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Old 01-28-2011, 06:21 PM   #29
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Just ordered it. Looking forward to a good laugh. Anything Lucy did was very funny.
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:34 PM   #30
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Thank you dznf0g and 2airishuman,

I pulled up the vinyl and there is no indication that the plywood has ever been wet. also the bumper trim is very tight and secure, so I donít think the subfloor is pulling away from the frame/skin.

Yes, It would be the best thing, to remove the trim and have a look-see. but I'm just as likely to screw something else up in the process.

To be honest, I really think the thing to do is seal it and see if it continues to open up.
But I have a bore scope, and I just might try and have a peek in one of the larger openings.

Steve
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:40 PM   #31
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Thank you dznf0g and 2airishuman,

I pulled up the vinyl and there is no indication that the plywood has ever been wet. also the bumper trim is very tight and secure, so I donít think the subfloor is pulling away from the frame/skin.

Yes, It would be the best thing, to remove the trim and have a look-see. but I'm just as likely to screw something else up in the process.

To be honest, I really think the thing to do is seal it and see if it continues to open up.
But I have a bore scope, and I just might try and have a peek in one of the larger openings.

Steve
That's fine. You'll know soon enough if more work is required. Update us as your test run progresses.
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:56 PM   #32
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do as u wish, that's the authority ownership brings...

but one simply cannot tell IF the shell/channel/frame attachment is solid,

by looking at the rub rail.

and cracks in 2 places on the door frame metal suggest that entire section of skin has moved.
________

i could link threads and photos that demonstrate this but won't,

since it seems the path 2bliss is ignoring the deeper potentials.

inspect now, repair properly and the dealer service price is a few 100$.

let it go and the costs only climb.

'it's fine' replies may be wanted, but they are simply false reassurances.

nO1ne here can offer a reliable assessment based on the 2 early pix.

so
_________

HEY i'm sure it's fine, dab a bit of goop on it...

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:40 AM   #33
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I'm not disagreeing with anything 2Air says, I just think that exploratory surgery is not yet warranted based upon the OP's comments and pictures.

I know from prior experience that square cut welded corners on trailers are not the best of designs under even normal circumstances. Why AS gave us a square framed opening instead of radiused corners, like most other openings in the Classics is beyond me. I'm sure it has to due with cost and/or build complexity. Those square frames are very rigid and do not tolerate much flexing at all. I had issues with my prior rear entry door square cut frame SOB, immediately after purchase. I used it for another 17 years without the problem growing.

2Air is correct that there has to have been some overall rear end movement to move the opening frame off square and pop the welds.

However, IMHO, the rest of the rear end is much more tolerant of flexing that the opening frame. We're not talking about inches of flex here, to break the frame on the opening.

Since the OP has not commented on other oddities, like window frame issues, skin wrinkling, popped rivets, etc, I'm just not inclined to "over-diagnose" the situation YET.

Silverbeast, if you want further input, post some more pics of the entire rear end skin, rear windows and any other areas showing skin seams and rivets, etc. Bore scope findings, etc.

My point is NOT to ignore it, but with no other suspicious issues, if you do a reseal and there is excessive movement indicating some structural maladies, the new seal job will separate and open up rather quickly. It is just a good non-intrusive, relatively simple, inexpensive diagnostic test. Re-separation of the sealer in short order would not be normal, IMO. Proper reseal should last several years with proper materials.
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Old 04-02-2011, 01:05 PM   #34
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Update - what was the final cause/solution/remedy?
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Old 04-03-2011, 01:30 AM   #35
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Still working on that.....Well, to be honest, not long after I posted this topic the rainy season really kicked into high gear here in the north bay and I had to resort to duct tape till things start to dry out.

This has been the first week of nice weather and I have not had time to rip in to the silverbeast. But, I think the first step will be to check again for any indication of water damage. Then I will get the gaps filled with the appropriate seam sealer. Then I'm installing a AirSafe Hitch on my PorPride, because I think the 1400lbs. bars I'm running are a little over kill. I have a one ton Dodge and the ride is, well lets say stiff. I don't mind and the dog is ambivalent, but I think the trailer is speaking to me.

I have a plan to see if my gut feeling is correct. It involves using the an accelerometer to test the ride inside the trailer before and after I install the AirSafe.

We shall see.
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Old 04-03-2011, 07:19 AM   #36
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Keep us informed!
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Old 04-03-2011, 08:12 PM   #37
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Still working on that.....Well, to be honest, not long after I posted this topic the rainy season really kicked into high gear here in the north bay and I had to resort to duct tape till things start to dry out.

This has been the first week of nice weather and I have not had time to rip in to the silverbeast. But, I think the first step will be to check again for any indication of water damage. Then I will get the gaps filled with the appropriate seam sealer. Then I'm installing a AirSafe Hitch on my PorPride, because I think the 1400lbs. bars I'm running are a little over kill. I have a one ton Dodge and the ride is, well lets say stiff. I don't mind and the dog is ambivalent, but I think the trailer is speaking to me.

I have a plan to see if my gut feeling is correct. It involves using the an accelerometer to test the ride inside the trailer before and after I install the AirSafe.

We shall see.

Two things that relate. I just removed the plastic from the rear cargo area and pulled the carpet back to see what the plywood looks like back there. Overall it was in great shape. There was some water damage towards the left side. I used a product that acts like an epoxy when dry. It will strengthen the wood in the damaged area and protects it from further damage.

Secondly you will love the airsafe hitch. Make sure you get the larger one. I think its good up to 2000 lbs. The less expensive one will be maxed out with our units.

Let us know what you think.

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Old 04-04-2011, 12:22 AM   #38
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Thanks so much Vinnie! I was just getting ready to PM you about this very thing.

I saw that you talked about the AirSafe/Airride before and I wanted to get your advice. I have sent an email to Sean at ProPride to see if there is a mount available to couple to the stinger and AirSafe and also to get his advice. But I really think it's the way to go to help de-couple some of the hard knocks from our high quality pavement here in norcal.

Glad to hear that you have had go luck with the AirSafe.

I may also be picking your brain about your Hardwood floor in the future.
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