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Ron A · 12-17-2014, 05:47 AM

I know it's discouraging and I hope the problem can be solved. For me I've learned a great deal by reading this trend.

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dkottum · 12-17-2014, 08:25 AM

A properly designed, built and loaded trailer should able to be towed at any speed without crutches, if there are no external forces such as side winds, wind gusts, passing trucks, uneven road surfaces and the tendency for the unbraked trailer trying to overtake the truck on descending grades.

But these forces are nearly always present, pushing and sometimes holding the trailer out of alignment with the truck as we move about the country. Severe forces of this type can start dangerous and increasing oscillations of the trailer behind the truck.

That is where the crutches, sway control or sway elimination devices, become a necessity. So I believe there are at least two considerations in this question. Begin with a properly designed and set up trailer and truck, and install a sway control system that can keep your trailer towing experience within a level of comfort you are satisfied with.

xrvr · 12-17-2014, 12:49 PM

Are the WD bars adjusted exactly the same? Is the hitch head bent? Finally, is the receiver in good condition, not hairline cracked, etc? Jim

Jerry in VT · 12-18-2014, 07:02 PM

Answered in my initial response.

Jerry in VT

Jerry in VT · 12-18-2014, 07:16 PM

Ciao, Colin,

DEO GRATIAS!!! A comprehensive response. (Not that others have not been helpful, but this post is especially well detailed.) Thank you, Colin, for your comments. I've modified my course of thought due these posts, and yours fits most exactly into the line of thought I've developed. It is a fine combo of what I learned myself and what is out there to be added to my info. I'll certainly keep your comments close as I prepare to "save" my camper this spring, before having to go another route with it.
Again, THANK YOU for taking the time to post such a thoughtful comment.
Happy Holidays,

Jerry in VT

xrvr · 12-18-2014, 08:19 PM

What I meant is each bar exactly adjusted with same number of links. Trailer could be level and this not be true, causing sway. Jim

Ray Eklund · 12-21-2014, 07:24 PM

Jerry in VT. I too, am impressed with Paula and Colin H. for their help and information. Both included enough information that it would narrow down your problem(s).

Have you had anyone, even at the dealership, hook up and tow your trailer? Let them do a live run with it. If it is not the trailer, it will be obvious at that point. If it sways... let them fix it. Have the dealer use their hitch and YOURS, if theirs works fine.

If the trailer does not sway, then it is your vehicle. At least you have taken half of the problem out of question. Then you have to figure out why?

Colin H. is in New York. I am sure he does Airstream warranty work if it is the trailer at fault.

You have done a fine job what is not the problem or cause. I like to keep things simple at first to narrow down where and what. If the trailer tows well behind another tow vehicle...it becomes the tow vehicle's issue.

I had a 2006 23 foot with the rear bed, so really cannot comment on your front bed model. So I really am not giving you any more information than has already answered any questions I would have with a problem like yours. These experienced people ask questions to respond. I can understand since you are not a trailer mechanic, it is difficult to provide information that could eventually solve your problem.

I would contact Jackson Center and have them connect you with a local axle distributor and find out WHO can check our the axles, first. There is one outside of Castle Rock, Colorado... so you have no doubt several.

I am sure if you knew what the issue was, it would be repaired right away. But not knowing is the worst position to find yourself. Everyone means well, but I can tell you are bit bothered over even having this happening to you. I am sure interested in your finding the problem. It will add to the Forum very much.

1Boyscout · 02-04-2015, 04:12 PM

I wonder if he has changed tow vehicles???
I had this problem towing with a Suburban, until I changed tires and put LT tires on her. Never had another problem. There are too many variables not mentioned in his post. Tire pressure, tires, length of tow vehicle, hitch, weather, winds, etc..

KWN306 · 02-05-2015, 01:36 PM

I'm with "1Boyscout"; I have found that tires on the TV and the trailer and the proper air pressure being in both to be the driving force to stopping sway on any trailer if the tow vehicle and trailer are on the same plain (level.)

