Winterizing question

[PatCrusse]

I live in central Virginia. It commonly gets down to the mid twenties during January and Febuary. I have read a lot about winterizing RVs, but I am hoping to do some winter traveling.

Is it possible to just leave the heater running while my '74 Tradewind is sitting in my driveway? If so, what temperature should I set my thermostat to? How long could a tank of LP last if it is only being used for heating?

Thanks,
Patrick

[74Argosy24MH]

How long could a tank of LP last if it is only being used for heating?

How big a tank?

The only safe way is to winterize. When you run out of propane (they always run out at 3 am) or the heater fails it will cost more in time and money than properly winterizing.

John

[PatCrusse]

OK. I know that this is sure to spark a lot of good laughs, but I have to ask...

I have natural gas connected to my home. Is it possible to plum a gas line to my A/S while it is parked in my driveway? Are liquid propane and natural gas interchangable?

I'm sure I know the answer, but couldn't hurt asking.

[thenewkid64]

If you guessed no, you were right. The pressures are not the same and I think you would need a diffrent gas jet for the appliances to be usable.

BTW I like the spark pun in a thread abut a flammable gas!

[ALANSD]

Pat-
I had some winterizing anxiety myself last year, my first as an owner. I bought in Nov. and it got cold right away when I got it home. Having never done the routine before, I wondered if it would go well. Really it was easily accomplished, using the pump to suck antifreeze into my system, and draining the hot water tank and all. In fact I undid it to take a week long Fla trip, and redid it again when I got back. Maybe overkill, but the temps dropped into the 20's here right after that trip.

[74Argosy24MH]

Install a water heater bypass and an adapter to draw the antifreeze straight out of the bottle into the pump. The water heater, fresh and waste water tanks should all be empty. Run antifreee through the pump to flush the lines, let it run long enough to fill the traps. It is a 15 minute job if you take a break and safer than trying to keep it heated all winter.

Check the posts about furnaces failing. These are old and some parts can't be found, total replacements are expensive. No sense putting a lot of hours on it and not having heat when you need it.

John

[PatCrusse]

Thanks everyone. I agree that winterizing is the most logical way to go. I install irrigation for a living so the idea of blowing out water lines doesn't scare me. I just have a dream of using my A/S with little notice during the winter.

To be honest, I just got the trailer a little over a month ago. My wife also had our first born at the same time. So... I currently fittle around with the A/S a couple of times a week just to escape crying. I would also love to be able to come home from work on a Friday and "load and leave" on a whim (with the family of course)

I think that I am going to talk to a local propane dealer here and see what it would run for a 100lbs tank and how much it would cost to fill. Then, maybe I could just have them fill it once a month during the winter months.

I'm not ignoring your recomendations. You all definately have more experience than I do with A/S's, but I just have to check. I'll read those posts about heater failure.

Thanks

[RoadKingMoe]

There are a few campgrounds here in Ohio where folks live year round. And they rent a coupla 100 lb bottles from the gas company, who just comes out and swaps a bottle when it gets empty.

[Edie]

We kept our '77 31' Sovereign heated for about two months in Wisconsin with no ill effects. Just use your common sense. When we returned from our final trip to Florida in January, we winterized for the rest of the season.

1. Check the interior temperatures every day. Twice a day is better. Be sure the furnace is working and your temperature isn't dropping.

2. Have plenty of winterizing anti-freeze on hand. If your furnace fails, you want to be able to protect your coach immediately.

3. Consider using the coach with winterized pipes/tanks. If you are going to campgrounds, they have restroom and shower facilities. You can carry a lot of bottled water on the floor of your shower, even enough for drinking, cooking, brushing teeth, and washing hands.

4. If you winterize, then decide to head to warmer climates, consider flushing your system when you reach your destination. Then you can re-winterize before returning home. It takes a little extra time, but it's not hard. And it's a lot less aggravating than the leaking pipe you can't reach next spring.

