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Old 01-27-2011, 11:30 PM   #15
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Hi, not only the cracks in the storage door frame, but the separation of the lower moulding at the body; It seems that the lower moulding has completely separated from the sealer. If water has been leaking into the storage area for some time and rotted the floor/wood, you could have rear end separation. For your sake, I certainly hope this isn't the case. Also does this trailer have a hitch welded under the rear bumper, or can you see where one was cut off?
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:09 AM   #16
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A must for trailer travlin' folk. My folks took my brother and I to see the movie when it came out in '53...or '54. In '52 we made the ardruous journey to Calif. on RTE 66 towing a travel trailer. That movie made the hard parts of our trip seem laughable... at last. I've got a VHS and DVD of it. The DVD is kept in our Trade Wind for our occasional 'fix'.
Neil
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:06 PM   #17
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Thanks Bob,

Thanks for the heads-up on the molding. It never really was properly sealed in this area, so filling that in is a high priority.

I have looked at the plywood in the rear storage area, and I don't see any indications of a problem. But, Iím not sure I would know a problem if I saw it.

I think what I will do is seal the trim first, with the factory silver stuff. When that sets-up, I will go back with some flexible sealer and fill the area of the crack in the weld.

I don't see any indication of a hitch ever being on the bumper, But I do have some damage to one of the skids (and a jack motor housing). That happened at a dealership that shall remain nameless.

Thanks,

Steve
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:25 PM   #18
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Hi Wabbiteer,

I understand what you mean about bottoming out the rear end. And, as I mentioned to Bob, there was an incident where this happened. It was at a dealership when they moved my trailer with a forklift. This damage could be related to that incident.

The aluminum on the bottom of the trailer looks like itís in very good condition, it doesnít appear to have any damage.

Thanks for your help!
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:35 PM   #19
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Hi dznf0g,

I like the weight theory, but I donít think that I have unreasonable weight in the back storage area. I do like to load up the area under the bed with things like; a case of bottled water, spare bottles of wine and scotch, tool boxes, hoses, and that enormous 50 amp umbilical cord. but in all, I doubt that it amounts to more than 200 or 300 pounds.

What is a moho?? I don't get it.

Steve
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:45 PM   #20
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Hey Steve,

A moho is short lingo for Motorhome.

I too put some things back in that compartment but doubt it weighs more than 100 lbs. My compartment isnt cracking but I had to seal the same trim area to keep the water out. I dont think I have any water damage but the fact is.. the rear cargo area is all carpeted and covered with plastic. This is a bad combination should water get trapped under there. Its my plan to remove the carpet this year and put down a felt type floor covering that can be removed.

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Old 01-28-2011, 12:50 PM   #21
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Hello Vinnie,

Novato to Santa Rosa is the nice commute! I used to get up every morning at 4am to be in SF by 8am. Iím very happy not to have to do that anymore. Now I work form my home.

I must say Iíve been remiss in not attending the Northern California rallies. Itís not for lack of interest but my work schedule just hasnít allowed for it yet.

My last big trip was to Death Valley by way of Reno. If I had known what poor shape the Donner pass is in, I probably wouldíve gone the other way through Southern California. Honestly, I thought I would lose the fillings in my teeth. It might as well be a dirt-road.

Well, Iím sure we will run into each-other one of these days!

Steve
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:56 PM   #22
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Yeah, I know what you mean. I think I will pull up the plastic in the back and have a good look at the wood. I don't think the molding was ever sealed properly, so water could have been going in for two or three rainy seasons completely unchecked. And you know how much it’s rained around here!

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Old 01-28-2011, 01:01 PM   #23
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These trailers are heavy and from what i can tell the frame is beefy due to the slide but there is still considerable flex by design. Cracks happen and can be resealed. Nice that its in the aluminum trim and not the actual skin. Leakage is a bigger concern. Not sure what happened at the RV dealer when it dragged bottom but stress to only one side of those drag rails will flex the body and possibly tweak those square joints of the compartment. My driveway is steep and Im always watching for drag on my way in and out for this very reason.

Let me know if you need any help with anything.. Im close by.

Vinnie
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:17 PM   #24
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Hi Wabbiteer,

I understand what you mean about bottoming out the rear end. And, as I mentioned to Bob, there was an incident where this happened. It was at a dealership when they moved my trailer with a forklift. This damage could be related to that incident.

The aluminum on the bottom of the trailer looks like it’s in very good condition, it doesn’t appear to have any damage.

Thanks for your help!
Since everyone is entitled to an opinion (even me), mine is that it is 95% likely that this incident caused the damage. I bet it struck with more force on one side or the other and the resulting twisting moment on the frame caused the crack, and possible the other problem.

Ken
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:39 PM   #25
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I think you are right Ken. In 20/20 hind sight, I should have stayed with the trailer and not just dropped it off at the deal for three weeks.
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:40 PM   #26
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Thanks Vinnie!
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:49 PM   #27
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I have been looking at this crack grow in size, and now it looks like the trim is also separating.
the pix show cracking/splinting in the storage compartment frame metal AND welds and frame sealants.

we can't determine from the pix where it started and how it's migrated.

it also appears the acryl-r used to seal the rub rail has split.

again the CLOSE up pics are good 4 seeing this, but provide little more info...

a few larger views would be nice, might reveal more but still aren't the same as in person inspection.

