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Julie-Bob · 07-02-2018, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moosetags

I agree with all of your points, Steve. I especially like to Factory delivery suggestion. I have no idea why Airstream has never done this. I think that this policy has always been a big mistake. Other RV manufacturers have a factory delivery option.

Brisn

If you purchase a new airplane from Boeing or Airbus. You go to the factory delivery building and do a walk though before flying a way. Great experience. Done it many times. Great

**moosetags** · 07-02-2018, 09:37 PM

Chevrolet has always offered factory delivery for their Corvette.

Brian

rmkrum · 07-02-2018, 09:38 PM

Yup. It’s an amazing process. 20 years with Boeing, still love watching them get built and fly over...

“if it ain’t Boeing, I’m NOT going..”

grunt98311 · 07-03-2018, 08:09 AM

Tesla also does factory delivery

Thiss · 07-03-2018, 09:48 AM

Go back to the old way of tucking all systems up into the belly pan.

A lot of ground clearance is given up by the dump valves hanging down.

JFScheck · 07-03-2018, 03:05 PM

Great thread - so much awesome info!

PatSoozy · 07-19-2018, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

-
- ALL Interstate batteries should be tested by the Retail Dealership BEFORE the trailer leaves the lot. I would estimate that more than 50% and up to 100% are Dead On Arrival from sitting on the lot for months. Only those with working Solar and AGM's will survive...if the Solar Panel is connected properly. Unlike my 2006 23 foot Safari when new off the lot. Dead Batteries and non connected Solar from the Factory.

Tested and if dead cells, replaced! Our battery was out of the one year warranty the day we drove ours off the lot. We probably could have gotten one from the dealer with enough complaining, but a six hour drive is a lot more hassle than a 120.00 battery.

PatSoozy · 07-19-2018, 09:27 PM

It may not be so bad in a larger unit, but in the Sport 22 FB, it’s the worst! As in bad enough to make my husband hate the trailer. I saw how other Sport owners had swapped out their posts with Lagun brand table mounts. I think he thought I was crazy for dropping 200 dollars on that contraption, but now that it is in, he is much happier. Installing this on the curb side dinette support took some reinforcing under the dinette (as well as relocating the power plug), but it is a much better solution for a roomy dinette area. Airstream should consider this as an alternative to the giant hydraulic post. No leg room. We had to remove the tightening screws completely and sit on it just to make the thing into a bed. The contraption that allows the table top to slide in and out looks like it came off a keyboard tray from a cheap workstation. It is also very wobbly with no means of stabilizing it.

xisme2 · 07-20-2018, 08:08 PM

I don't understand why AS doesn't install the batteries, do any testing they may or may not do, and then simply unhook the neg terminal. They can store/ship the unit and when it gets to the dealer the battery will be at least alive.

perri · 09-12-2018, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glh101282

I get better service at an older established service center, C&G Trailer Service in Bellflower, Ca being my go to place.

We took our 1970 there when we arrived on the west coast. We had been on the road for 5 months with a new-to-us rig. We had a punch list of about a dozen large and small items. Every single item on the list that they touched, they screwed up, many in more than one way. In repairing our fridge, they irreparably broke the interior lining, in several places. The ac was installed 3in out of center, with the drain installed with a kink in it so water poured onto the bed (we learned in Barstow). Sloppy, sloppy work. So we went back to our motel in Ventura while they re-did what they could. After $XXXX in repairs our vintage Overlander came out of that place looking worse than before. I only feel rage when I hear those two initials.

glh101282 · 09-12-2018, 04:42 PM

I tend to think that things have deteriorated. They are/were good at exterior stuff. Had the trailer repainted twice, tire blowout damage repaired, and an awning replaced, as well as an air conditioner. Everything was satisfactory.

Just like Andy at Inland who gradually got out of the repair business as he got older and could not give it his personal attention, I think C&G and Rod may be in the same situation.

Airstream has opened a sales/repair facility in LA and his good workers may have gone there. I used to travel from NM to C&G because the Airstream dealer in Albuquerque did not seem very competent. They seam to have upped their game in the last year so may be worth a try again.

