little lever that allows you to keep them un-locked if you want, but then of course you have to remember to lock them again before you hit the road.

Instead of replacing the lock, I actually replaced the cheap drawer glides two years ago. I do not remember exactly what I used -- something full-extension that I was able to buy off the shelf at Lowe's -- but with the new slides, the existing cabinet catch has had no problem keeping the drawers closed in route. It's been two years and 8,000 miles, and I cannot remember a single incident since the trade.

BTW -- I long ago removed the tot-loks from that kitchen and probably still have them. Might be more time and trouble than it's worth, but happy to see what I've got left over.
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:41 PM   #618
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Thanks all.

Wild Child -- the DAR park is supposed to open in May on schedule.

CruizinDux -- looking forward to what you find Bob, and your thoughts on the possible need for two-handed operation.

mazoolah -- is that a commercially available bug screen unit, or did you fabricate it?

Thanks Marty, that video with Patrick is what sold us on the FC20. He is a great contact at Colonial and had shown me many RV's and trailers through the years. I felt bad that the one we bought came from another dealer (on sale though!).

Thanks teagues. Bad knees and less flexibility incline me to find a catch or stop that works, although I would prefer to get new slides. If you remember the brand you used, please advise. I have used Accurides in building, but am not sure if their "catch/hold" function is strong enough for trailer use?


Hopefully we just had our last snow here in the NE, and we can summerize the 20-footer!

Peter
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:39 PM   #619
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[OTRA15; Here is the basic lock referenced in that article: Set of 5 locks and 2 magnetic "keys" for $37.

There is another model ("RL" in the stock number) which lets you defeat the locking mechanism to use without the magnetic "key" -- for instance during a camping weekend. It would be a drag to HAVE to use the magnetic key every time you want to open the drawer IMO. This unit has a different geometry which may or may not work on that lower drawer and cabinet face frame. TBD.]

Peter maybe I missed it but these look the same, both having the override (red delio that flips up). One is a single (201 with key optional??) and the other is a set of 5 with 2 keys. If that’s the case, it’s not two handed except at arrival and departure.

The Mf’r website only shows the 101 model http://www.rev-a-shelf.com/p-192-cab...cessories.aspx Check out the install pdf at the above link (I-RLTL-0615.pdf )…tho this link seems to work for a direct download.

Thoughts; mounts on the inside of the drawer face or the inside of the panel below. I‘m not sure I understand the mechanics for the return to lock position and that concerns me. I understand the magnetic unlock function but this is based on the install of a ¾” cabinet panel. Our install with be drawer box + panel….maybe 1.25”….possibly too thick for the magnet to work ??? and that also concerns me. : ((( Needs a beta test on scrap before drilling & installing.

So…I’m with you back to the $5 cabinet lock. Looking at the dimension of the drawer fascia as I remember it…seems a long thru to catch the bottom of the drawer/stop. Thoughts?

Not sure if I’m ready for new slides yet. I think I’ll talk to a hardware vendor for the lock and possibly the traditional child proof plastic approach (or maybe Depot) …tho don’t like the 2 handed requirement. Shower curtain is looking good (still ugly but functional)

Good luck on your pending summarization.

Bob

p.s Also ordered the refer fan. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00

p.p.s. just booked a couple of nights in June on Orcas Island, WA…a Campendium post http://privatecamping.net/ Interesting approach. We’ll catch the ferry in Anacortes
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Old 03-22-2016, 02:19 PM   #620
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Ditto on concern about wood thickness affecting magnet strength. Solution here needs to be KISS IMO.

This would work -- I just looked -- if a bit funky! A slide (barrel) bolt surface mounted on cabinet face frame above the upper right corner of the drawer front, just to the right of the oven door, with a basic receiving hole drilled into the top of the drawer front.

It could be a very small nickel or SS slide barrel bolt, perhaps a marine fitting, and the bolt could not vibrate loose, as the locked position is down into the drawer front. Almost invisible hidden down there not seen as you enter the trailer and look at the kitchen area. [hidden behind oven door]

For resale of trailer, remove slide bolt and fill screw holes and bolt hole with colored wood filler. Visible but minimally offensive -- at least to these eyes.

Likin' it . . .

Keep It Simple Stu . . . !

Peter

PS -- One possibility -- the 2.5" chrome one?

Barrel Bolt

Ideally a smaller one with the base plate not sticking out like that under the barrel bolt.
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:52 AM   #621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
Thoughts; mounts on the inside of the drawer face or the inside of the panel below. I‘m not sure I understand the mechanics for the return to lock position and that concerns me. I understand the magnetic unlock function but this is based on the install of a ¾” cabinet panel. Our install with be drawer box + panel….maybe 1.25”….possibly too thick for the magnet to work ??? and that also concerns me. : ((( Needs a beta test on scrap before drilling & installing.
When you install the tot-lok, you drill a 9/32" hole from the back of the drawer front. The depth of that hole is the thickness of the drawer front minus 3/16". The lock assembly mounts in and over that hole, and they give you metal slugs to fill in the gap for thicker drawer fronts. So the thickness of the drawer front should not be a problem because the extra metal slugs will help the key's magnet field reach the lock. Getting that drill right up to 3/16" without drilling all the way through the drawer front was the real issue.