When I'm towing what ever the max pressure is on the sidewall of the TV and trailer, that's what the tires get.

chgcarroll · 08-30-2016, 08:00 AM

This exactly describes the issue we are having with our 23FB Flying Cloud did you get this resolved and if so could you share your solution? We get dog wag sway.

PKI · 08-30-2016, 09:37 AM

Might send them a personal message.

There is a difference between sway and wiggle. Most trailers exhibit wiggle when a truck or bus passes from behind and the bow wave upsets the back, then the front, and finaly the tow vehicle as it moves past. The wiggle is somewhat disconcerting, but goes away with the pass and is only a problem if the driver over corrects. Sway starts from some upset condition or as speed increases and is a side to side movement that get more and more severe with each cycle. Usually requires trailer braking to control combined with speed reduction.

Unless there is a frame or axle alignment issue, sway is usually a weight distribution problem associated with gear loading and hitch setup. Tow vehicle and trailer tire pressure, as well as tire stiffness, can contribute or help control the issue. The same is true with respect to hitch type and TV size. As noted in several thread comments, the trailer must be level to load both trailer axles equally.

You might also consider starting your own thread on this issue with a detailed description of your rig including hitch type and tires/pressure, the road conditions when you get sway, the wind levels you experience, the speed you travel, and what you have done to address the problem.

Good luck with your research. Pat

Jerry in VT · 09-04-2016, 07:21 AM

This is a reply I sent to Chgcaroll (I think that is the correct person), and it may be of some assistance to your friend. Unfortunately, I misspent my message to Chgcaroll, and s/he probably never got it. Better luck to you.

:
Ciao, Chgcaroll (I hope I got your name right),
First, let me make two comments reflecting on what PKI (again, I hope I got it right) wrote. You are prey to email: that is, you write a too-short, crytic message. We need plenty more details. I second what PKI wrote: "a detailed description of your rig including hitch type and tires/pressure, the road conditions when you get sway, the wind levels you experience, the speed you travel, and what you have done to address the problem." These details will go a LONG way to supporting the answers we give you. A second point PKI made that hit the mark is this: "sway is usually a weight distribution problem." This is where I begin to answer you by explaining my situation - which might not automatically synch with yours. The 23ft FB has the door in the rear. To accommodate this, its axles are set forward a bit. (I learned this from CanAm, I believe.) Moving the axles forward LIGHTENS the hitch weight. In order for the TV to control the trailer, there must be a certain "drag effect," if you will. This is accomplished when the tongues weight of the trailer is 10% - 15% of the trailer's gross vehicle weight. On our 23ft, this would be about 600 lbs. As I recall, the actual hitch weight was in the 400-lb range. Major problem #1. Major problem #2: we towed our 23-ft with a 2011 Nissan Titan. A fine TV by my standards. But we had the 4-door model, which meant the bed of the truck was short, about 5-ft. So when I loaded it with camp gear, I believe too much weight was behind the rear axle - a bad idea. I aused some lack of stability towing. Major problem #3: Tires. We were using "P" or Passenger grade tires. Whereas this tire works fine in other TV situations, it was a problem for us. The sidewalls are too weak, and they flexed too much, and that added to the side-to-side effect of sway. We installed 8-ply truck tires, and that made a difference. Finally, because our sway problem was actually life-threatening at times - not just with passing trucks, but with wind, downhills, and more - we took it to CanAm in London, Ontario, Canada. They work magic with TVs and trailers. They welded braces onto the truck's 2-inch receiver, they installed a second anti-sway bar to the one I had already installed, and they reset the pitch of the ball b/c our receiver had gotten bent downward a bit somehow. With all these modifications we could drive safely up to 65 mph - something we could never do before. All this said, a couple near us purchased our 23-ft, they tow it with a mew Toyota Tundra, and they have no problems at all. We upgraded to a 25-ft and a Tundra, and we've reached Nirvana. I hope this helps. Jerry VT

Jerry in VT · 09-04-2016, 07:24 AM

This is a reply I sent to Chgcaroll (I think that is the correct person), and it may be of some assistance to your friend. Unfortunately, I misspent my message to Chgcaroll, and s/he probably never got it. Better luck to you.

