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Old 09-11-2019, 07:43 AM   #21
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The 5th wheel next to me needed about 2 inches to get level side to side. Instead of raising her up, he moved 2 inches of stone making two depressions for his tires to sit in.

Not sure about you, but I never saw that before.
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Old 09-11-2019, 08:00 AM   #22
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Ditto Turk123 - did the same - very happy with that!

Great idea on the digging out instead of ramping up, majorairhead! Like the kid who solves the truck stuck under the bridge by suggesting to let air out of the tires.....
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Old 09-11-2019, 08:01 AM   #23
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Great Idea! Never thought of that one and it is easy to do.

I have another. Not so much a trick, but can become a problem without knowing the correct answer. I assumed I knew what it was with my first trailer and stripped all the threads.

The tip is the four fasteners (I hesitate to call them screws) that hold down the protective shaded plexiglass panels on the front of most of our trailers. The fasteners are not traditional screws, they are 1/4 turn fasteners. Turn more than 1/4 turn and you've stripped them and they require removal of the two rivets and replacement of the entire bracket. Don't turn more than 1/4 turn!!

Turk,
Those are Southco fasteners for quick access. Yes they are only a quarter turn and have been used by Airstream for years.


https://www.southco.com/en-us/81-82-85


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Old 09-14-2019, 12:12 PM   #24
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Learned another trick while getting ready to leave the campground a few days ago.

It rained all night so our plastic weave rug was soaking wet when I went to fold it up. Just fold it as usual (two folds then roll it up) and put a cord around it. Stand it up on the picnic table tall wise and watch the water drain out of it. Drys out by the time everything else is put away!

Now if I would have opened awning after moving the rug off the ground, the rug would have started a lot dryer!
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:02 AM   #25
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This thread is quickly becoming one of my favs. Thanks all.
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Old 09-15-2019, 02:08 PM   #26
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I usually do not like to get my face too close to propane and spark at the same time. I will just use the BBQ lighter.
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:05 PM   #27
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Boondocking and your coach battery low? No need for a generator. Pull your TV nose in. Start it up and run jumper cables from it to airstream battery. Itíll be charged in minutes.
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:27 PM   #28
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I put a water shutoff on the trailer side of the water hose. That lets me turn on shore water, run water through, turn off, then connect. Keeps air out of the lines which cause the BAM you get turning on the water in the trailer after hookup. I also use a 90į connector at the water inlet that I leave on the trailer to reduce hose strain.
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Old 09-15-2019, 09:37 PM   #29
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mojo, Post 18: The switches are JR products, but I couldn't find any 3-way switches with pilot lights. Do you have source in mind?
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:18 PM   #30
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Replacing the hall closet door hinges with 180 degree hinges makes it so much easier to get things in and out not to mention allowing the DW to pass instead of waiting until I finish. Another trick was finding plastic storage drawers to fit in 1 side of the closet. Adds a lot of storage.
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Old 09-17-2019, 09:33 AM   #31
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I only have the one loop on my street side awning. Nice find!

My simple trick is for filling the FW tank.

I have a 27FB with an outdoor shower. One day at a campground, I was going to disconnect my hose from the city inlet to fill the FW tank when it dawned on me, I could just use the outdoor shower hose, without the shower head of course, and stick it in the FW tank to fill it and not have to disconnect the city water. I was so proud of myself when I figured that out
I use a "Y" splitter on the spigot. I have the typical water hose to the inlet plus a shorter hose with a nozzle. The splitter has a shut off for each of the outputs so you can turn one off, remove the nozzle and put the hose in the fresh water fill. Having a nozzle to spray things around the camp comes in handy.

When hooking up the AS supply water hose, before connecting it to the AS I turn on the water to get all the air out of the line and the water filter. I hold up that end of the hose, turn off the water and make the connection.
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Old 10-01-2019, 05:31 PM   #32
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I've had a problem with all the grease on the stinger of the ProPride hitch. I try my hardest to be careful not to brush up against it with my pants, and then I do it again. Black dirty grease!!!