I think C&G is probably one of the few remaining service facilities who will paint an Airstream. I had to have mine repainted because the sun had eaten up and oxidized the aluminum skin on my 1980. Could not be recoated. Even so the sun also ate up the paint within 10 years. I guess life at 7,000 feet has its UV problems.

perri · 09-13-2018, 12:00 AM

New coach door step, a grey tank install, adding jacks. All were off. We didn’t need a panel, maybe that would have gone ok. What irked me second most (I actually cried when I saw all the cracks in the interior of my original ‘70 fridge—which is still working) is that a simple walk-thru would have prevented a huge waste of our time and travel. Check the work! Perhaps something deeper is happening there, and I’m sorry if that’s the case. Things change.

Steamguy · 09-14-2018, 03:42 PM

A way to keep the door from latching open, so you can step in, then pull the door closed behind you - without having to go out again, release the latch, try to pull the door closed... only to have it latch open again.

From a guy with bad knees, just saying...

Foiled Again · 09-15-2018, 02:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steamguy

A way to keep the door from latching open, so you can step in, then pull the door closed behind you - without having to go out again, release the latch, try to pull the door closed... only to have it latch open again.

From a guy with bad knees, just saying...

Remove the plastic latch from the door. Spray hole with 303 corrosion X and reinsert screw.

Or remove spring from latch on side of trailer and manually lock door open when wanted.

Adventure.AS · 09-15-2018, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steamguy

A way to keep the door from latching open, so you can step in, then pull the door closed behind you - without having to go out again, release the latch, try to pull the door closed... only to have it latch open again.

From a guy with bad knees, just saying...

If our trailer is level the door will stay open at the 90° position. Or if slightly slanted to the curb side it will always swing back to 90°.

Steamguy · 09-16-2018, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adventure.AS

If our trailer is level the door will stay open at the 90° position. Or if slightly slanted to the curb side it will always swing back to 90°.

<Forehead slap>
This was our first time out with the Airstream; it now has come clear to me that the 'wonderful idea' of the bubble level glued to the jack is not such a wonderful idea after all. Or it would be, if the level was correct.

As soon as I can find my regular bubble level, I'm going to check it. I suspect we were fairly far out of level. Even by eye, once I got home I set the fore/aft level on the Airstream and noticed the bubble wasn't showing correctly.

Thank you...

pcskier · 09-16-2018, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steamguy

<Forehead slap>
This was our first time out with the Airstream; it now has come clear to me that the 'wonderful idea' of the bubble level glued to the jack is not such a wonderful idea after all. Or it would be, if the level was correct.

As soon as I can find my regular bubble level, I'm going to check it. I suspect we were fairly far out of level. Even by eye, once I got home I set the fore/aft level on the Airstream and noticed the bubble wasn't showing correctly.

Thank you...

The bubble level on top of the jack needs to be calibrated. First, level the trailer using other means. Then, adjust the three screws around the bubble level on the jack until the bubble is centered. It's no calibrated. But even then, I don't rely on it because if the entire plastic jack head assembly moves a bit, then the level is thrown off again. Just get 4 inch bullet level from Hope Depot. Or, use the level app on an iphone (swipe left after opening the compass function.) It is quite accurate.

trucker101 · 09-16-2018, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steamguy

A way to keep the door from latching open, so you can step in, then pull the door closed behind you - without having to go out again, release the latch, try to pull the door closed... only to have it latch open again.

From a guy with bad knees, just saying...

I had that on a motor home I used to own. All I had to do was pull the inside door handle to release it?

Foiled Again · 09-26-2018, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steamguy

A way to keep the door from latching open, so you can step in, then pull the door closed behind you - without having to go out again, release the latch, try to pull the door closed... only to have it latch open again.

From a guy with bad knees, just saying...

Works well except in high wind conditions...

Open door fully and REST it on the latch, just not hard enough to engage the latch. Enter and then pull the handle. 99% effective.

Mollysdad · 09-26-2018, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trucker101

I had that on a motor home I used to own. All I had to do was pull the inside door handle to release it?

Me too, but the motorhome doors only open 90 degrees. You can reach the inside handle from the inside.
On the Airstream the door opens 180 degrees so you can't stay inside and reach the latch.