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...I have looked at the plywood inside the storage compartment and I don't see any dry-rot , but I could be wrong...
unless this unit was special ordered without carpet, there is carpet IN that underbed storage space.

the carpet is simply stapled at the perimeter, so it's easy to pull back for viewing.

if ordered without carpet the space will have vinyl which is also simply stapled at the perimeter.

pulling BACK whatever is there is important IF one wants to evaluate the plywood sub flooring.

the outer few inches of subfloor are 'coated' with black stuff, and somewhat more resistant to moisture contact ,

but not continuous or massive water exposure.

pull the flooring up and inspect.



Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBeast View Post
...Any idea what I should do?...
lots of ideas here, but not nearly ON POINT as i read them...

-it would help to know a bit more about the issues...

like when it was first noticed and how it's progressed specifically.

the history of being moved by a forklift could be relevant, but only with more details...

((for example was it towed by a forklift or LIFTED, or scooted, entire REAR lifted or just one side and so on...))

even with a COMPLETE history and real time video of suspected event,

we (U) still might not 'know' what the degree or extend of damage resulted.
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frames for the slide units have structural reinforcement bits NEAR the slide and front end...

i am aware of NO difference to the frame behind the axles on these slide units...

and while the classic frames are OK, there are many of us to believe they are STILL INADEQUATE...

and that the CONNECTIONs between frame/flooring/shell are INADEQUATE.

regardless, that debate doesn't help in determining degree and extent of the issues which might exist.
____________

imo the rub rail needs to be COMPLETELY REMOVED, so that the shell/C channel/frame connections can be inspected.

rub rail removal is easy and need only extend as far as the endcap/side rivet line on each side.

1. pull the fake chrome vinyl bumper strip out of rail channel (secured with double stick stuff)

2. remove the SCREWS and cut the sealant holding the channel to the skin...

3. remove the rub rail channel from the CENTER, laterally to the edge of the end cap...

4. inspect the rivets, rivet holes and panel edging (ALL of this is under the rub rail channel)

IF the rivets are loose or moving this will be obvious, follow around both sides to find the area where it STOPS.
_________

one simply can't know IF there are any issues UNDER the rub rail, without removing it.

looking inside at the plywood is simply looking for PROLONGED water exposure, it tells us nothing about the cause...

and the hidden significant problem may not be long term enough to cause wood rot, yet.

it's possible the fake vinyl insert will surface crack and need to be replaced (easy to do)

it's possible the rub rail channel has a few rivets AND screws attaching it to the shell...

it's possible the owner is UNcomfortable attempting the removal, REinstall and any repairs needed.

and it's possible that NOTHING is weak/loose/moving/damaged under the trim...

and the cracks were caused by aliens or sun spots or superficial obamanomics...

but SOMEONE needs to dig into this deeper, before slathering goops on it.

for example the UNDER side edge of the rub rail is NOT fully sealed by intention.

this lets moisture OUT

but might also channel ANY water pooling on the bumper top, DEEP into the skin/frame connections.

a bad thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBeast View Post
...What type of sealant should I use?...
this is premature until the issues are fully discovered.

repair depends on WHAT is broke'd and to what EXTENT there are problems.

the rub rail channel is simply sealed with acryl-r...

but that won't work well on gaps that are E X P A N D I N G, or larger than 2-3 mm.

polyurethane sealants like sika' 721 or parbond are used on exterior gaps with great success...

but IF the cracks/gaps are growing it will hide this for awhile,

or worse, let water in and TRAP that water.
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so as professor a. friend, the unknown helper,

repeats several times in the book/movie disclosure...

and JUST when the flawed hero thinks he's won...

"find/solve the problem"


cheers
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:42 PM   #28
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It's definitely worth investigating the cause, as I stated way up the post line. But, I'm not sure the moulding is pulled away from the trailer at all. It's kind of hard to tell from the pics, but I will tell you that on the Classics, you have an extra layer of "stuff" between the moulding and the skin. The plastic and fiberglass "rolls" up vertically from the horizontal surface of the bumper top and is sandwiched between the moulding and the skin. This and the radiused nature of the top inner moulding surface makes it look like a big gap.

Then when the original sealer cracks and shrinks, as mine did, it gives the illusion of a gap. Test for tightness of the mouding. If it moves at all with moderate pressure with your fingers, then you probably have bigger issues to address.

More pics might help. BTW this rolled up lip GREATLY reduces the chances of water migrating from the top bumper surface to the flooring. The joints between the 3 bumper sections could allow a path, but it is pretty unlikely for water to migrate up about 1" to get over the rolled lip. Insert PRESSURE WASHER CAUTION HERE.

HOWEVER, water will run into that area very readily with cracked sealer on the top of the moulding. AS 2Air says, don't seal the bottom.

I would also advise, if the sealer is deteriorating here, it is elsewhere along that moulding as well. Reseal the entire perimeter of the trailer. Because (I think) the upper belt moulding is smaller and not so raduised on the upper edge, it was not as bad on my trailer. I just spot repaired the areas where the moulding had to cross over a seam where the gaps are bigger.
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