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Kd9 · 07-23-2011, 09:16 PM

I'm sorry to post such a silly question, but our 30' Serenity was just delivered WITH NO MANUALS and NO INSTRUCTIONS.

I managed to open the door and manually lift the front roof vent, but I can't open any of the windows. I unlocked the silver hooks at the bottom of several windows, but no matter what I do with the handles in the slides to the side, the window doesn't move. What am I doing wrong? Thank you in advance for your help.

sempi2 · 07-23-2011, 09:22 PM

Are you serious? A 2011 without a manual? Who did you buy from? If a dealer contact them and require that they get you one, otherwise if private party I'm sure a 2011 manual should be fairly easy to obtain from a dealer.
PS welcome to the forums

Kd9 · 07-23-2011, 09:34 PM

Supposedly Some Other Dude was supposed to put the manuals in the trailer...and didn't. They will be overnighted, probably on Monday, but meanwhile we are here in Las Vegas in 100+ degree heat and we need some ventilation.

The lying culprits of this bad experience are Skyriver RV in Pismo Beach, California.

sempi2 · 07-23-2011, 09:36 PM

Does the air work? Also do you have a fantastic fan? They help.

**DKB_SATX** · 07-23-2011, 10:21 PM

The windows stick to the seals. Make sure you've both popped open the silver handles AND turned them 90 degrees so the metal part "blade" is completely out of the slot in the metal tab that's attached to the window itself. Then go outside and gently pry the window away from its seal, then you can open them with the openers on the inside. It's even better if you have someone inside and outside to work together.

My old trailer with new seals has a couple of windows that stick if I haven't opened them recently.

steverino · 07-23-2011, 10:26 PM

We had the same problem with the windows on our new 2010. The windows tend to stick to the rubber gaskets when new. What I did was - unlock the windows, and from the outside, very gently pry the window open along the bottom edge with a plastic putty knife. With very little force it should pop loose. Once open, lubricate the rubber gasket with silicone spray, wipe off excess.

Even when free, opening the windows with the levers from inside is tricky --- takes practice to apply force upward on the levers at the correct angle.... Good luck

Steve

Kd9 · 07-24-2011, 01:10 AM

Thank you all. We did try with my husband outside and me inside, but I think a plastic putty knife will do the trick. I didn't know opening a window would take so much work.

Kd9 · 07-24-2011, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sempi2

Does the air work? Also do you have a fantastic fan? They help.

Who knows what works and what doesn't? No manuals mean no clue about how to turn anything on or hook anything up. We have never had an RV before this. I thought at least we could open a window. We did manage to open the door and the roof vent for some ventilation (even without the fan going).

Kd9 · 07-24-2011, 12:02 PM

Thank you for the window advice. A credit card (and both of us working on it) did the trick. Windows are now open. We also decided to try and hook up the electrical system, so we had on lights and a fan. We were not going to go hog wild and try the A/C or the refrigerator, but it was nice to find out which switches turned on which lights.

That still leaves the stove and oven. We turned on one burner, but it did not light (or even have a gas smell). Maybe there a propane switch we need to turn first. We know the propane is full as the control panel says so. There is also the water system and water heater to become familiar with but we have done enough without knowing what we are doing.

This afternoon we lock it up for traveling and haul it over to a local covered storage place. The HOA would really be upset if she and the TV spent two nights in front of our house. Though it might come back again when we get the manuals. So much for heading out on the open road this week.

murreywalker · 07-24-2011, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kd9

I'm sorry to post such a silly question, but our 30' Serenity was just delivered WITH NO MANUALS and NO INSTRUCTIONS.

I managed to open the door and manually lift the front roof vent, but I can't open any of the windows. I unlocked the silver hooks at the bottom of several windows, but no matter what I do with the handles in the slides to the side, the window doesn't move. What am I doing wrong? Thank you in advance for your help.

If you are familiar with PDFs, here is where you can download manuals for your trailer.

Airstream, Inc :: Trailer Manuals

smhx4 · 07-24-2011, 01:22 PM

Post some pics of that new serenity......pleeeeeese.

We are les than two weeks from getting ours. Can't wait!

jdalrymple · 07-24-2011, 02:05 PM

As mentioned above, get a can of 100% silicone spray. It's available at any auto parts store. Spray on the rubber gasket and wipe with a rag. It will fix the stuck windows.

Not really much to turn the rest of the equipment on, if you like.

Enjoy your new trailer, and welcome the forums!

Michigander · 07-24-2011, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steverino

We had the same problem with the windows on our new 2010. The windows tend to stick to the rubber gaskets when new...............
Steve

The electric vents on our 2005 AS LYG MH, when new, frequently stuck closed when not opened for a long time, especially in the heat. It wasn't until I read this thread that I now know what the problem was. Thanks for the posting.

I can sense your frustration with learning about all of the systems in your new TT, especially since this your first ever experience.

Beware, that you must have an electrical hookup with enough amperage (at least 20, preferably 30 amps) to run your A/C. If you plug into a 15 amp circuit, the circuit breaker in your house will blow as soon as you turn on the A/C.

If you plug into a 20 amp circuit, you will probably be able to get the A/C to work, but once you start turning other things on you might blow the circuit breaker.

Blowing the breaker in you home will not hurt the A/C, so don't get upset.

As far as the stove top is concerned, make sure to first open the valves on top of the tanks mounted in front of the trailer. Propane tends to diffuse out of the supply line when traveling, so you often need to turn on the burner until you smell gas (only the first time after settling in), then ignite it. Do this with open windows, and no other flame going.

Good luck, and welcome to the forums!

