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Old 12-21-2014, 02:38 PM   #1
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Level calibrated to Lynx blocks.

I just added this to our new trailer, because it has worked so well over the years with our 2007 Safari. It is a block on the jack post holding two bubble levels, and the lateral level has color-coded marks to indicate how many Lynx Leveler blocks are needed under the low side to level the trailer side to side. Then we unhitch and level the for-aft bubble with the jack. It has worked every time.

The color bars under the bubble (nail polish): green = level; yellow = one block; pink = two blocks.

The block is made from scrap wood, primed & painted, aluminum angle glued & screwed to block, angle glued and cable-tied to jack post.

Charlie
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Old 12-21-2014, 02:46 PM   #2
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Well, isn't that just the cutest little thing. Well, maybe not exactly the cutest, but it's right up there. I need one of those, myself.
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Old 12-22-2014, 09:09 AM   #3
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Thanks, terryV. I don't know about qute, but it sure takes the trial and error out of leveling the trailer at a campsite. One look at the bubble on the lateral (side to side) level and you know how many Lynx blocks to put under the tire(s). It has worked every time.

You have to take a close look at the photo. Maybe I should post a closeup...

Charlie
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Old 12-22-2014, 09:51 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by aircampr View Post
Thanks, terryV. I don't know about qute, but it sure takes the trial and error out of leveling the trailer at a campsite. One look at the bubble on the lateral (side to side) level and you know how many Lynx blocks to put under the tire(s). It has worked every time.

You have to take a close look at the photo. Maybe I should post a closeup...

Charlie
Hey Charlie, I get it. Really. I have one on my AS that is calibrated in 2X6 boards. But, now that I'm using the lego blocks, it doesn't work nearly as well.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:12 AM   #5
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I use a torpedo level on the mid belt rub rail on the front and sides of my Airstream. As long as the trailer feels level inside refrigerators are supposed to function normally without being spot on. However that is a neat setup you have there, very creative.

Kelvin
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:16 AM   #6
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Did you have to 'calibrate' the post?

Bob
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:18 AM   #7
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I eyeball side to side level and put a small level in the door for front to back label. I do have a couple of those levels that you stick on the trailer that I have never opened, so I could build something like the OP has- or stick one on the front of the propane cover or jack and continue to use the one in the doorway.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:39 AM   #8
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I've got a 6' piece of aluminum channel and Home Depot cheapo torpedo level. I'll back up to within a couple feet of my target spot, then whip out the above and my blocks. Set up the blocks, test with the level/channel rig. When perfect, back up onto the blocks.

For back/front level, I use the center level on top of the jack.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:46 AM   #9
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Aircampr, very good idea - thanks for sharing.

Sure beats screwing levels to the trailer the trailer skin.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:46 AM   #10
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So, then, have you decided to not use the level on the top of the jack ... or was one not included? I adjusted the bubble with the set screws to match the level of the AS and scribed concentric circles on the jack level to indicate amount of "leveling" needed.
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:46 AM   #11
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My problem is a bit different when trying to level my Airstream Interstate. Depending on the slope, I may need to put leveling blocks under up to three of the four corners— and if a rear corner has to be blocked up, I have to put leveling blocks under both wheels in the dual set. That's a pain, trying to set blocks for the inner wheel of a dual.

I finally found an app for my Android tablet, that lets me enter the length and width of the wheelbase. I lay the tablet on the floor of the van, and using the highest wheel as the zero point, it will tell me how many inches each other corner has to be blocked up. Then I get to play with my big yellow Legos until I've built ramps that high, or as close as I can get, and either drive up or back up onto them. But I have to carry a LOT of blocks just in case I need to block up five of the six tires because a front corner is the high corner.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:11 PM   #12
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Did you have to 'calibrate' the post?

Bob
No, I installed the block on the jack post with the trailer perfectly level (measured on galley counter, (and as it turns out, the A-frame was very close). Then I glued and screwed the bubble levels on the block.

Charlie
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:14 PM   #13
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So, then, have you decided to not use the level on the top of the jack ... or was one not included? I adjusted the bubble with the set screws to match the level of the AS and scribed concentric circles on the jack level to indicate amount of "leveling" needed.
I adjusted the level on top of the jack, but is is not so easy to read, nor to calibrate to the Lynx blocks. Also, having little experience with it, I really prefer these levels which show the two directions independently.

