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Old 06-02-2013, 06:10 PM   #15
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Has anyone with a 2012 International Signature experienced their stove exhaust fan and light failing? I'll be cooking and running the fan for about 20 minutes and all of a sudden, everything shuts down. I then am told I need to replace the fuse. I'm going on my third fuse...

I've never had to do this on my 2006 Safari (ran the fan upwards of 4 hours while roasting a turkey) and cooking for well over two years.

Thanks in advance for any input.
I had the same issue, replaced the fuse and it happened again about 6 months later. So I put a little bit of tin foil on one end of a new fuse just to lengthen the fuse a tad and it seems to be working just fine. I think the poor contact was messing up the continuity of the circuit. Hope the electricians out there don't freak out too much. If I am going to blow the thing up, please let me know.
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:15 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jim Flower View Post
I had the same issue, replaced the fuse and it happened again about 6 months later. So I put a little bit of tin foil on one end of a new fuse just to lengthen the fuse a tad and it seems to be working just fine. I think the poor contact was messing up the continuity of the circuit. Hope the electricians out there don't freak out too much. If I am going to blow the thing up, please let me know.
Since I haven't seen the fuse holder, usually there is a spring at one end.. a slight 'tug' on the spring if done carefully could stretch it a bit, thereby gaining "contact force"... similar to shimming out the fuse as you did, with a reduced likelyhood of shorting something out..

If dealer won't fix it in Texas, go Lemon Law?.. or "field engineer" the sucker with a better, US made fuse.. the electrons will only be confused for a little while..
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:02 PM   #17
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Since I haven't seen the fuse holder, usually there is a spring at one end.. a slight 'tug' on the spring if done carefully could stretch it a bit, thereby gaining "contact force"... similar to shimming out the fuse as you did, with a reduced likelyhood of shorting something out..

If dealer won't fix it in Texas, go Lemon Law?.. or "field engineer" the sucker with a better, US made fuse.. the electrons will only be confused for a little while..
It was a "duh" moment for me. Happens too often. Of course that is the fix. I saved the bit of tin foil for some other foolish fix. Now works as good as, well, new.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:34 AM   #18
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There are two other current threads on this same issue. If Airstream is suggesting to increase the fuse to 5A, why are the still issuing new trailers with the old fuse? Almost everyone with the Baraldi range hood is having this problem.

I'm going to call them today and ask for new fuses. At the moment we have been managing by not running the light and the fan at the same time.
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Old 10-12-2013, 04:13 PM   #19
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anybody have a part number for the 5 amp fuses?
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Old 01-25-2014, 09:32 PM   #20
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You can get a 5 amp fuse at radio shack. I had the same problem in my 28' International.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:40 AM   #21
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Auto Parts stores have fuses. Wal-Mart does too. The new style fuses are color coded.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:46 AM   #22
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I don't have the part number, but it's a small thin old-fashioned glass tube fuse. Bring the old one to Radio Shack and you can get the 5 (not 3) from them. My dealer said AS knows its a mistake but hasn't communicated anything about it.
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:14 PM   #23
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Anyone experienced difficulty with the bulbs in this range hood failing frequently?

I have replaced the 3.15A fuse with a 5A - since then the fuse hasn't tripped. But the bulbs burn out monthly.
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:37 PM   #24
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I took a look at the ratings for the vent hood on the manufactures label sticker. The 3.15A fuse is exactly at the load for the fan and lights. The hood is rated for a much higher power draw, and the 5 amp fuse is below the max rating of the hood and will provide the current required to run the fan and lights without blowing.
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Old 03-05-2014, 05:41 PM   #25
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....I am also considering removing the two very hot (and power hungry) halogen bulb pods from the Baraldi range hood and replace them with something else...like maybe MODERN LEDs. I (like many of you) have blown the fuse -- which I was able to replace -- and now have a spare. This is not a high quality piece of equipment, I might add. I heard an awful noise the last time I used the fan, and found that the fan had come off the motor shaft. The motor was running and the fan was hanging around loose. Diasassembly, repair and reassembly. My guess is that the folks that assembled it must have had a Chianti break or something....
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Old 03-05-2014, 06:26 PM   #26
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Strangely, I just answered a PM about this. If you replace the halogen with the LED replacement, it will last much, much longer, be cooler to work under, use less power when boondocking, and not blow fuses at the drop of a hat.
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:48 AM   #27
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if you touch the glass part of a halogen bulb the oil from your skin will cause the bulb to burn out fairly quickly. i wonder if steam/oil from cooking would do the same thing?.
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Old 03-09-2014, 11:11 AM   #28
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Yes, the steam/grease theory makes complete sense. I am searching for LED replacements.
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