I was following a thread here and discovered a miracle product called T-9.

T-9 is a paraffin-based lubricant and corrosion control. You spray it on and it eventually over a few hours hardens to a slippery surface that is not sticky. It does not attract dirt.

I cleaned all the grease off the stinger and sprayed the surface of the stinger and the entire receiver with the T-9. It looks great and is a very slippery surface. It also will prohibit rust. I'm a believer!

No more grease stains on the pants!!
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Old 10-01-2019, 07:23 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turk123 View Post

I was following a thread here and discovered a miracle product called T-9.



T-9 is a paraffin-based lubricant and corrosion control. You spray it on and it eventually over a few hours hardens to a slippery surface that is not sticky. It does not attract dirt.


Ah, thatís great stuff. I use it to coat the tables of my jointer and tablesaw in the woodshop. Great idea to use it for the stinger and receiver (I have been using silicone lubricant which after time can also do a number on pants legs).
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Old 10-01-2019, 08:24 PM   #34
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We will be staying a month at South Padre Island in the coming month. It is known for its salty high humidity air. I originally bought the T-9 to coat the undercarriage of the Airstream to protect it from the salt. I used corrosion X before, but this is a much better product for protection requiring a coating.

Once sprayed on you cannot see it. It applies a coating that is truly corrosion-free.
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Old 10-01-2019, 09:35 PM   #35
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For those who suffer from rainwater getting into their fresh water tank through the freshwater fill, or those who loose 3 gallons every trip down a windy road. (Mainly vintage owners I'm guessing). My fix was to purchase a 2 dollar tapered rubber bung from lowes, drill a hole in it and glue a piece of rope with loop on the end (to pull it back out). The bung then gets pushed into the inlet after each fill to seal off the fill pipe.

It cost me a couple of bucks and works great.
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:17 PM   #36
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On another thread, I discovered that the ProPride manual says to route the safety chains though the inside of the bars. I was not doing that. After rerouting the chains I can see why. If the stringer fails, the chains will hold the Propride head up until you stop. It also lets the chains reach their fullest length when turning.

I guess you should read the manual as I did not!
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:43 PM   #37
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I learned that when opening the front panoramic front side rock shields to clean the windows, DONíT let them swing open. Lift and remove them or they will dent the skin just aft of the hinge. Donít ask how I know this....
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Old 10-02-2019, 08:06 AM   #38
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I learned that when opening the front panoramic front side rock shields to clean the windows, DONíT let them swing open. Lift and remove them or they will dent the skin just aft of the hinge. Donít ask how I know this....
Steve
That's a great tip, Steve. I've almost done this myself. I told my wife this is a two-person job. One to hold the panel, and one to clean behind it.
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Old 10-07-2019, 02:52 AM   #39
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Drip, drip, drip

We are in Nashville and we are experiencing 2-3 inches of rain. Now I'm like most of you guys and love the sound of rain on the roof, but after 12 hours, it starts to make me go batty! Most of the noise emanates from the drum-like sound of the skylights. Especially when under trees.

Remember that white pillow you bought to insulate the fantastic fan in the winter? Stuff it in the skylight and close the shade and it will quiet that drumlike sound. Goodnight.
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Old 11-05-2019, 03:58 PM   #40
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I haven't seen much action here so I thought I would post another tip.

I use to carry a Coleman grill/stove table to accommodate my grill and stove. Set it up in camp, tear it down. Set it up, tear it down. It makes a nice platform to cook on, but it is a little small for all the plates of food when I get cooking.

I recently bought a new grill that is somewhat larger. I converted it to propane from the trailer's quick connect. Since the quick connect is at the front of the trailer, my cooking area has changed. I have a 12 ft. hose to the grill, so what to do. The tailgate!

The tailgate is the perfect size for spreading out your cooking. It is higher than my Coleman table and is just plain easy to use. The hose reaches the tailgate just fine and makes it very convenient to use. When done, just throw the grill back into the truck bed.

Benefit #2: My large cooler is in the back of the truck. It holds the beer. Yep, very convenient.
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