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Old 03-17-2018, 08:42 PM   #1
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So you want to put a microwave in a FB25?

One of the the things that gave us pause choosing a FB25 floorplan was loosing the microwave (we wanted the conventional oven for boondocking so a combo microwave/convection oven wasn't our choice.) After a lot of research and head scratching we've been able to add a 700w microwave in the hall closet across from the kitchen. I thought I'd share photos in case this was of interest to others.

Two things make this work that were hard to find. First, you'll need hinges that allow the door to open fully giving access to the full space. This hinge comes from Lee Valley and is part 00B15.72 . You want the half overlay version. As you can see in the photos, you'll need to make the pocket in the door a little bigger but a Frorester bit does that just fine. Drill press is advised. Thanks to Portage to Caravan in this thread for the hinge tip. I flipped the door to hinge on the right to make it easier when cooking. Just turn it upside down.

The second thing that made this work is this particular microwave from Sunbeam. It is shallow enough to go in the cabinet and not so long that it will hit the back wall of the trailer. Mine came from Target for $65. Sunbeam SGS10701. Is it the most amazing cooking experience ever? No. But the damn thing fits. If you get something else, just make sure it's not bigger than this one in any dimension. There is no room to spare.

Finally you'll need bottom mount double extension ball bearing slides. Mine are Accuride 301 - 2590 You could probably do something else and maybe get the platform a little lower which would be helpful if your microwave is taller or longer.

Power for the microwave came from the outlet in the refrigerator service compartment outside. I put in a new double outlet but you could just put in a plug adapter to give you two outlets. One quick hole through the wall under the access panel in the back of the closet and you're there.

Post any questions or suggestions.

https://imgur.com/a/BIdQm
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Old 03-17-2018, 09:03 PM   #2
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Very nice. Thanks for the pictures.
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Old 03-18-2018, 07:49 AM   #3
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Glad I could help a fellow renovator. Nicely done. I'm impressed with those undermount drawer runners and I'll be looking for them too.
I have to chuckle when people ask, "can I do this, or that to my trailer?" I usually answer with, "Why not, it's your trailer, if the next guy doesn't like it HE
(Or she) can turn it back. Don't worry about it, enjoy your trailer the way you want it".
I bet the side access to the micro. is handy too.

Jim
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Old 03-18-2018, 09:34 AM   #4
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Daleyocum - The work turned out really nice - great solution. Do you have any info regarding the bins below, too?
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Old 03-18-2018, 11:04 AM   #5
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Daleyocum - The work turned out really nice - great solution. Do you have any info regarding the bins below, too?
Those drawers were a great find from Container Store. They are a scary exact fit. The 14” narrow Elfa rack is 10013319. I assembled it inside the closet. You then mix and match drawers being careful to have them miss the hinges. I also replaced the access panel in for the shower with thin plastic to make room.
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Old 06-20-2018, 05:32 PM   #6
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nice job!
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Old 06-21-2018, 10:10 AM   #7
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I had to move from putting the ball bearing tracks on the bottom to being on the side due to clearance issues with the hinges. I think that may be unique to my trailer because the installed the shelf at an angle! Anyway, here’s a photo of the latest, this one uses the easier to find 24’ double extension tracks you can find at Home Depot.
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Old 06-21-2018, 12:42 PM   #8
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Did you run power into the closet, or do you just run the cord to an outlet when you use it?
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Old 06-21-2018, 05:54 PM   #9
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Did you run power into the closet, or do you just run the cord to an outlet when you use it?
I put a power strip in the back of the closet that plugs into the outlet the fridge plugs into next door. You’d either replace that outlet with one that has two outlets or put in a little plug adapter. Saves running a whole new circuit over there though that would be the ideal solution.

That outlet is on the “GFI” circuit in the stock configuration. That didn’t matter to me because I replaced the inverter with a Victron Multiplus Hybrid inverter and wired the whole trailer to its output, as if it was running on shore power. All the outlets are able to be powered by the inverter. With stock wiring you wouldn’t be able to power the microwave off the inverter with my fridge hack.
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Old 12-18-2018, 06:46 PM   #10
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Thanks much for posting this Dale, I just did the mod for our 2012 International and results are outstanding! Hinges really are the key piece to make this work.

Happy wife...
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Old 12-18-2018, 11:56 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by RnK903 View Post
Thanks much for posting this Dale, I just did the mod for our 2012 International and results are outstanding! Hinges really are the key piece to make this work.

