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05-30-2010, 05:15 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
2007 25' Classic
Port Angeles
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 244
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Fitment/alignment/security of small curved compartment doors
There are small curved compartment doors at the bottom edge on the road side of the trailer and they don't look like they close as 'straight' as I would think they should. So the other day, I started to bend one to make a better fit...but I decided that it probably looked better now, than it would broken off... so I decided to leave them alone.
Today we installed new weather stripping because the existing stuff was in tough shape. I had hoped that the new weather stripping (the same size as the stuff removed) was going to help straighten out the fitting of the doors. It didn't. I also noted that some of the closure hasps are either loose or so tight that they are strained.
So, I guess I need to know if this is a common issue and if it's one that most folks just get used to?
Also, do these trailers come stock with weather stripping on these doors or might this be something installed by the PO, possibly resulting in tweaking the door/hinges/hasps?
Thank you for any help,
Dan
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05-30-2010, 05:35 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gator113244
There are small curved compartment doors at the bottom edge on the road side of the trailer and they don't look like they close as 'straight' as I would think they should. So the other day, I started to bend one to make a better fit...but I decided that it probably looked better now, than it would broken off... so I decided to leave them alone.
Today we installed new weather stripping because the existing stuff was in tough shape. I had hoped that the new weather stripping (the same size as the stuff removed) was going to help straighten out the fitting of the doors. It didn't. I also noted that some of the closure hasps are either loose or so tight that they are strained.
So, I guess I need to know if this is a common issue and if it's one that most folks just get used to?
Also, do these trailers come stock with weather stripping on these doors or might this be something installed by the PO, possibly resulting in tweaking the door/hinges/hasps?
Thank you for any help,
Dan
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Access doors are equipped with a gasket as original equipment.
Andy
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05-30-2010, 05:44 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
2007 25' Classic
Port Angeles
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Access doors are equipped with a gasket as original equipment.
Andy
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Thank you Andy, that helps.
Just so that I am clear, is "gasket" the same as the black foam sticky-back weather stripping?
Dan
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05-30-2010, 05:50 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gator113244
Thank you Andy, that helps.
Just so that I am clear, is "gasket" the same as the black foam sticky-back weather stripping?
Dan
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Yes.
Why there is a problem with fitting, I don't know.
A new gasket can be installed on the jamb instead of the door, being careful to relocated it to stop the water leak.
Andy
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05-30-2010, 05:53 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gator113244
Thank you Andy, that helps.
Just so that I am clear, is "gasket" the same as the black foam sticky-back weather stripping?
Dan
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Dan.You can check out the gasket fit, with a fairly new dollar bill.
Place the bill over the gasket while holding one end of it in your hand. Then close the access door.
Move the bill around the gasket and see if you can find a "no resistance" spot. That would tell you where the leak is at.
Andy
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06-09-2010, 11:32 AM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1989 25' Excella
San Andreas
, California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 60
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I do not have a problem with a gasket, but I do need the door. I believe it is called the power cord compartment. It is located forward of the rear banana skin. I have been able to locate replacements for the banana skins front and rear roadside, at Inland RV. Does anyone know where I might locate a replacement door? 1989 Excella.
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06-09-2010, 01:16 PM
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#7
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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On my trailer, there is a curved door covering the water inlet, and also one covering an auxiliary compartment. The fit is, how shall we say, not entirely satisfactory.
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08-02-2010, 08:26 PM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member
2007 31' Classic
Kansas City
, Missouri
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 300
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Friends: The three curved doors on my trailer's exterior compartments do not fit well either. And because of the bad fit, the gaskets, as Andy calls them, have deteriorated. And because the gaskets and doors don't seal out the weather, there is rust, corrosion and dirt inside the compartments. And, of course, anything I store in these compartments is subject to road grime and water damage. Other than constantly cleaning, spot painting and protection of the stored items, I don't see a good fix. But I'm open to suggestions. Best wishes, John
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08-02-2010, 09:23 PM
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#9
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_
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, .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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this is a LONG TIME issue/problem or 'feature' of a/s trailer and mohos dating back 40 years.
the doors are basically flat stock bent to a specific curve, sorta.
the is no GASKET on these flimsy covers, never has been.
there is a OUTDOOR TOLERANT open cell FOAM used that has a peel n stick adhesive, but it's NOT a real gasket.
a/s sells the stuff and it's probably available elsewhere.
it DOES degrade over time depending on how much water, sand, salt and crud it's exposed to.
the foam is really only there to keep the DOORS from rubbing on the frame paint.
there is NO attempt to 'seal' those lower compartments and i would not recommend trying to do that...
unless planning to ADD better latches and hinges, in other words...
REdesigning/building the curved covers.
the GOOD thing bout the crappy foam is it will LET WATER OUT...
a closed cell or automotive door style butyl gasket would KEEP the water inside...
water and salt and dirt WILL get inside them unless you are willing to totally redo the mechanism.
so it is best to keep chocks, boards, hoses, cords or other stuff that is TOTALLY weather/crud proof in them...
or BAG anything u don't want to get dirty, riding inside.
_________
it's also NOT a great idea to try bending or REshaping them...
the paint will peel off.
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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08-03-2010, 08:41 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBinKC
Friends: The three curved doors on my trailer's exterior compartments do not fit well either. And because of the bad fit, the gaskets, as Andy calls them, have deteriorated. And because the gaskets and doors don't seal out the weather, there is rust, corrosion and dirt inside the compartments. And, of course, anything I store in these compartments is subject to road grime and water damage. Other than constantly cleaning, spot painting and protection of the stored items, I don't see a good fix. But I'm open to suggestions. Best wishes, John
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A good gasket, properly installed, remedy's the issue.
Andy
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08-03-2010, 12:19 PM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member
2007 31' Classic
Kansas City
, Missouri
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 300
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Thank you all for the feedback. The Airstream part no. for the low density foam used on my camper is #365013 and I need 11 feet of it to do the job. I assume that the foam will only stick well if the surfaces are very well prepared. So that’s a big job to remove the old foam adhesive and reinstall new foam. I think I’ll go out to a local state park for a couple of days of maintenance and marshmallows. Best wishes, John
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08-03-2010, 01:07 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBinKC
Thank you all for the feedback. The Airstream part no. for the low density foam used on my camper is #365013 and I need 11 feet of it to do the job. I assume that the foam will only stick well if the surfaces are very well prepared. So that’s a big job to remove the old foam adhesive and reinstall new foam. I think I’ll go out to a local state park for a couple of days of maintenance and marshmallows. Best wishes, John
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That part number is for screen door gasket, which is an open cell gasket, meaning it does not stop water from flowing thru it.
Andy
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