[53flyingcloud]

PatCrusse

That's one reason why I've left my unit in Va Beach for the winter. The second reason, is to have a good excuse for coming back during the winter for a "break"..
I just left there this weekend past, even tho it was in the mid 70's I went on ahead and winterized it completely. Took maybe, an hour's time to pull it off. You wanta look for the lil things that no one seems to mention, like your shower wands(both by the "john" and, the one in the shower). The foot valve on the john should be considered as well..I usually just open it and, put a crushed beer can (held by an old shoe string) in the opening.( be sure to have fun, drink the beer first)<BEG>
ciao

[overlander64]

RE: Monitoring Interior Temperature

There is an option when it comes to monitoring the interior temperature of your coach if it is within a short distance of your home. Radio Shack sells a combination Weather Radio/Severe Weather Alert that has a remote reading wireless thermometer. It is supposed to have a range of up to 300 feet - - the wireless thermometer is battery powered. I suspect that the remote wireless thermometer would need to be placed near a window with the view of your house to insure that it would send the data properly from your Airstream.

This little thermometer displays a digital temperature on the interior base station in addition to the temperature of the room where the base station is located. According to my literature, it is desdigned to be mounted outside the house so it should be weatherproof. I have been using this setup to monitor the temperature differential between my unheated basement/crawspace area and the balance of the house - - so far the battery has been in operation for about seven months - - the battery is scheduled to be changed December 1.

Just an alternative to having to make frequent trips to the driveway just to check the temperature.

kevin

[jcanavera]

I was just over at the new Costco here in St. Louis and they are selling these units at about $29. I have one I bought years ago from Sam's club cost $35. On my Sam's unit you can set an alarm on the base unit that will altert you to temperature extremes measured by your remote unit. Great for the freeze warning.

I'm thinking of buying one of these at Costco (since it measures humidty) and retire the old unit to the A/S. Currently I'm using a wired indoor outdoor thermometer. I pass the wire out the door and loop the sensor over the gas line under the door. I'm thinking of taking the old remote unit and possibly setting up a velcro tab on the underbelly. I'll get to my destination and slap the remote onto the velcro. Pull it off on departure. Beats threading the wire.

Jack

[PatCrusse]

Thanks for all the help. I was acctually following the same idea. I have glanced at Radio Shack for the romote temperature monitors. I think that I will check out Sam's club first.

This weekend is a good example of why I don't want to winterize my trailer. It has dropped below freezing several times this fall and it isn't even Decmber yet. I am planning on going on a quick outing to Williamsburg Virginia this weekend. No need to un-winterize; I can just load up and go.

I did do the following... I upgraded to two 40lbs LP cylinders two weeks ago. I also installed a digital thermostat from Lowes ($25.00). I set the temperature pretty low durring the day when it isn't freezing. Then it automaticly raises to 60 degrees at night when the temps falls. Hopefully, this will save some gas. If I find myself refilling the tanks every couple of weeks, I will probably get a 100lbs tank to sit next to the house and hook up while parked.

I have one problem, though. My regulator doesn't seem to be working. When I swich over to the second tank, there is no gas flow. I was thinking of getting a Marshall Automatic Changover gas regulator from Camping World, but they have gotten horrible reviews. Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advanced,
Patrick

[davidz71]

Jack,
I purchased a Oragon Scientific BAR888 wireless barometer/thermometer/clock over a year ago and really like it. It was on sale from a company for $54 but the sale slip is at home so I could not tell you the internet site at this time. I place the main unit on the dresser across from my twin bed in the Airstream and the remote unit with LCD display goes outside on top of my 40 lb. alum. tanks. I am going to purchase another remote unit without LCD display and put it outside then move the beforementioned remote to the inside front area. This way I have an idea of temps in the middle, front and outside areas. This will come in handy during the cold hunting season.

[Pick]

Most propane companies will come out and "set" a tank for a minimal fee. We have a 120 gallon tank here at the house, for our hot water heater and a small 10,000 btu space heater in the office. Last time they filled it, they charged me $1.10 a gallon.

[hex]

Propane to Natural gas on some appliances just consists of an orfice change. I don't remember which has the slightly larger hole.
However I have no idea how hard it would be to get to the orfice in the trailer furnace. And of course you'd have to improvise to supply directly to the heater. I wouldn't think you'd want the Natural flowing to your other appliances (refer,HWHtr.,Cookstove).
Not sure how you'd have an easy time with a Nat.supply/LPG supply transition valve setup.