1967 Rear Electric Access Door Invites Mice!!

[Diogenes]

We have a 1967 Overlander. The rear has a flip up door beneath the window where our electric cord plugs in. It also is an open invitation for mice to move in. :/

The entire area Behind the rear flip up door has openings that lead directly into the rear bathroom. The openings also run along a convenient mouse highway where the pipes and electric go through the cabinets.

I have sealed but I need a more permenant solution for closing off that rear compartment. Anybody had this problem?

[eubank]

Yes, it does. I just cram about a half of an old sock into the hole with the cord.

Lynn

[Diogenes]

Lynn,

I don't have just a hole. The whole back flap is open because of the electrical cord passing through the rear door. Where does your electrical cord come in?

Warmly,

Beth

[eubank]

Same on our 67: There's a little hinged flap with spring, and the hole behind it is rectangular. When just the electric leads through the rectangular hole, there is plenty of room for a mouse. Plus a nice path up the electric cord itself leading right to the hole. What an invitation!

But like I said, I just stuff an old sock into that part of the hole that it's taken up by the cord.


Lynn

[JRF0st3r]

Our '67 safari had the same issue. We had a new access hatch made without the mouse hole and then routed the shore cable down inside the bumper "trunk". I think later models used this route to avoid the hole. You could read more about our experience and solution at our Air Forums log under "Trailers" for the Jim & Jane's 1967 Safari.
I do NOT recommend getting your new hatch from Inland RV. We made two other doors with parts from VTS and these turned out great at much less cost.
Jim

[Diogenes]

Wow! That is a nice neat looking job. Ours came to us looking messy. I'll have to look through your log more thoroughly. Thanks for the input. For now, here is a picture of our rear door.

Ugh, can't figure out how to post pics, I'm new to this. Will post soon.

[Diogenes]

So we are currently attaching the electrical cord through the bottom of the rear door, as shown. This is how the seller had been doing it. I wonder if this was the original design?

The second picture shows the inside of the rear door. It is rather messy, and messier now that I tried a little expanding foam to hold a bunch of steel wool in place. There are too many gaps. I have sealed the bathroom from the inside the best I can, but I can feel a breeze blowing on my feet from that open rear door.

I know there must be many other access points beneath the trailer as well. But for now, I am focusing on a solution for the largest and easiest one of all, the rear door.

[HankO]

I too had this problem while camping this Fall in my 28' Excella. I caught the little bugger before he brought all his buddies in and then I broke camp shortly after. I believe he got in by running up the electrical cord, so I was thinking that if I built a device that would go around it, it would stop them from entering. I was thinking about a plastic plate cut from the outside to the center, pulled tight around the cord and taped. I don't know if anyone has tried this or maybe they have a better idea to stop them from traveling up the cord?

Hank

[ijustlee]

Wow, that's a dumb set up, I sometimes wonder what the factory was thinking. If it was mine I'd re-route the cord through holes just big enough to store the cord in the bumper compartment. Or maybe cut a piece of plywood or foam board to seal off the opening when the door is open. Needs something different as not acceptable the way it is for sure. Leland

[minnstream]

I solved this problem by routing wires from the breaker box, through the floor to the bumper storage. I installed a twist receptacle in the frame between the bumper and the trailer so my power cord is detachable. sorry no pictures, my trailer is in storage.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

It's common to lose the rear access hatch. Originally it was removable. They often fly away when not key-locked.



Your hatch door is a refabrication not meeting original AS configuration, and it may not be 2024 T3 alclad. The original jamb appears to be still intact, you can fabricate a period correct hatch door from material available from VTS.


Looks like your back bumper is not original, Who knows?? The refabricated hatch may have been part of collision repair. There is a non-original tell-tale clearance light sized patch above the belt-line extrusion that may be where a floor through-bolt was accessed. The hinge is not OEM by AS.

Cheapest fix; Re-rout the cord into the bumper locker.

Best fix; Install a Marinco or equivalent through-shell connector/plug, street-side aft.

30 Amp/125V Cast 316 Stainless Steel Power Inlet | Marinco

1967 is a great year for Airstreams.

[Diogenes]

Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM

It's common to lose the rear access hatch. Originally it was removable. They often fly away when not key-locked.



Your hatch door is a refabrication not meeting original AS configuration, and it may not be 2024 T3 alclad. The original jamb appears to be still intact, you can fabricate a period correct hatch door from material available from VTS.


Looks like your back bumper is not original, Who knows?? The refabricated hatch may have been part of collision repair. There is a non-original tell-tale clearance light sized patch above the belt-line extrusion that may be where a floor through-bolt was accessed. The hinge is not OEM by AS.

Cheapest fix; Re-rout the cord into the bumper locker.

Best fix; Install a Marinco or equivalent through-shell connector/plug, street-side aft.

30 Amp/125V Cast 316 Stainless Steel Power Inlet | Marinco

1967 is a great year for Airstreams.

I'm new to this...how do you find out what's original? Are there photos as well?

The previous owner said he put a new bumper on to accomodate the sewer hose. Perhaps there was another reason...the title was clean, but I suppose a small collision would not be listed. In nearly 50 years who knows what this little trailer has been through, haha.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

“I'm new to this...how do you find out what's original? Are there photos as well?”


You can find various rear images of 67/68 AS with a lot of internet searching. The restoration threads on this forum are well illustrated. Huge projects.


Your hatch/shore-line configuration can be remedied with negligible cost and a day's hassle
by re-routing the cord into the bumper locker. That will allow you to close the hatch. Your shoreline will then have to coexist with your black tank drain hoses and whatever else you keep in there.


“The previous owner said he put a new bumper on to accomodate the sewer hose”


The original bumper does not interfere with the accommodation of the sewer hose. Don't worry about the bumper, you've got bigger fish, and mice, to fry. Not too many original condition vintage Airstreams anyway.


My 1968 GT has had dozens of atrocities performed on it throughout its years, beginning in 1967 at Jackson Center. I'm in my fifth year of fixing them. I have no unrealistic fantasy that it will ever be "finished", I do enjoy camping with it...


Enjoy the journey...