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Old 01-04-2013, 01:08 PM   #1
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1962 24' Tradewind
Belfair , Washington
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Parking on steep driveway

Hi... Just bought a 62' 24 ft. airstream, need to bring it home. Problem: Live on steep driveway and is the only place I have for it. Need some advice how to keep it stable and the best way to brace it from rolling down the hill while I gut and remodel the inside. Thanks need answers soon PLease
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:48 PM   #2
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You will need a very good set of chocks for the tires and probably a block to go under the tongue jack. Depending on how steep the driveway, it may not be practical or safe, even with chocks. You could use the type that clamp between the tires and those that go in front.
Remember SAFETY FIRST!!
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:01 PM   #3
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Real question is, how steep? If the slope is such that if you level the trailer and the up-slope end touches the ground, forget it. You'd be better off finding somewhere else to do the work, even if you have to rent a place. Working on the trailer where you can't even get it level means problems during remodeling.

When you get it where you want it, take the wheels off, and level it with blocks under the axles (jacking up one wheel at a time to get the block under it). No wheels, it won't roll.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:06 PM   #4
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See my avitar...or go to my profile screen. I park, when at home, just about as steep as the tail draggin' bars will allow. I use a wedge style chock/lock between the tires. blocks under the tongue jack and jack almost all the way extended. If it is going to be there more than a day, I put about 1.5" of level blocks under the front tires to relieve the stress on the rear axle. very stable....never moves a bit.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:08 PM   #5
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I have a pair of chocks/locks that go inbetween the tires, they seem to work well. You could also pass a chain through the wheels to lock them together so they can't turn.


I also have a truck mostly dedicated to being a tow vehicle so I can just leave the trailer hitched and the truck in park with the park brake on.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #6
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A note on in-between-the-tire chocks. If tire pressure is decreased suddenly, or over time, they will not hold. I use them, but do not trust them on a grade.

Also do you ever get freezing rain on the driveway, if so the trailer could slip quickly if traction of wheel chocks is lost.

It sounds extreme, but I wonder if you could drill the driveway and put bolts through wheel chocks to anchor it, like in parking lots. I suppose it would need some sort of removal system would be needed for moving it.

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Old 01-04-2013, 02:39 PM   #7
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It sounds extreme, but I wonder if you could drill the driveway and put bolts through wheel chocks to anchor it, like in parking lots. I suppose it would need some sort of removal system would be needed for moving it.
I thought of something like that, but then edited my previous post to remove it, since if the driveway is steep enough to really need it, it's too steep to level the trailer.

My thought was to drive a long steel rod as an anchor alongside (not through) the driveway near the trailer's rear bumper, and run a steel chain, nylon webbing tow strap, or a steel cable from the rear axle to the steel rod anchor. No need to remove the steel rod afterwards, just drive it even further into the ground, so that the top of the rod is below ground leveland won't catch a lawnmower blade.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:39 PM   #8
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Doug reminded me, I do chock the wheels on both sides as well as use the between-tire-wedge chock. Never park at home during freezing weather....it's winterized and put away at the "yard". I never thought about sudden deflation. I think I'll add the through wheel heavy cable lock which I use for an additional level of theft deterrent at the storage lot, at home as an anti-roll away device.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:43 PM   #9
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You may want to consider an anchor and chain.....no kidding if there is a secure fence post, building, tree or rock that you can tie off a chain to the axle. If that would be a trip hazzard then allow the chain to rest on the ground. Yes there would be some slack but if the trailer begins to roll.....

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Old 01-04-2013, 03:21 PM   #10
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Don't Use Cheap, Plastic Chocks

Go to Harbor Freight and purchase at least four of the heavy, rubber chocks.
For your application, you may want eight chocks.
I would not trust the between the wheel chocks on a really steep driveway for all the reasons already stated.
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:09 PM   #11
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You could also attach an extension to your breakaway switch and stake it back and down into the edge of the drive. Use a little imagination on setup. Of course, 12v would have to be up and running.
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
........I think I'll add the through wheel heavy cable lock which I use for an additional level of theft deterrent at the storage lot, at home as an anti-roll away device.
Winter Storage anti-theft device....


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Old 01-04-2013, 06:29 PM   #13
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You could also attach an extension to your breakaway switch and stake it back and down into the edge of the drive. Use a little imagination on setup. Of course, 12v would have to be up and running.
Except that would fry the brakes in 5 minutes or so if you couldn't release them.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:32 PM   #14
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Except that would fry the brakes in 5 minutes or so if you couldn't release them.
Not with hydraulic. The pump shuts off after 20 seconds, and a hold solenoid retains hydraulic pressure until 12 volts is removed.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:49 PM   #15
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Karenshere
Is your diveway sloped up or down? If down and the slope is severe you may not be able to get the AS into driveway, as the trailer tongue/hitch will bottom out as you back in. If Up slope you may bottom out rear bumper and frame. Neither senario is good. Be sure to have an extra set of eyes watching as you back in.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:37 PM   #16
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Not with hydraulic. The pump shuts off after 20 seconds, and a hold solenoid retains hydraulic pressure until 12 volts is removed.
True, but I don't think Airstreams had hydraulic brakes from the factory in 1962.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:54 PM   #17
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True, but I don't think Airstreams had hydraulic brakes from the factory in 1962.
I figured you were addressing me....my bad.

But, as usual we start picking apart for the rare exception. I have been parking on that slope for 15 years, between the AS and my old SOB. Never been an issue as described above.

If a trailer slipped off its block and started "hopping" on its jack and then the brakes applied, don't you think a neighbor or someone in the house would notice?

I have heard this "fry the brakes" comment before. Why would it get hot (very hot)? It's just an electromagnet....there's no frictional heat when standing still. I think they get hotter in actual road use than sitting while applied.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:53 PM   #18
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Other then resistance causing heat I don't know why they would produce that much heat.

Andy of InlandRV said many times that the magnets can burnout if applied for more then 5 minutes and in some cases produce enough heat to ruin the temper of the hubs.

Fortunately I don't have any personal experience with this.

As far as someone noticing.
What was that sound?
Look out the window it already stopped.
Nothing left to notice.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:57 PM   #19
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Thanks for suggestions

Sorry I haven't replied sooner, but just got back from Harbor Freight. And was very happy to find all the good suggestions on my computer. First of all my trailer only has one axle. I did buy chokes, they were the biggest ones there. They have a eye bolt in the end of them, not sure if I can use the bolts, I bought a towing strap with hooks on both ends and two u-shaped brackets, I think they are for tie-downs? they have square slots for the bolts to fit in. It is a upward slope to my house, thought about bolting it to my garage on each side of garage door through studs. My son has had a trailer up there before but on the side of garage. Its flat there but problem now is the neighbor put fence and I planted hedge and gardens and he is going to move it with his extra cab Dodge Ram PU. So, the combine total of 24' trailer and length of truck makes it to tight to get it on the side of garage. If I put it at a storage place that's fine but need electricity to remodel it. Someone suggested a generator! Not sure if they would let me do the work there... Unfortunately I don't have friends that have property, where they would let me use their land. We know we'll have a problem at bottom of hill but my son says he can jack it till he gets it so it won't hit the bumper. I really appreciate all the good advise and will let you know how it goes. I'm SCARED.....
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:06 AM   #20
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I buried a 3/4 inch diameter U-bolt in a footing before I laid my trailer pad.It is the safest anchor you could ever build and has been used as a winch anchor.
Without knowing the degree of the slope it's all just guess work.
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