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Old 08-28-2011, 04:22 PM   #1
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2011 27 FB International
Leesburg , Virginia
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27FB International Serenity

Have a few questions on the new airstream.


1. The window in the door and skylight in bathroom hallway are both "cloudy" they let light through but cant see out? I cant tell if there is a manufacturing sticker/wrapper but dont want to scratch it finding out.

2. Is the water pump supposed to run when connected to city water? Ended up with empty fresh tank leaving our first trip when i thought it was still full ad i had been using city water

3. Anybody else having QC issues? Rusty stabilizers and pads, rust on steps, the awning has broke twice once in rain (bent part of support arm) then just putting ot up the locking arm broke its claw off with almost no force


And 4. Qnyone try repositing the tongue jack. I need 2" and i could open the tailgate can it be move over so it is sideways? If i could get the tailgate down with trailer hooked up id be very happy!
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Old 08-28-2011, 05:13 PM   #2
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Greetings from the Florida Panhandle

First off, Welcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us.

As to your questions;

1. Don't know for sure on a new 27FB, but the window in our door is frosted, and not a sticker.

2. The water pump should be turned off when on city water.

3. There always seem to be some QC issues. It sounds like these things should be replaced under warranty.

4. I've not seen it done. Some hitch systems, like the Hensley and ProPride, give clearance to open the tailgate or rear hatch.

Brian
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Old 08-28-2011, 05:13 PM   #3
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East Coast , Newfoundland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 27fb2freedom
Have a few questions on the new airstream.

1. The window in the door and skylight in bathroom hallway are both "cloudy" they let light through but cant see out? I cant tell if there is a manufacturing sticker/wrapper but dont want to scratch it finding out.

2. Is the water pump supposed to run when connected to city water? Ended up with empty fresh tank leaving our first trip when i thought it was still full ad i had been using city water

3. Anybody else having QC issues? Rusty stabilizers and pads, rust on steps, the awning has broke twice once in rain (bent part of support arm) then just putting ot up the locking arm broke its claw off with almost no force

And 4. Qnyone try repositing the tongue jack. I need 2" and i could open the tailgate can it be move over so it is sideways? If i could get the tailgate down with trailer hooked up id be very happy!
I have a 27' international Signature. Here are my 2 cents:

1. Both the skylights, the outside door and bathroom windows are opaque in mine. You have the Serenity decor so it might be different for the bathroom door, but the rest should be same. If you are unsure call AS customer service. They are helpful.

2. If you leave the water pump switch on it will run if the city water pressure you get is low. If you left the switch on, try turning it off. We have had no problem.

3. Oh yes. Ran into a couple with a 2009 International 27 Signature and they had lots as well. Our AC broke on the second trip. That was the only major thing. Many minor items though, like lots of construction debris between the windows, radio speakers wired backwards, receptacles crooked, tear in the vinyl floor that had a bad repair job, door needs adjusting to close without slamming, reading light coming loose, and a squeak in the floor next to the bed. You pay for top quality but hey, the trailer is made from many of the same parts as lesser costing units. Maybe times are hard for AS as well, and their QC may have slipped. The guy with the '09; small window in the right front cracked, skylight came off ( apparently they are held in with two sided tape only??), and the fitting just inside of the sewer flusher let go as he was using it. Big flood before he discovered what was happening! I am very gentle when hooking the hose to mine now.

4. Same issue, but I am not aware that the jack can be moved. Isn't it butting up against the gas bottle cover already?

We do love the AS though. Nothing quite like it.
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Old 08-28-2011, 05:44 PM   #4
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My truck's tailgate also would not clear the powerhead of the jack. I loosened the setscrews and rotated the head 90 degrees to the side, which allowed just enough clearance to open the tailgate while hitched up. Works fine.
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:06 PM   #5
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2011 27 FB International
Leesburg , Virginia
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Thats wierd the skylight in the rear on mine is tinted but not opaque. Its nice in either the dinette or sofa when converted to the bed you can look up at the stars/trees when sleeping. I wish the door window was clear because it also blocks the view out the kitchen wimdow when the door is open!

One other issue is the screen door keeps popping open on its own. Luckily our dog is not one to run off but it is getting old. Is it pretty normal to write up a list and get it back to the dealer for warranty repairs and winterization after the end of season or do i need to report them now and take it in?

