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Old 02-17-2016, 02:19 PM   #533
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They are talking about replacing the city water supply pressure regulator, but fewer rigid pipe connections will help IMO. When TCwheels installed an accumulator tank to smooth out the pump actions, a Shurflo OEM link for flex connections at the pumps was also posted I think.

Post 296 here has this link for the OEM flex hoses:

http://shurflo.com/rv-products/rv-ac...-silencing-kit
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Old 02-17-2016, 03:48 PM   #534
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Just noticed this 2014 FC20 for sale in Simi CA FYI:

http://www.airstreamclassifieds.com/...20-california/

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f534...ia-146906.html
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Old 02-17-2016, 04:39 PM   #535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
They are talking about replacing the city water supply pressure regulator, but fewer rigid pipe connections will help IMO. When TCwheels installed an accumulator tank to smooth out the pump actions, a Shurflo OEM link for flex connections at the pumps was also posted I think.

Post 296 here has this link for the OEM flex hoses:

http://shurflo.com/rv-products/rv-ac...-silencing-kit
Peter, Gotchya.

So you think these have more dampening qualities than quality residential supply line, braided or standard?

I forgot about #296 as I was a newbie then (still am actually) and the pump wasn't bothersome until the recent maiden voyage. Now it's at the top of the to-do along with the fan swap.

bob
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Old 02-17-2016, 04:47 PM   #536
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Your welcome Bob, glad you enjoyed your stay.
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Old 02-18-2016, 03:14 AM   #537
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Peter, Gotchya.

So you think these have more dampening qualities than quality residential supply line, braided or standard?
. . .
bob
No, I would guess that they use the very same hose, which I intend to buy in longer lengths, make up end connections, and install complete circular loops (for both the pump supply and discharge lines). A loop will transmit less vibration than the shorter lines supplied by Shurflo (Pentair) IMO. Stainless washing machine flex connectors might work just fine? (with adapters TBD?)

Not positive there is room for both loops under the large drawer, but one option will be to run the discharge hose into the back storage area, and mount a new accumulator back there. TCwheels (I think) seemed to indicate that this aft location would probably work, and it is an easier place to work on from the rear of the trailer. I am not as nimble with floor-level plumbing etc. work as I used to be!
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Old 02-18-2016, 03:22 AM   #538
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Bob,

Re: sound dampening material, years ago I worked with this LV-1 material from SoundSense, and it works great. It is expensive by the roll/sheet, but I am hoping to find some suitable scraps locally. TBD. Further R&D may disclose a better material from them or another mfg..

http://www.soundsense.com/wp-content...14/07/LV-1.pdf

http://www.soundsense.com/products/acoustic-separation/

Articles: http://www.soundsense.com/about/articles/

The LV-1 material does not really need an additional air space behind it, at least I don't plan to do that. Maybe contact cement it in spots, especially at the top of each wall piece? I am guessing there is a thicker material, like they use in recording studios on the walls, which may be better, perhaps with a waffle-ly surface like your egg carton idea . . . TBD

Edit -- or like these acoustic panels?

http://www.soundsense.com/wp-content...tic-Panels.pdf

Re: drawer slides -- in another thread the OP referred to replacing the slides. I will try to locate that thread. If the drawer is adjusted correctly in the opening (and that large lower drawer does not really have to match any nearby drawer fronts etc.), I will probably add more screws to the slides (or longer ones), or use through-bolts through the drawer sides with aircraft nuts, if possible.

Peter
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Old 02-20-2016, 06:45 PM   #539
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FC 20 Freezer Capacity for the 4.0 CF Refrigerator

We are considering purchasing the FC 20 but are unsure whether the freezer compartment in the refrigerator will be sufficient. Can anyone please provide the actual dimensions of the freezer compartment? This will be our first RV and any general thoughts pro/con regarding the FC 20 would be helpful.

Thanks so much!
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:58 PM   #540
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I will check in the morning . . .

Welcome to the forum!

Peter
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Old 02-20-2016, 09:28 PM   #541
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OTRA15 - thank you! That will be a great help! We're really trying to decide on the FC 20 or the FC23. Our preference is for the FC 20 But we're concerned the freezer space available in the FC20 might be a little too small for us. We would want to take a lot of frozen meat and a few other items with us. We will be goi g to our local dealer on Monday and hopefully make a final decision and try to make a deal. ��
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Old 02-20-2016, 09:37 PM   #542
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Not sure what you mean by a lot of frozen meat, but you might consider having a 12 volt DC plug-in freezer in your tow vehicle, which also works with 110 volt AC? The difference between the 20' and 23' AS trailer freezers will be insignificant IMO. There was a recent thread here about using dry ice in a good quality cooler (Pelican/Yeti), and this route might be a good add-on to the trailer's fridge/freezer.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f382...od-146746.html

There are posts about dry ice, super coolers and plug-in cooler/freezers, which have also been discussed on many threads. [see the search link in the toolbar above]

Good luck at the dealer. Please keep us updated.

