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08-28-2011, 06:25 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
2011 27 FB International
Keswick
, Ontario
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 64
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12V main disconnect
Hi All, My 2011 27FB 12 Volt main disconnect does not disconnect power. There is a momentary button switch that allows you to switch from Use to Store. There is a red LED light that is not lit up. When the button is pushed the LED does not light up and all 12 volt circuits in the trailer continue to have power. The trailer is disconnected from 120 volt hydro when I do this. The trailer is still under warranty but if this is something simple to look at and maybe repair I would fix it myself.
Your advise is appreciated.
thx
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08-28-2011, 06:33 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2003 22' International CCD
Kiln
, Mississippi
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,779
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I went to West Marine - got a manual water tight positive ON/OFF battery disconnect switch and put it inline on the hich end by the battery. My CCD has the same setup as yours, I trust mechanical stuff, electronic switches and relays fail me too often. I can see ON and OFF from a long ways away from this switch. Took 30 minutes to install, leave the jumper to the electric jack on it's own line for operation when the switch is in the OFF position.
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Michael & Tina with Layla and Preston BZ The family has grown. 2003 22' INTERNATIONAL CCD
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08-28-2011, 07:32 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Sovereign
Oakley
, California
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,197
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This is worrisome to me. If you forget to turn it on and tow, where does the power for your brakes come from if the trailer disconnects (in an emergency) from the TV? If you isolate the jack, shouldn't you also isolate the brakes via the emergency switch on the tongue?
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08-28-2011, 07:42 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2003 22' International CCD
Kiln
, Mississippi
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,779
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Well, lets see, it's right there on the tongue, I have to look at it when hooking up - it's right there in front of the battery box. It's a 4 inch square red switch, little hard to miss. BUT, to make sure I do turn it on - I have a light testing box on my cord all the time when unplugged from the TV. I test all the lights before hooking up - everytime I hook up - to prevent blowing fuses in my TV. If there was no power to turn on the lights then I would know. Just an extra step in hooking up "Look at switch". Generally at home, I have it on to charge so I am usually ready to go at hookup.
Batteries are expensive to kill. Switch was only $25 with battery cable.
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Michael & Tina with Layla and Preston BZ The family has grown. 2003 22' INTERNATIONAL CCD
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08-28-2011, 07:51 PM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
2017 30' Classic
Washington
, Utah
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 124
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12v Disconnect switch
Hi Mifair,
We have a 2011 Int'l also. Try holding the switch in the down position for a couple of seconds. Mine does not always catch with just a quick push.
Ron
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08-28-2011, 07:55 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
2013 27' FB Classic
Clermont
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 431
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You need to push on the bottom of the switch to disconnect -- and as RonaldC303 said... it takes a couple of seconds to disengage. Also -- if the batteries are below 12V, the switch may not work.
__________________
Tom & Lori
2013 27 FB Classic Limited
2019 Ford F250 King Ranch 6.7L Diesel
WBCCI 03288 TAC PA-17
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08-28-2011, 07:59 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2003 22' International CCD
Kiln
, Mississippi
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,779
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Like this switch.
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Michael & Tina with Layla and Preston BZ The family has grown. 2003 22' INTERNATIONAL CCD
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08-28-2011, 08:13 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
2011 23' FB International
1975 Argosy 30
Santa Barbara
, California
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 155
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In our 2011 23FB I really like the switch. It disconnects between the batteries and the 12v panel in the converter. When I'm on the road I'm in "use" mode so I have 12v power throughout the trailer. When I'm parked at home I'm in "store" mode and always have 120v connected, which provides power throughout the trailer via the converter. The "store" position makes it that the stupid stock converter doesn't overcharge my batteries. I have a dealer-installed 50W solar panel on the roof with a 3-stage charger and that keeps the batteries nicely topped off as the charger is connected on the battery side of the disconnect switch so it does charge the batteries while in "store" mode.
If you don't have any solar and keep 120v connected, stay in "use" mode and look into replacing the charger for a 3-stage one.
If you don't have solar and don't keep 120v connected, get solar, even just a few W to keep the batteries from self-discharging.
If you want to work on the electric and not rick anything, physically disconnect the batteries.
Hope this helps!
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10-27-2011, 09:20 PM
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#9
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one of those
2011 27 FB International
'03 F250 PSD
, Airstream summers, Catalac winters
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,091
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Well, we are having the same issue. The red light won't go out on ours.
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10-27-2011, 09:34 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Holly Lake Ranch
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,794
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You have to hold the rocker switch down until the light goes out, but Im not sure why AS doesnt put a better switch solution for that function
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10-27-2011, 10:36 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2003 22' International CCD
Kiln
, Mississippi
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goal15
You have to hold the rocker switch down until the light goes out, but Im not sure why AS doesnt put a better switch solution for that function
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Money
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Michael & Tina with Layla and Preston BZ The family has grown. 2003 22' INTERNATIONAL CCD
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