Trailer weights

davidz71 · 05-26-2002, 12:05 AM

I took my '77 Excella 500 31' to the local metal recycling yard yesterday and had them weigh it. The scales had been calibrated just 2 weeks earlier by State of TN. inspectors so I have a few questions for you. The trailer has full 40 lb. alum. propane tanks, maybe 4 gallons of water split among the fresh/ grey/black water tanks, dishes, pots/pans/utensils and ready for travel other than food.
1st wt. was done with the dual axles centered on the scale and distribution hitch still connected: 5680 lbs.
2nd wt. was street side with tires center of scale: 2840 lbs.
3rd wt. was curb side with tires center of scale: 2740 lbs.
4th wt. was tongue centered on scale with a 20 lb.
cement stepping stone and alum. stand: 1160 lbs.

I had a 32 lb. Cabela's Alaskan guide tent on the street side floor over the axles and several Rubbermaid containers holding gear and clothes on the street side front next to the cradenza which may weigh 40 lbs. I attribute this to part of the 100 lb. difference between sides.

What I am concerned about is the tongue weight with full tanks. Is this a little high? My owner's manual says that the tongue wt. "must not exceed 1000 lbs." Those of you with 31' models, what are your tongue wts. running? Craig

**jcanavera** · 05-27-2002, 02:46 PM

David,
If you are hitched up with a weight distributing platform, some of that hitch weight is transferred to the front wheels of your tow vehicle and the axle of the trailer. Your 1,160 lbs. will not all be on the hitch once you get everything adjusted.

Good for you on getting your trailer weighed. I had mine weighed last spring. It was very interesting too see how the load varied from side to side. In my case the curb side was lighter, but I assume that was to allow for the loads in the curb side closets which at weighing time were empty.

Jack

davidz71 · 05-27-2002, 07:13 PM

Jack,
Thanks for the reply. I was worried that I had too much wt. on the tongue and there wasn't much to move out of the credenza and front area to help much. I definately am not putting much in the rear wardrobe cabinets for fear that will contribute to further rearend seperation. I travel with empty tanks including water heater tank. Craig

**jcanavera** · 05-27-2002, 10:08 PM

Craig,
Have you addressed the rear end separation issue? It obviously is a known problem that A/S has developed a fix for. Normally you can adjust tongue weight issues by shifting loads and I hate to see you having issues that make features of your trailer off limits for use. I assume that someone has confirmed that you are experiencing the sag problem?

Jack

davidz71 · 05-28-2002, 10:32 AM

Jack,
The rear of shell below the rear compartment shows a seperation of approximately 1/2". The previous owners filled this area in with what I believe to be spray-in foam insulation (yellowish looking) and then covered it with silver looking silicone. You can see an ever so slight buldge in the shell on the street side of the trailer and on the curb side on the inside there is a slight seperation from where the inside alum. shell meets the bulkhead between the microwave cabinet and the twin bed. If you stand on the rear bumper, it will flex maybe 1/32" and you can see the silicone flex. It doesn't look real weak but you can see where someone mounted something on the back bumper. The bathroom floor is solid. I do have a soft spot in the floor on the front end. I wonder what the factory charges to take care of rear end seperation and if my understanding is correct that they have to do work on the bath floor, what they would charge to include the front floor panel?

Inland RV Center, In · 05-28-2002, 11:49 AM

David. The cost to repair "rear end separation" varies considerably, depending on how far it has progressed. If the plywood is still good and the rear floor channel is not broken, then your not too bad. If the plywood is gone then usually the rear floor channel (it's between the inner and outer shell, and can't be seen without some disassembly), then your at the end of cost. A minimal cost could be $250.00 to $300.00 on up to over $3000.00, again depending on how bad the problem. Adding extra holdowns, outward of the frame insures no further problem, as long as the running gear is kept in reasonable balance. Lack of proper balance, is the culprit.Andy

**jcanavera** · 05-28-2002, 11:55 AM

Craig,

I think the bulge that you see on the streetside is the classic symptom. Apparently the fix involves welding of some braces on the frame.

You should be able to get some cost estimates from the Jackson Center Service Center or from your closest dealer. Supposedly the problems were during the the Beatrice ownership of A/S in the 70's. It was purported that rear bath trailers showed this sag and it was due to A/S using 4" channel frame and locating the rear gray water tanks in the rear bath area.

I've never seen anyone post the cost for this fix so you might consider educating us all.

Jack