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Old 11-12-2014, 03:56 PM   #1
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Winterizing questions

We are back in New Jersey and expecting freezing temperatures soon I have emptied the lines by using air but think I should use anti-freeze in my systems.

The trailer is a 1964 ambassador that was redone and is not standard and have a few questions:

1. There is no drain on my water tank and I am assuming it is empty I will run the pump to doublecheck this my question is: do I put a little anti-freeze in my freshwater tank? (I do know to use the non-toxic kind)

2. It appears my hot water tank does not have a bypass valve does this mean I have to fill the 6 gallons with anti-freeze so I can pump through the rest of the system?

Would any one mind looking at the following photos and suggesting what to do?

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Old 11-12-2014, 04:45 PM   #2
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If you are able to get the water out of the fresh water tank, it is not necessary to put antifreeze in it.
If you cannot bypass the water heater, can you drain it, then install a bypass? Otherwise you will have no choice but to fill it with 6 gallons of antifreeze.
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:49 PM   #3
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I get mine done. I do Spring work but not winterizing. I will add more anticreeze to what my rv guy uses.
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:58 PM   #4
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You have several weeks yet before you have to worry about freezing. In the mean time put a bypass on the hot water heater. You have enough room there to work.

In the absence of a drain if possible tilt the trailer to the suction side of the fresh water tank and pump it dry.

Drain the hot water heater and set the bypass to winter. Using the pump, hooked up before the filter shown in the picture, pump in the antifreeze while drawing it from the closest faucet to the pump, hot and cold side. Work you way to the other faucets. Put about 8 oz. of antifreeze in each trap and cover the valve in the toilet.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
You have several weeks yet before you have to worry about freezing. In the mean time put a bypass on the hot water heater. You have enough room there to work.

In the absence of a drain if possible tilt the trailer to the suction side of the fresh water tank and pump it dry.

Drain the hot water heater and set the bypass to winter. Using the pump, hooked up before the filter shown in the picture, pump in the antifreeze while drawing it from the closest faucet to the pump, hot and cold side. Work you way to the other faucets. Put about 8 oz. of antifreeze in each trap and cover the valve in the toilet.

Thanks HowieE -- when I take out the drain nut (has a long thin rod attached to nut) on the outside of the airstream there is a white mushy substance there like wet chalk. Any idea what that is? Could it be calcium? And if so is it a problem?
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:51 AM   #6
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Is the water heater in the picture missing the metal mixture slide that adjusts the flame output? Mine looks similar but has the slide on it where the opening is on the Gas input. Upon blowing up the picture, I am not seeing the screw hole to hold it in place. Just wondering if that heater is noisy
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:44 AM   #7
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Yes the flame adjuster is missing. Most likely the last person that took a spiders nest out of the burner tube did not think it was necessary.

The rod that is attached to the drain plug is an anode. The anode is there to allow the water to attack something other than the tank itself. It will dissolve over time. The white crud is aluminum oxide. When i drain the heater I put a 1/4 rubber tube into the drain hole that rests on the bottom of the heater. It will drain the last 1/2 gallon out of the heater, not to worry if you don't drain that water, and it pulls out some of the crud off the bottom of the heater.

In the spring slowly fill the heater or let it sit for an hour before you open a faucet. Failure to do this that crud will be stirred up and clog the strainers in your faucets.
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