Peter
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:25 PM   #543
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CanonFan,,,Darn, I was at the AS this afternoon winterizing as it's supposed to be 28 on Monday. If I make it back tomorrow I'll measure and post.

However as we just got back from a 19 day maiden voyage where we bought a regular bag of ice to 1) chill it down quicker and 2) for cocktails he first night in Pismo. The unit cooled quickly and the bag pretty much filled the space (H & W) with maybe enough room at the end (L) for a whole chicken. The freezer got down to temp much quicker than the refer, and the bag remained frozen for the entire trip.

Like Peter suggested re the remote unit, I would agree as it sounds like your planing on more than a few lbs of burger and some steaks...sounds to me like you need a bigger... boat regardless of 23 vs 20.

bob
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:40 PM   #544
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What we do is remove the meats or chicken or anything else from store packaging and place what we will eat at a time and put in zip lock bags. We freeze packages flat at home and this way we are able to fit more food in our small freezer. We are able to get 10 to 14 days without having to buy main foods. This is for two people.
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:56 PM   #545
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and
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Bob,

Re: sound dampening material, years ago I worked with this LV-1 material from SoundSense, and it works great. It is expensive by the roll/sheet, but I am hoping to find some suitable scraps locally. TBD. Further R&D may disclose a better material from them or another mfg..

The LV-1 material does not really need an additional air space behind it, at least I don't plan to do that. Maybe contact cement it in spots, especially at the top of each wall piece? I am guessing there is a thicker material, like they use in recording studios on the walls, which may be better, perhaps with a waffle-ly surface like your egg carton idea . . . TBD

Edit -- or like these acoustic panels?

Peter
Peter after a 2pm realization today that I need to winterize before my warranty appointment on Tuesday, I had time as the compressor was running, to check out the pump layout. The pump fox lines certainly don't look any different than residential so I dropped Pentair a note tonight asking what the difference is if any in the kit vs standard install.

The pump sure sounded quieter with the compressor running ; ) I think I'll try the ensolite pad under the pump and also maybe the line hold down straps and maybe the lines as well...I suspect there is vibration with anything that touches or is connected to the floor. I was at the big box today and looked at their sound deadening board...basically a loose fiber board, (probably from Fiberboard ) designed to go between studs and sheet rock. I'm thinking side walls and maybe the bottom of the drawer....depending on clearance. Cheap and easy to work with.

Just Googled SDB this PEX product popped up

http://cdn.opentip.com/Electronics/A...tm_content=PEX basic egg catron stuff.

or

https://jet.com/product/detail/58446...nshoo_clickid_

The second one looks like the ticket...4 mm thickness. Sounds like the spec you mentioned.


[OTRA15 Re: drawer slides -- in another thread the OP referred to replacing the slides. I will try to locate that thread. If the drawer is adjusted correctly in the opening (and that large lower drawer does not really have to match any nearby drawer fronts etc.), I will probably add more screws to the slides (or longer ones), or use through-bolts through the drawer sides with aircraft nuts, if possible.]


The drawer should have held but I remember pulling up to our house to load the bikes and catching the corner of the go-round curb. It basically pulled out both screws on the rear drawer side from the plywood drawer end....the side that was repaired once as the latch mechanism was broken. Regardless of warranty repairs or my dime, I think I'll follow with removing the face and going with two small countersunk bolts thru the end of the drawer, then reinstall the drawer face. I'm also going to figure out some brace/locking mechanism as this is the pot/pans drawer and with the weight, can see this happening again...drawer flying inboard until it its the stops...the stops don't need the stress.

Bob
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Old 02-21-2016, 04:53 AM   #546
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Thanks Bob,

On the sound dampening material, I think the magic words in the LV-1 product description are "loaded mass" which refers to a layer of dense heavy material bonded within layers of lighter foam-y material (as I understand it). It is the density of that layer which will not move much when a sound wave hits it -- think of it like a lead stereo speaker membrane? -- that deadens the sound transmission IMO. That SoundSense site has highly engineered products which work in my experience.

Know any recording studios in Eugene you could visit? They might be able to recommend a wall product, although it might be too think. A layer of something in the bottom of that errant bottom drawer could cut down on sound AND keep the pots from sliding and creating a "head of steam" on their own which increases the force of the pots hitting the front of the drawer, and . . . you get the drift . . .

Ditto on the need for some mechanical "lock" for that bottom drawer just to be sure. No response yet on that other thread about the replacement drawer slides he used. I will measure up the gap from cabinet to drawer side -- there must be a good slide that will fit. KV, Accuride, that German brand (forget right now), but something must fit. How about a custom ply/cardboard box which would sit on the floor and just barely fit between that bottom drawer face, and the bathroom door? It could live as a storage box under the bed, and maybe double as a way to raise the floor height in front of the throne?

Flex connectors for the pump -- please let us know what the mfg. says.

A brief overnight low of 28 F should not affect your plumbing IMO unless there is a strong wind. Draining the water tank and opening the low point drains should be enough IMO, maybe blow out the lines, but it does not seem worth it to do a full winterization including taking the pump lines off, and using AF in the drain traps. Of course if you have the time and inclination . . .
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