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Old 11-13-2018, 09:59 AM   #29
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Mefly2–very nice. Did you bother with any climate control? Also, what size door did you go with?
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:38 PM   #30
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Is that an epoxy coating?
Yes, epoxy two part gray with colored "sprinkles" for traction and then another two part epoxy clear.

We went with a 12' high / 12' wide dual sliding door to allow the AS to be angled to one side in the barn. 24' x 32' x 12' inside height allows our EB25 to have a nice walk area on both the front and rear of the inside area. We are on a sloped area; so, we added about 4" to the height of the floor base at the highest point allowing for super drainage in the spring thaws...entry ramp bottom is about 10-12 inches below the sliding door threshold.

We purposely left the LED lighting on flexible drop lines closer to the floor to allow for varied positioning of the AS in the barn - we have still not settled on a layout; a new mower has changed the floor layout somewhat.Two sides have insulated windows - and the doors and one long side are window-less to allow for inside storage development. We couldn't yet afford anything for climate control (small retirement budget ) - other than insulating the roof as it was being built... we live in MT; so, humidity is not an issue - just the sometimes bitter cold ! We are also concerned with "critters"; so, there is a place for a cat to patrol the inside of the structure (he has climate control). It is really easing to the mind to no longer worry about mice ...

We are considering wheel dollies to allow easier positioning inside of the "barn".
Our cat is loving the dual shelves for him to stand guard ...
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Old 12-19-2018, 12:41 PM   #31
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We went the barndominium route, and love it.

I built a 60' x 80' red iron building and lumber framed a living space over a 4 car garage. It left a 50'x 60' Airstream hanger.

The building company we used told me 60' wide was the break-over point on width. Any wider and cost went up exponentially.

60' is deep enough to leave the TV and 27FC hitch and close the door.

Full hook-ups are plumbed and the space is heated so no more winterizing!

It has been the right thing for us.


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JD
I spy a motorhome back there!

My wife and I are thinking barndominium in a couple years, 60' deep is the easy limit, I'll remember that!
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Old 12-19-2018, 01:16 PM   #32
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We had a 24' X 24' steel pole barn built with a 12' plate height. Cement floor with epoxy finish.


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Old 12-20-2018, 05:37 AM   #33
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@KelloggKid, @JDalrymple—did you have these built by a local outfit or did you use one of the national companies (e.g. Morton)?
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Old 12-20-2018, 06:33 AM   #34
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I had a 50x60 pole barn built at my house. I live on a runway. Be sure to insulate the roof or you can get condensation dripping on your stuff. Also be careful of cheap low solids epoxy floors. They will lift under your tires so parking on a carpet pad is a good idea. Finish the concrete smooth or dirt and dust will get stuck in all the crannies. I used a clear finish on my floor like you see in grocery stores. One more thing. You can never build big enough.
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Old 12-20-2018, 08:32 AM   #35
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Steel shed possibility

Our 14x30 www.SteelmasterUSA.com serves us well in “climate controlled” coastal Southern California.
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:24 AM   #36
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I used a local contractor build my pole barn. He built my house 10 years earlier and I knew I had a good guy to work with. Others in my neighborhood used Morton.
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:45 AM   #37
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I had a 24 x 24 pole barn with concrete floor put up for a 67 Caravel, 17 foot.
It fits the trailer & an F150. There's not a lot of extra room but at least they are inside.
I do enjoy having all the tools right there with it, instead of having to get them out every time I worked on it.
It has 10 foot side walls so it could have 2- 10 x 10 doors. They put white bubble insulation next to the steel roof.
They said that it would stop the condensation dripping. It does..
In northern Michigan we get rapid temp changes & plenty of condensation.
I'm not sure where the condensation goes & probably don't want to know.
I've enjoyed my building immensely. You won't regret a shelter for your trailer.
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Old 12-21-2018, 09:08 AM   #38
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I built a Cleary Building 18x36 with a 12'x12' door and cement floor 14' sidewalls. I had the excavation already done. Total Cost without excavation was about 22,500. I haven't' gotten my electrician bill yet. But I had to dig power to it and they put in the lights and a few outlets. You will definitely want that so you can plug it in and keep the battery charged etc. You won't need 30 amp though. Just get a 20 amp adapter. I could have gone 20' wide. But this works just fine. Make sure you go with 12' door. I called an RV place and they have 13' doors. That way if you sell the place another RV would be able to get in. Most non Airstreams travel trailers are about 11'6" high. 5th wheels are a different story.

It's not insulated, but that's pretty inexpensive to do. Make sure whatever you do to put vents on the ridge and soffit, plus windows in so that you can get air movement. I have 2 windows on either side I can open up.

Good idea above on clear coating the cement. Easier to clean up.

By the way I went 36' just in case I went to a 30' AS. You never know.

Also make sure to put in 12' wide door. Much easier to back in!
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Old 12-21-2018, 09:53 AM   #39
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I built a Cleary Building 18x36 with a 12'x12' door and cement floor 14' sidewalls. I had the excavation already done. Total Cost without excavation was about 22,500. I haven't' gotten my electrician bill yet. But I had to dig power to it and they put in the lights and a few outlets. You will definitely want that so you can plug it in and keep the battery charged etc. You won't need 30 amp though. Just get a 20 amp adapter. I could have gone 20' wide. But this works just fine. Make sure you go with 12' door. I called an RV place and they have 13' doors. That way if you sell the place another RV would be able to get in. Most non Airstreams travel trailers are about 11'6" high. 5th wheels are a different story.

It's not insulated, but that's pretty inexpensive to do. Make sure whatever you do to put vents on the ridge and soffit, plus windows in so that you can get air movement. I have 2 windows on either side I can open up.

Good idea above on clear coating the cement. Easier to clean up.

By the way I went 36' just in case I went to a 30' AS. You never know.

Also make sure to put in 12' wide door. Much easier to back in!
Pictures? Can you share some pictures? We are thinking about adding one to our place in MT and also in Austin.

We are thinking 30' Classic in the future also...extremely nice inside especially like the lounge! But, I want to wait till they get all these kinks worked out the 30' crowd is posting about...seems there are still a few QC areas they need to fix at AS.
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Old 12-21-2018, 10:07 AM   #40
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@KelloggKid, @JDalrymple—did you have these built by a local outfit or did you use one of the national companies (e.g. Morton)?
We used a contractor local to the N Idaho / E Washington area.
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Old 12-21-2018, 10:14 AM   #41
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I had windows put in too. No matter where I look out of the trailer I can see outside.
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Old 12-21-2018, 10:20 AM   #42
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pictures? Can you share some pictures? We are thinking about adding one to our place in mt and also in austin.

we are thinking 30' classic in the future also...extremely nice inside especially like the lounge! But, i want to wait till they get all these kinks worked out the 30' crowd is posting about...seems there are still a few qc areas they need to fix at as.


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