Dmt it looks like the gas cover needs to be removed when turning the head of the jack, but once sideways it should fit back on.
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:33 PM   #6
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2011 27 FB International
Leesburg , Virginia
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Thats wierd the skylight in the rear on mine is tinted but not opaque. Its nice in either the dinette or sofa when converted to the bed you can look up at the stars/trees when sleeping. I wish the door window was clear because it also blocks the view out the kitchen wimdow when the door is open!

One other issue is the screen door keeps popping open on its own. Luckily our dog is not one to run off but it is getting old. Is it pretty normal to write up a list and get it back to the dealer for warranty repairs and winterization after the end of season or do i need to report them now and take it in?

Dmt it looks like the gas cover needs to be removed when turning the head of the jack, but once sideways it should fit back on.
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 27fb2freedom
One other issue is the screen door keeps popping open on its own. Luckily our dog is not one to run off but it is getting old. Is it pretty normal to write up a list and get it back to the dealer for warranty repairs and winterization after the end of season or do i need to report them now and take it in?
I forgot that my screen door would never latch. The dealer sent me a new latch assembly. I drilled out the old but had to make new holes for the new one. Works fine now - the factory had the original one misaligned.

Your right in that the skylights are smoked and not opaque. Both mine are that way.
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:49 PM   #8
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QC has been a problem for years. Some of the same issues never seem to stop being discussed here, though in the past few years, it seems there are fewer complaints, but DMT's list reminds of ours, though much shorter.

It is possible that some hitches bring the truck a bit closer to the jack, or some trucks have bigger (higher?) tailgates. A longer bar (the part that fits into the hitch receiver) for the hitch head may be available from the hitch manufacturer. Also when backing at a severe angle, our taillights can hit the segment protectors (metal guys to protect the lower front from gravel, rocks, etc.) and dent them.

There is tape so strong it will hold down the skylights. Our solar panels are held on with tape. But it has to be applied correctly—clean surfaces, no fingers on the sticky sides (finger oil and dirt will compromise the tape).

Long ago Airstreams were made with a clear door windowand had a shade or some covering. That was great because you could see who was at the door. But I guess it is cheaper to install opaque glass. Airstream has done many things to cut costs. To save money on curtains and blinds, maybe some day all the windows will be opaque.

Over the warranty period we had about 60 items for repair. Some happen again. By now things have settled down, though fixing things seems to be normal for an RV, even one that claims to be high quality. I hope it is better for you.

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Old 08-28-2011, 06:53 PM   #9
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2011 27 FB International
Leesburg , Virginia
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Thats just wierd one skylight is smoked and one opaque i would think they would match!

Having fun though and think the SOB we where looking at would have had much more issues
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:54 PM   #10
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[QUOTE=DMT;1038974]I forgot that my screen door would never latch. The dealer sent me a new latch assembly. I drilled out the old but had to make new holes for the new one. Works fine now - the factory had the original one misaligned.

/QUOTE]

And more—

The screen door hinges bend easily and the latch can break if too tight. I struggled for a long time to adjust those damn hinges and finally got the screen door to mostly stay closed. The hinge is part of the outer door hinge and is a poor design. It could be easily hinged to the body directly with a normal hinge and it would hopefully stay in place and the hinge would not bend.

The outer door sometimes will not close easily if the body is twisted a little. That can happen when the stabilizer jacks are used to lift the trailer—they should only touch the ground enough to be snug. They are not to be used to level the trailer.

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Old 08-29-2011, 05:06 AM   #11
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Good advice. I probably put my jacks down more than snug. Do you use the scissor type of expanding wheel chock between your tires?

My problem was the plunger would not catch the mating piece on the frame. The new latch assembly had both parts (latch and plunger) held together with pins. All I had to do was align and fix it to the screen door, the close the screen and outside together. The latch was then aligned on the outside door. Drill the new holes, pop rivet and done.
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMT View Post
Do you use the scissor type of expanding wheel chock between your tires?
I did for a short time. When at an RV park in Fairbanks last year it disappeared. It think it was Riverside, the one with terrible wifi. The pads were separated by lots of bushes, so no one would see it unless they were walking next to trailers looking for one for themselves.

I had not bought a padlock for it, trusting in people, a usually good decision, but not always. I also had not had it for long and the morning we left that park I forgot to look at it and remove it. I drove off and felt nothing restricting us. The question is—would it have fallen off or did someone take it? I assume the latter, but can't prove it. Of course, if it fell out it was useless anyway.

