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Old 09-17-2011, 01:49 PM   #43
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Wow this phone is sensitive. Anyway , the pointe is if you can find a cheap storage place under a roof take it.
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Old 09-17-2011, 03:24 PM   #44
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Well that's the point, the less you expose it to the elements the less damage that can happen. If we lived in Seattle, we'd be looking for leaks a lot. Not so much in Arizona, but would be watching the sealant condition for sun damage.

That's not to say you shouldn't use your Airstream. Get out there at every opportunity. Just take good care of it.

doug k
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:06 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Kosm1o View Post
Wow this phone is sensitive. Anyway , the pointe is if you can find a cheap storage place under a roof take it.
hello hello hello...I hate it when they just hang-up.

boB
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:51 AM   #46
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Wow, I'm doing everything wrong!

Hi, after reading some of these posts, I must be doing everything wrong. My trailer has been towed in rain, snow, winds, and high temps. My trailer is always parked outside, 8.5 miles from the ocean, and never waxed. I usually wash my trailer before each trip and right after each trip; And it gets hosed down randomly in between. Gee, I even towed it on gravel roads in the Yukon and whatever they had in Alaska. It still works and it still looks pretty. As for the statements about having Airstream check everything out just before it runs out of warranty, I would be really surprised if they would do that. At Ford it was called "Selling Warranty" and was forbidden. The owner had to list his concerns and they had to be verified first.
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:35 AM   #47
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Wait a minute, should I open another can of worm?
Should I wax the AS?Honest question , I do not even own an AS yet, but will soon.
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Old 09-18-2011, 06:14 AM   #48
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Robert is exactly rite...the only way we were allowed to do warranty work was thru customer complaint or a failure that was found during a scheduled maintenance or State Insp.
If you check the schedule there is usually a major check-up just before the warranty expires, most customers decline this service because of cost, some models $350++, kind of like scratching your butt when it's your nose that itches.

As far as waxing....Bob west don't, Bob east do, kind'a. No wax, I
seal once a year, and inspect for possible caulking/leak problems.

Bob
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:59 AM   #49
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Wait a minute, should I open another can of worm?
Should I wax the AS?Honest question , I do not even own an AS yet, but will soon.
Every opinion here is a can of worms, so take what you can use.

I use the products sold in the online Airstream store, thinking they should be compatible with my Airstream. A couple times year I put on their Rejex product rather than wax. Then, and sometimes more often, I treat all the exterior rivets and cut edges with their CorrosionX and wipe it off. If you put on the CorrosionX first, the Rejex won't bond with the surface. This seems to make the Airstream easier to clean, and prevent corrosion.

I also spray the exterior fittings, wheels, and wheel wells (then wipe it off), and all exposed chassis/axle metal with their Boshield product, which leaves a wax residue to resist corrosion.

doug k
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:23 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum

Every opinion here is a can of worms, so take what you can use.

I use the products sold in the online Airstream store, thinking they should be compatible with my Airstream. A couple times year I put on their Rejex product rather than wax. Then, and sometimes more often, I treat all the exterior rivets and cut edges with their CorrosionX and wipe it off. If you put on the CorrosionX first, the Rejex won't bond with the surface. This seems to make the Airstream easier to clean, and prevent corrosion.

I also spray the exterior fittings, wheels, and wheel wells (then wipe it off), and all exposed chassis/axle metal with their Boshield product, which leaves a wax residue to resist corrosion.

doug k
Than you all for the valuable information.
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Old 09-20-2011, 08:23 AM   #51
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Took delivery yesterday:-).
Very intimidating experience from getting used to stabilizer bar, one need solid steel robotic arm to do that IMHO. The electronics , forget it , just give me the manual, the Gray , the Black tank, wow, can I call it the "poop shoot" instead. We are overwhelmed last night, Felt better this morning, hook it up to the house power still 15 amp, wonder should I call electrician for the 30 amp?? Took a few picture, I think the most relaxing "person" last night was "MUMU" my SharPei . My neighbor already came and asked are we serving "hot dogs" over here????




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Old 09-20-2011, 08:41 AM   #52
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15 amps are enough for nearly everything, except the air conditioner. If you can get by without it, 15 amps may be sufficient for you. However, if you plan to run the A/C, a 30 amp RV outlet is a must. Here in Phoenix, in August when it's over 100 at midnight, just loading up can be like heavy exercise in a sauna. If you need run the heat pump for heat (assuming you are so equipped), you will need 15 amps, too. However, you could just use the furnace instead, and you won't need 30 amps.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:08 AM   #53
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Doc,

When you hitch-up...

Drop the tongue on the ball and lock, raise up with tongue jack, attach/tension wd bars, lot less effort.

Trailer looks great!!!!

Just "camp" there for a few daze, you'll be an EX-SPURT in no time.

Bob
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“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
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Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:12 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
Doc,

When you hitch-up...

Drop the tongue on the ball and lock, raise up with tongue jack, attach/tension wd bars, lot less effort.

Trailer looks great!!!!

Just "camp" there for a few daze, you'll be an EX-SPURT in no time.

Bob
Thanks so much, I just love you guy, you don't know how much I appreciate the help. Should I call the electrician for a 30 amp hook up or that's the waste of money?
Need all the help I could get.
PS , whoops, did't see the above post,Thanks.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:25 AM   #55
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Thumbs up Connivence

Doc,

We had a 30a installed next to our pad. It is nice to have the AC, fridge and micro operable for Spring get-ready. Also helps when used as a "guest house" and doing inside work on a hot Summer day.

Bob
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:33 AM   #56
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I have a 30amp outlet just below my fuse panel. I can easily hook up the trailer when it is in front of the house getting ready for the next trip. In the summer, I have to run the Air Conditioning or the refrigerator will not get cool enough. When it is 115 degrees outside, the fridge does not work well without the AC running.

One word of warning - More then a few members have hired an electrician to install an outlet only to have it wired for 240 volts by mistake. Make sure who ever you hire to do the work knows that this is a 120 volt single phase circuit.
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