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Old 10-28-2015, 09:05 AM   #351
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Thanks Bigventure I saw your post on the other thread, and am looking forward to checking this out soon. Many thanks for the heads up!

Not sure if you read my recent post about making up new pump footpads using felt and mouse pad washers, plus loose hold down screws, but it seems to have made a big difference.

Thanks again,

Peter
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:47 AM   #352
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Being a newbie I haven't had the chance to explore and ID much less comprehend all of the systems as yet. I contacted JCtr and requested a plumbing plan with all the individual details. AS is no different than anyone else building something of significant volume, and I there must be a good set plans somewhere. They responded the following day with a pdf'd set of plans and details...19 pages worth! It certainly helped accelerate my learning curve as I'm getting ready for my first winterization this weekend. Pretty comprehensive. They should have it posted on their website. They also sent two pdf's of winterization guides (Schu's News and another updated version with pictures, I also believe from Dave Schumann).

Bob
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:22 AM   #353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCwheels View Post
I'm totally in with letting the thread wander around - with the focal point being our 20s.
Thanks.

By the way, do you know if Hagerty Insurance in TC insures classic Airstreams? Jay is looking for coverage apparently:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f351...ml#post1703410

Perhaps you could chime in on this thread if you know? I met one of the owners back in the 90's but have not insured with them. Thanks.

Jay's main thread is about maneuvering his new (old) AS is here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-s-142909.html

Thanks.
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Old 10-29-2015, 06:05 AM   #354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Thanks.

By the way, do you know if Hagerty Insurance in TC insures classic Airstreams? Jay is looking for coverage apparently:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f351...ml#post1703410

Perhaps you could chime in on this thread if you know? I met one of the owners back in the 90's but have not insured with them. Thanks.

Jay's main thread is about maneuvering his new (old) AS is here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-s-142909.html

Thanks.

That's a great question. Coincidently, I was over there last week and could have inquired...I'll check and then connect with Jay.
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Old 10-29-2015, 06:07 AM   #355
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Here is the original photo of my pump and filter which I had difficulty posting. Thank you to the Support team and moderators for clearing up the problem yesterday!

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The 1x4 valance/kick is the blonde wood at the bottom.

Here is a so-so shot of the new footpads/dampeners, with the OEM rubber feet visible above the felt furniture glides, with 2 layers of mouse pad material on the floor. [you can double click on the photo to bring up an enlargement]

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Note that the screw heads are somewhat above the pump's cast metal feet and washers, to minimize vibration being sent down into the floor through the screw shafts. The screws are very tight in their pilot holes, so it is unlikely IMO they could vibrate up just from road action. Also, the intake and discharge hoses are clamped to the floor, so the pump is actually pretty well locked (loosely) in place.

The extra wiring was added as an extension cord, because one of the crimp connectors had pulled out when I was juggling the pump around last week. The new length of wire will permit moving the pump 6-8" freely if I need to do more down here.

I will put the large drawer back and check out the pressure adjustment mentioned recently, when I get around to it! A test run yesterday seemed like a big improvement with reduced noise levels.
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Old 10-29-2015, 09:18 AM   #356
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Fresh Drain Relocated.
Mounted brass ball valve next to other drains. Removed some rivets in panel cover of tank .Bend back enough to gain access to connector on tank. Put hose/clamp on this and ran thru hole ,where plastic valve was. Run hose to panel where other drains are.Mount valve & connect hose. Push back panel and re-rivet .
Now drain is easy to access.No need to get under trailer. (Orig post did not get on this thread,got lost ?)
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Old 10-29-2015, 09:50 AM   #357
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Thanks. You posted in the Two Water Drains? thread I think. Useful in both spots! Any chance of a photo of the knu location?
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:02 PM   #358
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Will try to get tomorrow.
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Old 10-30-2015, 08:25 AM   #359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigventure View Post
[snip]
There is an adjustment screw on the front of the pump. It's on the pressure switch. They can come loose during travels. All you need to do is tweak the screw one way or the other. Higher pressure equal shorter cycles.
[snip]
On our 2014 FC20, the pressure switch is on the right end of the pump as you see it under the oven, looking toward the curb side of the coach (see recent photo in Post 355 here).

This shot shows my left hand reaching into the pump space, over the 1x4 kick/valance, with the red ballpoint pen pointing to the allen-head adjustment screw (I believe -- see YouTube video link below). This shot is thus looking toward the coach's front:

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In my opinion this switch should be adjusted ONLY if the pump is cycling on and off during a shower, or something like this. It has nothing to do with reducing the actual noise level of the pump (think decibels). Again, the YouTube video covers this.

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Old 10-30-2015, 08:58 AM   #360
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I agree with OTRA15. Thanks for those photos and the follow up to my suggestions.

Some where going to install a accumulator tank, when I made the pressure switch suggestion.

Some of your pumps are variable speed units. My 2011 had one. They sound very different than the others. They start off slow and build up speed. Some times they will just lub dub along.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:56 AM   #361
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Originally Posted by Bigventure View Post
I agree with OTRA15. Thanks for those photos and the follow up to my suggestions.

Some where going to install a accumulator tank, when I made the pressure switch suggestion.

Some of your pumps are variable speed units. My 2011 had one. They sound very different than the others. They start off slow and build up speed. Some times they will just lub dub along.
It is funny, as your suggestions about the mouse pad material and loosely tightened screws through the feet, were exactly what I had said I might do in an earlier post or two. When I read your more recent post, I thought, "OK must be a good idea!"

I still think the HVAC contractor I know will have some specialized "feet" for this, but I am not sure if we have the clear height under the large drawer for a more complex (read "taller") system. The recent work helped a lot. I think some pipe insulation around various runs to and from the pump will help, especially if I use new larger clamps to tie everything to the floor again (with the pipe insulation WITHIN the new clamps).

Ditto for adding some sound deadening sheet goods here and there, as a lot of the remaining noise is simply a fairly low pump noise echoing all around under the oven IMO, and in the rear storage area, which has the diamond plate floor in it.

Talk about a perfect space for reverberation . . . !

PS -- I have been reading about the variable speed pumps. TBD until next year I guess . . .
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Old 11-01-2015, 03:53 PM   #362
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Fresh water drain modification

Here's pictures of my modification to our 20'.
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Old 11-02-2015, 02:54 AM   #363
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Thanks for the photos knunut, very handy set up!

Please forgive a couple of small tweak suggestions --

You may want to stow that red handle in the trailer (and have an extra?) when we are clear of cold weather, as it is a very tempting red flag for someone to play with in a public parking lot, etc. IMO. In construction, we used to take the handles off ball valves all the time. Also, maybe close up the exposed end of the valve with a brass plug?
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Old 11-02-2015, 03:26 AM   #364
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Knunut - Your hose to the outside of the trailer is a great idea for convenience. I wonder whether the hose could just be attached around the white plastic drain valve stub after hacking off the valve itself instead of working inside the metal box that contains the fresh water tank (and having to unrivet and re-rivet). Any comments on that idea?
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