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01-04-2013, 01:08 PM
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#1
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New Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Belfair
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
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Parking on steep driveway
Hi... Just bought a 62' 24 ft. airstream, need to bring it home. Problem: Live on steep driveway and is the only place I have for it. Need some advice how to keep it stable and the best way to brace it from rolling down the hill while I gut and remodel the inside. Thanks need answers soon PLease
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01-04-2013, 01:48 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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You will need a very good set of chocks for the tires and probably a block to go under the tongue jack. Depending on how steep the driveway, it may not be practical or safe, even with chocks. You could use the type that clamp between the tires and those that go in front.
Remember SAFETY FIRST!!
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01-04-2013, 02:01 PM
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#3
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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Real question is, how steep? If the slope is such that if you level the trailer and the up-slope end touches the ground, forget it. You'd be better off finding somewhere else to do the work, even if you have to rent a place. Working on the trailer where you can't even get it level means problems during remodeling.
When you get it where you want it, take the wheels off, and level it with blocks under the axles (jacking up one wheel at a time to get the block under it). No wheels, it won't roll.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
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01-04-2013, 02:06 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,668
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See my avitar...or go to my profile screen. I park, when at home, just about as steep as the tail draggin' bars will allow. I use a wedge style chock/lock between the tires. blocks under the tongue jack and jack almost all the way extended. If it is going to be there more than a day, I put about 1.5" of level blocks under the front tires to relieve the stress on the rear axle. very stable....never moves a bit.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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01-04-2013, 02:08 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1977 23' Safari
Niagara on the Lake
, Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 984
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I have a pair of chocks/locks that go inbetween the tires, they seem to work well. You could also pass a chain through the wheels to lock them together so they can't turn.
I also have a truck mostly dedicated to being a tow vehicle so I can just leave the trailer hitched and the truck in park with the park brake on.
__________________
1977 Safari Land Yacht
2005 Toyota Tundra SR5
2022 Toyota 4Runner SR5
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01-04-2013, 02:25 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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A note on in-between-the-tire chocks. If tire pressure is decreased suddenly, or over time, they will not hold. I use them, but do not trust them on a grade.
Also do you ever get freezing rain on the driveway, if so the trailer could slip quickly if traction of wheel chocks is lost.
It sounds extreme, but I wonder if you could drill the driveway and put bolts through wheel chocks to anchor it, like in parking lots. I suppose it would need some sort of removal system would be needed for moving it.
doug k
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01-04-2013, 02:39 PM
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#7
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum
It sounds extreme, but I wonder if you could drill the driveway and put bolts through wheel chocks to anchor it, like in parking lots. I suppose it would need some sort of removal system would be needed for moving it.
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I thought of something like that, but then edited my previous post to remove it, since if the driveway is steep enough to really need it, it's too steep to level the trailer.
My thought was to drive a long steel rod as an anchor alongside (not through) the driveway near the trailer's rear bumper, and run a steel chain, nylon webbing tow strap, or a steel cable from the rear axle to the steel rod anchor. No need to remove the steel rod afterwards, just drive it even further into the ground, so that the top of the rod is below ground leveland won't catch a lawnmower blade.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
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01-04-2013, 02:39 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,668
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Doug reminded me, I do chock the wheels on both sides as well as use the between-tire-wedge chock. Never park at home during freezing weather....it's winterized and put away at the "yard". I never thought about sudden deflation. I think I'll add the through wheel heavy cable lock which I use for an additional level of theft deterrent at the storage lot, at home as an anti-roll away device.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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01-04-2013, 02:43 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
Placerville
, California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,328
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You may want to consider an anchor and chain.....no kidding if there is a secure fence post, building, tree or rock that you can tie off a chain to the axle. If that would be a trip hazzard then allow the chain to rest on the ground. Yes there would be some slack but if the trailer begins to roll.....
Neil
__________________
Neil and Lynn Holman
FreshAir #12407
Avatar;
Kirk Creek, Big Sur, Ca. coast.
1966 Trade Wind
1971 Buick Centurion convertible
455 cid
1969 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
455 cid
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01-04-2013, 03:21 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2019 27' Flying Cloud
Albuquerque
, New Mexico
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,917
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Don't Use Cheap, Plastic Chocks
Go to Harbor Freight and purchase at least four of the heavy, rubber chocks.
For your application, you may want eight chocks.
I would not trust the between the wheel chocks on a really steep driveway for all the reasons already stated.