Kd9 · 07-25-2011, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdalrymple

As mentioned above, get a can of 100% silicone spray. It's available at any auto parts store. Spray on the rubber gasket and wipe with a rag. It will fix the stuck windows.

Not really much to turn the rest of the equipment on, if you like.

Enjoy your new trailer, and welcome the forums!

Thank you. On our list of To Dos today, along with TV and TT registration with the DMV.

Kd9 · 07-25-2011, 12:08 PM

Quote:

As far as the stove top is concerned, make sure to first open the valves on top of the tanks mounted in front of the trailer. Propane tends to diffuse out of the supply line when traveling, so you often need to turn on the burner until you smell gas (only the first time after settling in), then ignite it. Do this with open windows, and no other flame going.

Great advice. Thank you.

Kd9 · 07-26-2011, 09:11 AM

Well, we now have the manuals (and remote controls) and we might as well have stacks of old newspapers for all the usefulness that is there. I wrote documentation for years and this is one of the WORST manuals I have ever seen (though some of the appliance instructions come close).

The first mention of any interior systems is on page B-13 describing a pre-travel check list.

Quote:

1. Turn off the water pump switch.

Water pump switch!!!! We have a water pump? Why? Where is it? And where is the switch? How will I know if it is really off? How do I turn it on again? Searching through the index I find on page E-4 that the water pump switch is on the monitor panel. Monitor panel? Where is that? What does it look like? Aha, page E-3 says the Water Heater switch is on the lavatory wall! I would be punching the monitor panel for a long time before reading page E-3.

These are just small examples of why this "manual" is useless. Take a look at a television or radio or camera manual. Notice that the FIRST THING that you usually see is a diagram. All the buttons and switches are labeled with a short description of their function. Then the instructions start with the very, very basic functions, like this is the button you use to turn the set on. Now knowledgeable people will skip ahead to the sections of instructions they are not familiar with. Good manuals can even have the first section clearly labeled "Brand New Owners". Then the start should be NOT Pre-Travel Checklist listing unhooking things that were never hooked up in the first place, but paragraphs like "Here's how to unlock the door" and "Here's how to unfold the steps" Yeah, pretty basic, but that's why they have manuals in the first place. And I have found NO diagrams about the LP cylinder valve. Page F-1 describes it's operation, but there is no picture and no instructions about how to open and close it. There is a very good picture about using the Change-Over Lever including a directional arrow on page F-3. I wish all examples were as good as that one. And I am not intending that they document all the bells and whistles of every onboard system. It is perfectly reasonable to say "Refer to the Dometic Microwave manual for further instruction (if installed)".

By the way, the credit card trick to unstick the windows works like a charm, but might void your Airstream warranty. Page D-3

Quote:

Window seals that become stuck to the jamb should be released by a qualified technician trained in the procedure. Do not force, pry or apply great pressure to open the window. Failure to heed this warning may cause the window to shatter and/or cause personal injury.

**DKB_SATX** · 07-26-2011, 10:59 AM

Well, Airstream's recommendation on the window is just to protect them from the hamfisted types who'd take a 3' crow bar to the window to pry it open, shattering the window and deforming the frame at the same time. We both know those people exist.

The way a new-trailer delivery is SUPPOSED to go is that your dealer shows you through the trailer and demonstrates how all the systems work. Some dealers have a "terraport" and let new owners set up there for a night to get the hang of it, etc. It sounds like your dealer took the "here's your trailer, sorry about the manuals we'll get those eventually, thanks for the big check!" approach, which isn't all that helpful.

This doesn't excuse the poor manuals, but since they're not making millions of the things and selling them through Amazon.com they don't have dedicated tech writers and editors, probably someone with several other responsibilities throws the manual together. I have the manual for my 36-year-old trailer, and the previous owner walked me through how everything works when I was inspecting/buying it. That made a huge difference, and I wasn't spending anything close to what you did so I think your dealer should have given you a thorough walkthrough demonstration.

rluhr · 07-26-2011, 11:59 AM

If you bought that trailer new, you should have received a free copy of "The Newbies Guide To Airstreaming." I wrote it specifically because of the problems with the owners manuals that you describe. If you didn't get the book, talk to the dealer or ask Airstream for a replacement.

Gene · 07-26-2011, 11:59 AM

You should have gotten manuals and other paperwork on everything in the trailer. The Airstream manual is usually a bit out of date because they change things during the model year. Our stuff came in a fancy carrying thing. Not every manual was there, but most where. Many can be downloaded from the internet.

They are not written by people who are concerned with anyone understanding them.

Yes, you have a water pump. There should be a panel (about 4" x 5") that tells you how full your tanks are (it doesn't work very well no matter how many times it is adjusted) and the pump switch. The pump is used when you are using water from the fresh water tank, but not when the trailer is hooked up to city water.

Gene

funkill · 07-26-2011, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kd9

Well, we now have the manuals (and remote controls) and we might as well have stacks of old newspapers for all the usefulness that is there. I wrote documentation for years and this is one of the WORST manuals I have ever seen (though some of the appliance instructions come close).

I couldn't agree more. I also have service manuals for my trailer and although they are very detailed and useful for troubleshooting/repair, they certainly don't help anyone understand how to operate or maintain the systems (let alone familiarize them with RV ettiquite).

Best thing you can do is go to a local Rally!!!

I have learned soooooo much about all of this from the peeps at rallies - and they have a lot of fun too!

Maybe you can even find someone to give you a demonstration -- check out the box on the bottom right of the main page of this forum marked "Airstream Inspectors" (volunteers from this site) and fill in your location. It should certainly be easy to get someone to show you the ropes! We all love to talk Airstream.

Laura