I have not replaced it. It was not particularly easy to use. I bought it for places where the trailer might roll away despite the friction of the tongue jack, stabilizer jacks and cheapo yellow plastic wheel chocks. We've had the trailer on some pretty bad pads and it has never budged, but that was our prime worry (what a ride that would be to wake up to!).

The other reason is theft concerns. We have a lock that inserts into the ball coupler. I have considered a padlock for the coupler latch also, but haven't bothered. The scissor thing might help if you can get it snug enough and add a padlock. I think a thief could possibly pry it out, but I didn't try that myself.

I haven't really seen anything better for the wheels that I wanted to buy. The Denver boot has been suggested on other threads for security.

Gene
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:55 AM   #13
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At the risk of taking this thread off at a tangent, I have to say that I like the scissor type chock. As we have a sloped driveway, it's an added level of security (in the sense of not wanting the trailer to run away) and the one time I tried to drive away with them still in place, one of them (the better adjusted of the two) stayed put and locked the wheels solid. The other chock popped out but has since been adjusted properly. I do agree with Gene about the security of the devices themselves, though, which is why I have padlocks on mine when they're in position, not to stop the trailer being stolen but rather the chocks themselves.
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:28 PM   #14
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A bike lock through the hole in the wheels lol. But not on a 80k$ trailer!
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:41 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 27fb2freedom View Post
Is it pretty normal to write up a list and get it back to the dealer for warranty repairs and winterization after the end of season or do i need to report them now and take it in?
You should report them now - in an email so the issues are date stamped when reported. Report them to the dealer where you bought the trailer and the AS service center in Jackson Center for your records. Take pictures. Document everything during the warranty period. If they send you parts for you to service on your own - ask the question "if I mess this up am I still covered under warrenty". Just to be sure, write a letter and send it certified mail to them. Take down the names of the people you talk to.

OK - I'm off my soap box now, whew.......

A $20 bike lock may save your $60,000 trailer.
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:23 PM   #16
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Thor......what can I say.

Have had 2 25 footers. Just bought a 7 yr old 27fb Serenity in great shape. But the quality of construction and shortcutting on all of them has been pretty disappointing. Airstream has quite a following, but am sure pretty much everyone has grappled with little and not so little things throughout their ownership. Thor is NOT a class act. Even when it comes to design and innovation they are pretty much old school. And quality control is definitely absent. When you see basic things like light switch covers that are unleveled and the occasional rivet that is missing you wonder if anyone even inspected the darn thing and opened and closed all the doors and windows before it was shipped. It's a punch list ok, but I've never bought a new one so don't know.
Anyway, I do love the streamline exterior and they are a dream to pull compared to just about anything. I like the panache and there really is a lot of cheap crap in the RV industry. And many folks don't want to travel too comfortably; the Airstream still feels campy. Been from Alaska to bottom of Baja and it was real. So just fix it and move on. Hopefully it will only be a dime here and there. Travel well. " Airstreamin"
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Old 07-21-2019, 08:02 PM   #17
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More is Better. AS has minimum insulation. I have 28' Serenity. If you have no or little shade, 2 would be needed.
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Old 03-11-2020, 11:58 PM   #18
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[QUOTE=Gene;1038986]
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMT View Post
I forgot that my screen door would never latch. The dealer sent me a new latch assembly. I drilled out the old but had to make new holes for the new one. Works fine now - the factory had the original one misaligned.



/QUOTE]



And more—



The screen door hinges bend easily and the latch can break if too tight. I struggled for a long time to adjust those damn hinges and finally got the screen door to mostly stay closed. The hinge is part of the outer door hinge and is a poor design. It could be easily hinged to the body directly with a normal hinge and it would hopefully stay in place and the hinge would not bend.



The outer door sometimes will not close easily if the body is twisted a little. That can happen when the stabilizer jacks are used to lift the trailer—they should only touch the ground enough to be snug. They are not to be used to level the trailer.



Gene
On the screen door popping open, I found a replacement strike plate for a house screen door at hardware store, witch one to long ago. The edge that catches the latch stuck out more and engaged the latch much better. If when closing the screen door it wants to pop back at you you'll need to tweak the hinges so they don't press against the door jam. This is just trial and error job.

On the subject of screen doors I attached a small elastic cord to the hinge side to assist in closing the door. Boy was the cat was sup-prized.
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