__________________
Ken L 2019 Flying Cloud 27FB
2020 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab 6.2L Max Tow Four Corners Unit WBCCI #5783
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01-04-2013, 05:09 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,668
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You could also attach an extension to your breakaway switch and stake it back and down into the edge of the drive. Use a little imagination on setup. Of course, 12v would have to be up and running.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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01-04-2013, 05:56 PM
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#12
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
........I think I'll add the through wheel heavy cable lock which I use for an additional level of theft deterrent at the storage lot, at home as an anti-roll away device.
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Winter Storage anti-theft device....
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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01-04-2013, 06:29 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville
, New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
You could also attach an extension to your breakaway switch and stake it back and down into the edge of the drive. Use a little imagination on setup. Of course, 12v would have to be up and running.
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Except that would fry the brakes in 5 minutes or so if you couldn't release them.
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01-04-2013, 06:32 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazbro
Except that would fry the brakes in 5 minutes or so if you couldn't release them.
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Not with hydraulic. The pump shuts off after 20 seconds, and a hold solenoid retains hydraulic pressure until 12 volts is removed.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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01-04-2013, 06:49 PM
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#15
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4 Rivet Member
1989 29' Excella
1979 31' Sovereign
1999 25' Safari
Youngsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 344
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Karenshere
Is your diveway sloped up or down? If down and the slope is severe you may not be able to get the AS into driveway, as the trailer tongue/hitch will bottom out as you back in. If Up slope you may bottom out rear bumper and frame. Neither senario is good. Be sure to have an extra set of eyes watching as you back in.
PS WELCOME !!
Steve
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01-04-2013, 08:37 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville
, New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
Not with hydraulic. The pump shuts off after 20 seconds, and a hold solenoid retains hydraulic pressure until 12 volts is removed.
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True, but I don't think Airstreams had hydraulic brakes from the factory in 1962.
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01-04-2013, 08:54 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazbro
True, but I don't think Airstreams had hydraulic brakes from the factory in 1962.
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I figured you were addressing me....my bad.
But, as usual we start picking apart for the rare exception. I have been parking on that slope for 15 years, between the AS and my old SOB. Never been an issue as described above.
If a trailer slipped off its block and started "hopping" on its jack and then the brakes applied, don't you think a neighbor or someone in the house would notice?
I have heard this "fry the brakes" comment before. Why would it get hot (very hot)? It's just an electromagnet....there's no frictional heat when standing still. I think they get hotter in actual road use than sitting while applied.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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01-04-2013, 09:53 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville
, New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,161
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Other then resistance causing heat I don't know why they would produce that much heat.
Andy of InlandRV said many times that the magnets can burnout if applied for more then 5 minutes and in some cases produce enough heat to ruin the temper of the hubs.
Fortunately I don't have any personal experience with this.
As far as someone noticing.
What was that sound?
Look out the window it already stopped.
Nothing left to notice.
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01-04-2013, 11:57 PM
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#19
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New Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Belfair
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
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Thanks for suggestions
Sorry I haven't replied sooner, but just got back from Harbor Freight. And was very happy to find all the good suggestions on my computer. First of all my trailer only has one axle. I did buy chokes, they were the biggest ones there. They have a eye bolt in the end of them, not sure if I can use the bolts, I bought a towing strap with hooks on both ends and two u-shaped brackets, I think they are for tie-downs? they have square slots for the bolts to fit in. It is a upward slope to my house, thought about bolting it to my garage on each side of garage door through studs . My son has had a trailer up there before but on the side of garage. Its flat there but problem now is the neighbor put fence and I planted hedge and gardens and he is going to move it with his extra cab Dodge Ram PU. So, the combine total of 24' trailer and length of truck makes it to tight to get it on the side of garage. If I put it at a storage place that's fine but need electricity to remodel it. Someone suggested a generator! Not sure if they would let me do the work there... Unfortunately I don't have friends that have property, where they would let me use their land. We know we'll have a problem at bottom of hill but my son says he can jack it till he gets it so it won't hit the bumper. I really appreciate all the good advise and will let you know how it goes. I'm SCARED.....
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01-05-2013, 07:06 AM
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#20
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3 Rivet Member
2003 25' Safari
Riverside
, California
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 234
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I buried a 3/4 inch diameter U-bolt in a footing before I laid my trailer pad.It is the safest anchor you could ever build and has been used as a winch anchor.
Without knowing the degree of the slope it's all just guess work.
__________________
2003 25' Safari
2005 Ram 2500 4x4
1994 Ram 2500 4x4
2015 Toyota Tacoma trd 4x4
2000 Jeep Wrangler 4x4
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