Charlie
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Old 12-23-2014, 05:36 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
My problem is a bit different when trying to level my Airstream Interstate. Depending on the slope, I may need to put leveling blocks under up to three of the four corners— and if a rear corner has to be blocked up, I have to put leveling blocks under both wheels in the dual set. That's a pain, trying to set blocks for the inner wheel of a dual.
I remember having to do that with my B190 (which was only a single rear wheel). Made me wonder if hydraulic jacks like the bigger motorhomes have would fit! It's not bad if the site is only off in one direction, but if it's off in two directions, it gets ugly fast. Sometimes I felt like I needed an automotive repair ramp - and those piles of blocks sometimes look pretty precarious (though I never had one fall). There were times I just wanted to jack up the front of the camper, and put the blocks under the wheel, rather than trying to build a ramp to drive on to them.

Our trailer came with one of these on the front. The lines correspond, roughly, to block height. We usually hit it pretty close, except when the blocks sink into the ground (which will be a problem with any estimation method). The ball inside ours tends to stick, so we have to tap the level repeatedly before reading it - we learned that lesson the hard way when we first bought the trailer.
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Old 12-23-2014, 08:15 AM   #15
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Hey Pro, I don't get why you need to block both wheels of a dual set. Having driven heavy trucks for many years AND in the Army we would change the outer wheel by driving the inner up onto a block. Won't work on todays highway trucks due to the wheel / lug nut design but for the Army trucks worked nicely. Why can't you drive one or the other ( inner / outer wheel) up onto the block ??
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Old 12-23-2014, 08:27 AM   #16
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Hey Pro, I don't get why you need to block both wheels of a dual set. Having driven heavy trucks for many years AND in the Army we would change the outer wheel by driving the inner up onto a block. Won't work on todays highway trucks due to the wheel / lug nut design but for the Army trucks worked nicely. Why can't you drive one or the other ( inner / outer wheel) up onto the block ??
Mainly because you're close enough to the GVWR that you run the risk of overloading the blocked-up tire and damaging it.

If it was an empty Sprinter cargo van, I'd try it. But not with a Sprinter B-van.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:07 PM   #17
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I finally found an app for my Android tablet, that lets me enter the length and width of the wheelbase. I lay the tablet on the floor of the van, and using the highest wheel as the zero point, it will tell me how many inches each other

I would love to knew which app you use, please
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:31 PM   #18
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I finally found an app for my Android tablet, that lets me enter the length and width of the wheelbase. I lay the tablet on the floor of the van, and using the highest wheel as the zero point, it will tell me how many inches each other

I would love to knew which app you use, please
I have two— one is called "T3 Chock," which does what yours does, unfortunately only in millimeters, but at 25mm = 1 inch it's an easy conversion in my brain. It has been a while since I last needed it, and had forgotten it was metric only until I actually looked it up just now. I like it because it lets me enter different wheelbase widths front and rear, an essential for duals.

The other is called "Bubble Level" which is exactly what it sounds like, a bullseye level and fore-and-aft and side-to-side linear levels, plus a readout in degrees x and y.

I use Bubble level first, and if it's close enough I don't bother trying to level my Interstate. If it's off by more than a degree or two, I use T3 Chock, and start building Lego-style leveling block ramps.
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Old 01-15-2015, 03:18 PM   #19
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Level calibrated to Lynx blocks.

You may join the beta here http://www.airforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129154 It includes leveling with the phone inside and the AppleWatch (once available) outside. You may add a 25 US$ wireless accelerometer installed inside and use the phone outside to get directions for leveling etc. Speech output is available too but I believe one needs one of the above combinations to make a convenient leveling tool... The app allows entering wheelbases etc to get directions in inches or metric. I receive a lot of feedback from AS owners, but it is not yet enough, so any help is appreciated.

Harry
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Old 01-15-2015, 04:14 PM   #20
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Folks you really should look at Harry's app. I've been beta testing for several weeks. Pretty amazing app. I will have the wireless accelerometer tomorrow for testing.

Has lots of features, easy to use, graphic depiction of your TV/TT rig and once you enter your weights you can see what happens if you shift weight.

TV performance geeks can plug in an OBDI unit to their TV and see performance data on the iPhone.

And this is just scratching the surface of the features.

Couple Harry's app with the Wireless Backup Camera from Fred Stokes at RV Rearview Cameras and you would have a real nice combo system.
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