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Old 12-23-2013, 06:34 PM   #15
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2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,190
Just a suggestion....I always fill my tank till it overflows. I would suggest using parbond to seal the backside around the fill neck, the vent neck and the 2 rivets that keep the fill neck strap in place. This will prevent any water from back-flowing between the walls. Not sealing won't allow a lot of water in there, but I don't even like a few drops getting to the floor and c-channel.


"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:48 AM   #16
1 Rivet Member
1987 32' Excella
Hudson , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 8
Originally Posted by BAB View Post
This complete's the "deplastization" of my exterior. Replaced: WH Door with SS, Vent with SS, Furnace door with SS, all exterior electrical inlets with Furrion SS, AND today: the dreaded water fill -- which (as already posted) just became available in SS. OK, around $200 (including shipping), but WORTH it. For those who want to do the water fill, it was slightly too large, had to cut about 1/32" from the panel. Also, it would have been nice if the factory and given me just about another inch of plastic vent line. Photos of fill door and Furrion...
Where did you get the SS fresh water door?

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Old 06-14-2014, 10:40 PM   #17
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,900
Look at in their stainless steel upgrades, and you should find it on the second page.

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