Happy wife...
So glad it worked for you. Did you end up with the same microwave or find something else? We’d love to find something with more power than 700w or a better user interface, I just couldn’t find anything.

For everyone else the too-close-for-comfort problem is mounting the shelf and microwave low enough to miss the hinge when it pulls out. If I’d known this was the critical dimension I might have gone to 1/4” aluminum plate for the shelf rather than the particle board melamine shelf. While a lot more expensive it would have bought an extra 3/8”. Check that clearance before you commit to the wood shelf.
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Old 12-20-2018, 09:49 AM   #12
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I did not buy a new microwave, just used the one we previously stowed under the bed. Will check the specs and dimensions this weekend when we have the rig out.
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Old 12-20-2018, 06:26 PM   #13
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I see. You put yours down lower than I did so you have more space. We wanted ours on the existing top shelf which means the curved roof gets in the way.
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Old 12-23-2018, 04:08 PM   #14
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I see. You put yours down lower than I did so you have more space. We wanted ours on the existing top shelf which means the curved roof gets in the way.
Yep, I forgot that we made that decision to keep the upper section free - we keep our towels and spare linens up there in the odd shaped compartment. FWIW, the microwave we have is a walmart modelRGTM701 1050w that measures 12.25" deep x 10.5" high x 17.75" wide. I had to trim about a 1/4" off the plastic standoff that protects where the electrical cord comes out of the back of the microwave to give myself enough clearance.

Also found out this weekend that we can stow two gallon jugs of drinking water behind the microwave on the sliding shelf - bonus use of the space!
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Old 12-23-2018, 04:51 PM   #15
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We were obsessed with filling the whole lower portion of the closet with the Elfa drawer system and didn’t think about the trade offs that caused in microwave choices. Mounting it lower sure gives more options and would be better for shorter people or kids.

One tiny advantage to the higher mount, though, is it’s possble to duck under it to get to the bathroom or bed area. Otherwise you’d have to push it in to get by.
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Old 02-04-2019, 09:43 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by daleyocum View Post
So glad it worked for you. Did you end up with the same microwave or find something else? We’d love to find something with more power than 700w or a better user interface, I just couldn’t find anything.

For everyone else the too-close-for-comfort problem is mounting the shelf and microwave low enough to miss the hinge when it pulls out. If I’d known this was the critical dimension I might have gone to 1/4” aluminum plate for the shelf rather than the particle board melamine shelf. While a lot more expensive it would have bought an extra 3/8”. Check that clearance before you commit to the wood shelf.
daleyocum,
Is the Liberty 24 in. Full Extension Ball Bearing Side Mount Drawer Slide (1-Pair) (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-...P-W1/206598706) compatable with the Accuride 301 - 2590-24?
Regards,
Keith
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Old 02-04-2019, 08:13 PM   #17
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daleyocum,
Is the Liberty 24 in. Full Extension Ball Bearing Side Mount Drawer Slide (1-Pair) (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-...P-W1/206598706) compatable with the Accuride 301 - 2590-24?
Regards,
Keith
That sure looks is like it. Just make sure it is heavy duty enough for your comfort level.
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Old 02-05-2019, 01:28 AM   #18
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I'm impressed by what you've done and the temptation to do the mod is strong. How are you dealing with having only one very small clothes closet in the bedroom now?
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Old 02-05-2019, 10:14 AM   #19
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I'm impressed by what you've done and the temptation to do the mod is strong. How are you dealing with having only one very small clothes closet in the bedroom now?
We've found for us closets are a very inefficient way to store clothes in an RV. We fold/roll everything up and pack them in packing cubes in the overhead cabinets over the beds. The only things that go in our (only) closet are coats. That works for the two of us. With more people it might get hard.

The other option for a microwave which I'm seriously thinking about is the one attached below. Sadly I lost which thread this came from to give credit where credit is due. This costs you the pull out bed but gives you more kitchen counter space and room for a full size microwave. That's one thing about my pullout shelf, it only fits the smallest of microwaves.
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Old 02-05-2019, 12:05 PM   #20
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I did the microwave cabinet

Not needing the lounge seating or bed space, but wanting more counter space ands a place for a microwave, I removed a set of cushions and built a cabinet.

I posted this on the International forum a while back. I did this about a year ago and since then it has proved itself to be a great mod.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f539...ge-176894.html
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