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Old 05-30-2011, 08:34 PM   #21
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Lewster, Nice explanation!
Thanks.
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:42 PM   #22
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Kent, do you have awnings on all sides? I know our Safari only came with a curb side awning. I added a big long one on the streetside that pretty much mirrored the curb side. That additional awning was what I needed to fight the sun. I always deploy all the awnings to minimize the heat gain.

I'm somewhat surprised to hear you have a 15K unit. I assume you are running it on the high fan speed.

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Old 05-30-2011, 09:01 PM   #23
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I only have the one curb side awning. The main issue with awnings, I live in Amarillo. It is extremely windy here and I can maybe roll mine out once or twice a week. That pretty much leaves me with options that do not include window or side awnings. So far the small fans have helped greatly today. They move the cool air much better throughout the trailer. Tomorrow I will try the foil lined bubble wrap, that sounds like a real winner!

Thank you everyone for the great advice.

Best regards,

Kent
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:17 AM   #24
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Mine came white from the factory... Are you referring to an aftermarket coating like "Kool-Seal"?
That's what I was trying to figure out. Do you recall if the white roof paint you got was standard, or did you order it as an option?

No point painting it again, in my book. Kool seal might be better, who knows? But certainly not "better" enough to do another coat.
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:09 AM   #25
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Kent

I have run into this even with dual A/C units.

Hot, humid, windy weather is worst because you can't use the awnings and the wind leads to more humid air infiltrating. The humidity adds considerably to the cooling load. Also, windy weather isn't conducive to outdoor cooking, so there's a temptation to try to cook inside.

The lesson I took from this was to be more picky about site selection (where possible) and avoid unprotected sites with no shade during the summer months. Also, I try to have some cold meals available for days like this, that don't require any cooking.

I don't think the window film and so on really help much. It's mainly a problem of solar gain through the skin, combined with air infiltration.
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:47 AM   #26
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That's what I was trying to figure out. Do you recall if the white roof paint you got was standard, or did you order it as an option?

No point painting it again, in my book. Kool seal might be better, who knows? But certainly not "better" enough to do another coat.
Most all Airstreams came with white center roof panels starting at least in the mid-1990's, if not sooner. We've had our roof painted with kool seal for two years now with no peeling, flaking, or chalking. An added benefit is it covers the rivets up there, so if any were leaking they get sealed.
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Old 05-31-2011, 12:45 PM   #27
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And in this instance, it doesn't help much that aluminium is an excellent thermal transfer medium. It absorbs and transfers solar heat very efficiently.
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:21 PM   #28
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And in this instance, it doesn't help much that aluminium is an excellent thermal transfer medium. It absorbs and transfers solar heat very efficiently.
Maybe they had the right idea with the Argosies?
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:43 PM   #29
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Most all Airstreams came with white center roof panels starting at least in the mid-1990's, if not sooner. We've had our roof painted with kool seal for two years now with no peeling, flaking, or chalking. An added benefit is it covers the rivets up there, so if any were leaking they get sealed.
Thanks, Terry. Did you do it yourself? If so, was there much prep work?

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Maybe they had the right idea with the Argosies?
Could be, Lew, but Argies are beige on top, aren't they? Not sure that's as good as a real reflective white would be...
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Old 05-31-2011, 03:29 PM   #30
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Thanks, Terry. Did you do it yourself? If so, was there much prep work?



Could be, Lew, but Argies are beige on top, aren't they? Not sure that's as good as a real reflective white would be...
I did the roof myself, all the prep work consisted of making sure the roof was clean. Our Argosy had the top half painted white, with the bottom half beige.
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Old 05-31-2011, 11:06 PM   #31
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Pendeltonkm,

I picked it up at a Wal-Mart in Green Valley Arizona. It is made by Stanley and it is a barrell fan that can be adjusted many differrent ways, and it has two 10 amp plugs on the side.

hope this helps,

Regards,

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Old 06-01-2011, 12:18 AM   #32
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Kent

I agree with YankeeDoodle. Windows should be viewed as a hole in the insulation. The only way to make your trailer cooler is to make the cooling volume smaller (hence closing off the bedroom) and/or reducing the heat gain through the windows, skylights and any other "holes" in the insulation. I might even try to double the Reflex foil insulation as it is not very thick. Eventhough you have a 13.5 kbtu/hr AC unit, a 15 k unit only gives you about 10% more cooling capacity. I suspect insulating the windows will make a much larger difference than 10% in terms of minimising the heat gain of the trailer.

BTW, how is your refrigerator doing?

Dan
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:03 AM   #33
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y'all ain't paying attention. The 2011 27 FBs came with the 15,000 btu ac as standard. Not the 13.5k one. So he's already got the max factory ac for the trailer.
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:30 AM   #34
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member lewster was using a sunscreen on the outside of the window glass in florida. from my experience with just winter sun in miami i'd say that would be a big improvement. a cooler window glass will make the inside insulation even more effective.
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:37 AM   #35
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Kent, try the foil insulation in your stack windows first. I found that, for whatever reason, covering them with foil gave me the most "bang for my buck" with the foil. It helped the most, and still allowed light in. Covering the vista view windows, if you have any, is also a good idea. They are on top, where the sun is strongest.
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:53 AM   #36
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For all, as you all have figured out my 27 FB already has the white top. Again thanks to everyone for the good suggestions.

TouringDan the fridge seems to be doing alright. I have noticed maybe a 1 to 2 degree change with the extreme heat.

Kent
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:58 AM   #37
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member lewster was using a sunscreen on the outside of the window glass in florida. from my experience with just winter sun in miami i'd say that would be a big improvement. a cooler window glass will make the inside insulation even more effective.
Someone mention me???

This is what the exterior sunscreens look like: Window Covers I had them on all of my windows on the 19CCD plus awnings all around. Rarely needed the A/C in Oregon.

These are custom made to your windows on site. They are great and are easily removable.
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:13 AM   #38
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I'm really interested in what works for you. Mid august should be the start of our very first extended six week stay in our own 2011 FB27, and our first planned stop is not too far south of Amarillo...
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:38 PM   #39
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Today while I was work my wife went to Walmart and purchased 5 jumbo windshield solar visors. 40$ later she had custom fit them in the skylights, vents, panoramic and vista windows. Thus far it has made the inside temp 3 to 4 degrees cooler than normal. Money well spent if you ask me!
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:50 PM   #40
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4 degrees is a lot.
I just realized that our "normal" house temp is in the mid 80's. We've been living here for six years with no AC, so not sure how hot it would have to be for us to be uncomfortable. But I am pretty sure 85-90 wouldn't bother us that much.
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