In my experience (again, I installed tot-loks in the house 9 years ago, removed them a couple of years later, and never have used them in the trailer) unlocking and opening a drawer with one of these locks is not necessarily a two-handed operation. The magnetic key should hold itself in place on the drawer front if centered right over the lock. Since you are not using these to child proof, you could just leave the key on the drawer until you are ready to hit the road.
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Old 03-23-2016, 06:16 AM   #622
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Excellent points thanks. If left on the drawer front, however, the plastic "key" will stick out as you cook at the stove, but probably recessed enough due to oven door handle protruding further.
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:10 PM   #623
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Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
. . .
p.p.s. just booked a couple of nights in June on Orcas Island, WA…a Campendium post http://privatecamping.net/ Interesting approach. We’ll catch the ferry in Anacortes
Cool destination! If I make it to the west coast later this year, the San Juans and other areas are definitely on the itinerary. Friends and family in both SeaTac and PDX.

Bob, do you have the Pioneer radio unit? Any ideas on turning off the light show other than to remove the face plate?

As discussed here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f450...em-148311.html

Any other 2014 owners have suggestions?

Thanks,

Peter
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:23 PM   #624
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[OTRA15 Solution here needs to be KISS IMO.

This would work -- I just looked -- if a bit funky! A slide (barrel) bolt surface mounted on cabinet face frame above the upper right corner of the drawer front, just to the right of the oven door, with a basic receiving hole drilled into the top of the drawer front.

It could be a very small nickel or SS slide barrel bolt, perhaps a marine fitting, and the bolt could not vibrate loose, as the locked position is down into the drawer front. Almost invisible hidden down there not seen as you enter the trailer and look at the kitchen area. [hidden behind oven door]

For resale of trailer, remove slide bolt and fill screw holes and bolt hole with colored wood filler. Visible but minimally offensive -- at least to these eyes.

Likin' it . . .
Keep It Simple Stu . . . !
Peter
PS -- One possibility -- the 2.5" chrome one?
Barrel Bolt

Ideally a smaller one with the base plate not sticking out like that under the barrel bolt.[/QUOTE]

Agreed. I think this is something I want to see in person. The one in the link looks huge for a 2.5".

http://www.lookintheattic.com/dt2bbus15.html ...maybe but a better quality version. I'd toss the bottom portion and drill for the drawer hole...maybe use an electrical cap or similar as a sleeve although they're brass. That would also help from it getting beat up over time.

As for resale, like you said putty it up...but then remove the drawer face,dial the drawer face 180 (full disclosure to seller of course) and reinstall to hide the putty unless you're on your back latching the dang drawer ; )

I think I'm still going to check HD/Lowes for the mag model as it intrigues me...especially considering the resent post by UKDUDE re depth and extra magnets.


Bob
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:27 PM   #625
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Cool destination! If I make it to the west coast later this year, the San Juans and other areas are definitely on the itinerary. Friends and family in both SeaTac and PDX.

......

Peter
We're excited and just added another night..to make the Ferry $ ($220 =/-est) worthwhile.

There are other state/county parks but we wanted shore power. For those of the grid, there are many other options.

Bob
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:19 PM   #626
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The local hardware store with a good marine supply section had this chrome barrel bolt 2 7/8" long, which looks OK IMO, and is pretty well hidden behind the edge of the oven door. A smaller brass one might be better, but will probably take more than 10 minutes to find . . . Also this one has a small base plate which does not protrude down below the bottom of the barrel, as if it is intended for a close-in installation like this IMO.

The bolt lands pretty close to the back face of the drawer front, however, so it either needs a base plate spacer, or some reinforcement on the back of the drawer front. Drilling the correct hole for the bolt in the top edge of the drawer front will come close to blowing out its backside IMO, even with a backer piece clamped temporarily to the back while the hole is drilled.

KISS and quick. Probably gonna go for it.

Life is short . . .



Standing by the dinette looking down at the oven door and at the cabinet under the sinks:

Click image for larger version

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Looking at the right edge of the oven door and the new barrel bolt:

Click image for larger version

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Old 03-23-2016, 05:36 PM   #627
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"Bob, do you have the Pioneer radio unit? Any ideas on turning off the light show other than to remove the face plate?"

On our radio, we continue to press the off button until the lights go out. Pressing momentarily will only turn radio off.
Hope this helps
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Old 03-23-2016, 06:12 PM   #628
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. . .
On our radio, we continue to press the off button until the lights go out. Pressing momentarily will only turn radio off.
Hope this helps
Thanks, but I think you have a different radio. I just went out to try your solution, and no go.

If you are interested, I just posted on that other thread, and included a download of the Pioneer user manual:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f450...em-148311.html

For starters, our On/Off button has the rather unusual label of "SRC" -- yup you read it right!

Got any new trips planned to the coast? Really appreciated your photos last fall.

Peter
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Old 03-23-2016, 06:34 PM   #629
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Bob, do you know Dave-Nancy from Eugene who posted in the Pioneer thread about the crazy instructions to get the display to go dark?
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:11 PM   #630
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Originally Posted by subfan1 View Post
"Bob, do you have the Pioneer radio unit? Any ideas on turning off the light show other than to remove the face plate?"

On our radio, we continue to press the off button until the lights go out. Pressing momentarily will only turn radio off.
Hope this helps

wow, jumping back and forth is getting confusing.


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f450...ml#post1766526

Subfan1

I have been using the turn off the demo method pg 42/42 of my manual (as noted below)

Interesting too, Peter and I have the same vintage, but his is MVH-X560BT and ours is DSX-S310BTX

Which model do you have...or is there a 3rd ; )

different models, same story!

bob

p.s Ah..Dave & Nancy, not irdoba, but AS friends cross-town Eugene. (from the other Pioneer post)
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