Ciao, Chgcaroll (I hope I got your name right),
First, let me make two comments reflecting on what PKI (again, I hope I got it right) wrote. You are prey to email: that is, you write a too-short, crytic message. We need plenty more details. I second what PKI wrote: "a detailed description of your rig including hitch type and tires/pressure, the road conditions when you get sway, the wind levels you experience, the speed you travel, and what you have done to address the problem." These details will go a LONG way to supporting the answers we give you.
A second point PKI made that hit the mark is this: "sway is usually a weight distribution problem." This is where I begin to answer you by explaining my situation - which might not automatically synch with yours. The 23ft FB has the door in the rear. To accommodate this, its axles are set forward a bit. (I learned this from CanAm, I believe.) Moving the axles forward LIGHTENS the hitch weight. In order for the TV to control the trailer, there must be a certain "drag effect," if you will. This is accomplished when the tongues weight of the trailer is 10% - 15% of the trailer's gross vehicle weight. On our 23ft, this would be about 600 lbs. As I recall, the actual hitch weight was in the 460-lb range. Major problem #1.
Major problem #2: we towed our 23-ft with a 2011 Nissan Titan. A fine TV by my standards. But we had the 4-door model, which meant the bed of the truck was short, about 5-ft. So when I loaded it with camp gear, I believe too much weight was behind the rear axle - a bad idea. I caused some lack of stability towing.
Major problem #3: Tires. We were using "P" or Passenger grade tires. Whereas this tire works fine in other TV situations, it was a problem for us. The sidewalls are too weak, and they flexed too much, and that added to the side-to-side effect of sway. We installed 8-ply truck tires, and that made a difference.
Finally, because our sway problem was actually life-threatening at times - not just with passing trucks, but with wind, downhills, and more - we took it to CanAm in London, Ontario, Canada. They work magic with TVs and trailers. They welded braces onto the truck's 2-inch receiver, they installed a second anti-sway bar to the one I had already installed, and they reset the pitch of the ball b/c our receiver had gotten bent downward a bit somehow. With all these modifications we could drive safely up to 65 mph - something we could never do before.
All this said, a couple near us purchased our 23-ft, they tow it with a mew Toyota Tundra, and they have no problems at all. We upgraded to a 25-ft and a Tundra, and we've reached Nirvana. I hope this helps.
If your friend wants more info, have them email me at birddog@tds.net. I don't check this forum.
Jerry VT

HD Pilot · 09-04-2016, 10:46 AM

Hey Jerry, wish I had found this Thread earlier - a TON of info to digest for sure...will have to reread many posts.

First off, I have a 2017 23FB so I think I can relate to your set up. I like you have experienced sway, especially above 65mph - not all the time, usually with wind, turns in the road, 18 wheelers passing me, bumps in the road, etc.

I am using a Blue Ox Sway Pro WD hitch with 550lb bars. I am not wanting to hijack your Thread in any way but just relating my similar "battle".

Presently I am working with Marty at BO on getting my set up dialed in. He has been great to work with and I have a new 9 hole receiver he sent to swap out the std 7 hole receiver that comes with the BO hitch. In my particular situation, I was unable to get the ball down low enough with the std 7 hole receiver to the BO recommended height in relationship with the AS receiver height.

Anyway, I am working this problem step by step like you and agree that you should not be limited to 65mph due to sway. I will add that Marty had me increase the load on the 550lb bars buy going to a higher chain link - makes the BO bars bend more, this has resulted in the sway being reduced but not eliminated. Again, this is for my situation, not yours but maybe hearing about somebody else with a 23FB helps?

Good luck, hope we both get this figured out.