What can be done to prevent an AS from being towed, for security purposes. I have my TT parked in my backyard, and was just thinking about how anyone could drive up, hitch up, and pull away.
As a minimum, put a ball with the shaft cut off up in the coupler (so the trailer can't be towed with a smaller ball) and a padlock on the coupler latch.
You could also sink a large metal loop (rebar for example) deep in concrete in the ground and run a Kryptonite cable through the loop and the tongue A-Frame.
Anything that will take a lot of time, creates noise, or requires tools adds to your security.
Padlocks can be cut off. Better to buy one of the coupler locks that cover the entire coupler (about $35). The key lock itself is completely up inside the coupler where it is virtually impossible to harm. The lock fills the coupler such that a smaller ball cannot be used.
If your trailer has duals, one of the padlockable, expanding chocks that fit between the wheels is useful in several ways.
1. When you are using the trailer, it reduces the motion
2. It chocks the trailer better when up on levelling blocks.
3. If it is set good and tight, it is really difficult to remove.
The expandable chock I have makes it very difficult to get a bolt cutter on the padlock hoop.
If you have a power jack, lower the tongue way down and cut power to the jack. Adds to the time and tools it would take to get the tongue up on a hitch.
A friend padlocks a piece of very heavy chain through the openings in a wheel.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2004 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
Craig. Removing the wheels is another way to delay a theft. But if it's in your yard, run city power to it. Now you could install a "car alarm" that has a motion detector.
Originally posted by Pahaska Anything that will take a lot of time, creates noise, or requires tools adds to your security.
Strongly agree!
Quote:
Padlocks can be cut off. Better to buy one of the coupler locks that cover the entire coupler (about $35). The key lock itself is completely up inside the coupler where it is virtually impossible to harm. The lock fills the coupler such that a smaller ball cannot be used.
Good idea. Master makes a padlock specifically for the coupler latch that has the loop sheilded, and it's even harder to get to the locking bar on a Diskus lock. An 80lb Hensley hitch head locked into the coupler and cabled through the A-frame and overcenter latches is also a bit of a deterent. <G>
Quote:
If your trailer has duals, one of the padlockable, expanding chocks that fit between the wheels is useful in several ways.
1. When you are using the trailer, it reduces the motion
2. It chocks the trailer better when up on levelling blocks.
3. If it is set good and tight, it is really difficult to remove.
The expandable chock I have makes it very difficult to get a bolt cutter on the padlock hoop.
I use chocks on the side on the ground and one of those lockable expanding chocks on the side on leveling blocks. Only way to go on that side.
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If you have a power jack, lower the tongue way down and cut power to the jack. Adds to the time and tools it would take to get the tongue up on a hitch.
A friend padlocks a piece of very heavy chain through the openings in a wheel.
Better yet, run it through adjacent openings on two wheels... one's going up while the other's going down and they won't rotate very far.
In addition to all of the above 'excellent' suggestions, you might try removing the "break away key", as well. This should lock your brakes on the TT.
Just my 0.02 worth.
Originally posted by towner In addition to all of the above 'excellent' suggestions, you might try removing the "break away key", as well. This should lock your brakes on the TT.
Just my 0.02 worth.
Wouldn't the electric brakes drain your trailer batteries in a heartbeat?
It will also burn up your magnets, in a heart beat, AND, it can also detemper the "spindles," if your coach is plugged into city power.
Result, new axles!!
You can leave the breakaway switch pin pulled for no longer than 5 minutes.
Originally posted by Inland RV Center, In It will also burn up your magnets, in a heart beat, AND, it can also detemper the "spindles," if your coach is plugged into city power. Result, new axles!! You can leave the breakaway switch pin pulled for no longer than 5 minutes.
Man... sounds like this is something that needs to be secured from destructive pranksters.
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