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Old 04-17-2014, 12:55 AM   #43
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Consider putting together a list of each and every component on your trailer. Estimate the weight of each component. Ask yourself, "Do I need this item?" If the answer is no then gut the component. If the answer is yes ask yourself, "What could I do to make this particular component lighter?" If you can justify the cost buy it, build it, or have the component made.


Items like the awning and all of it's associated hardware probably need to go. Same with the spare tire. Items like the toilet and the cabinets can be re-engineered to decrease weight. Can you live without AC? Can you live without heat? Can you live w/o a refrigerator? Can you live w/o propane? Can you live w/o electricity, etc.?


I'll bet you can cut the weight significantly if you are willing to make sacrifices. However, I don't think it is likely that you'll be able to reach your goal without sacrificing the things that you love most about your trailer.


Good luck!
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:10 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Andrew T View Post
Actually 16's have 20 lb tanks and one battery standard, However if you could remove 100 pounds of hitch weight it would reduce the stability of a 16.
That is another thing to consider. How is removing all the weight you want to remove going to affect the handling of the trailer? Removing a hundred pounds of tongue weight may not be that bad (but probably won't be that good, either), but removing fresh water tank, a/c unit, cabinets, will all change the towing stability. Some more than others.
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Old 04-18-2014, 05:49 PM   #45
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An external oil cooler (not a transmission oil cooler) would marginally help the engine stay cooler. I'm not aware of any designed for the Wrangler with the Pentastar, but it can't be too difficult to engineer. I'm looking to have one designed for my SSR just for that purpose...to reduce the oil temps (and as such the coolant temps) just a tad.

Regarding a lower temperature thermostat or no thermostat, this is NOT the way to go with modern engines. Modern engines are controlled by several sensors' inputs to the computer, and the computer expects to see certain results; changing the thermostat will make the computer think that the engine isn't up to proper temperature, ruining your timing and air/fuel ratios. Nearly EVERYTHING on a modern engine is computer controlled; you can't fool it without a proper tune.

Taking the thermostat OUT is the worst thing you can do, especially with a vehicle that has limited cooling available due to a compromised radiator. If you run without a thermostat, the coolant NEVER has a chance to SIT in the radiator and cool by airflow as it is always circulating. A lot of people forget that when a thermostat closes, the coolant that is in the radiator just sits there and cools. Then, when the thermostat opens, that cooled coolant circulates in the engine pulling more heat off of it. If the coolant NEVER gets the chance to cool adequately in the radiator without a thermostat, then you are at the mercy of the absolute limit of the cooling system; once you hit the breaking point there is no turning back.

Back in the day you could run without a thermostat on engines that ran cooler with less emissions equipment, less timing, and BIG cooling systems. Nowadays engines are designed to run hotter to reduce emissions; also, running TOO cool will not let the moisture in the oil evaporate which can destroy an engine.

Yes , I keep forgetting vehicles today are rolling computers.....
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:13 PM   #46
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I think it's possible but you need to look at the time and cost ,how drastic to you want to be ,strip it down to getting rid of the steel frame and going with aluminum ,getting rid of all the heavy (nice) cabinets,getting rid of air conditioning ,the steel step and putting a aluminum, get rid of microwave, one aluminum propane tank,with a vinyl tank cover or none,there is so much you can do ! But it's not going to be a airstream when your done besides for outside look and shape, too bad airstream doesn't sells a trailer kit were you can start with a aluminum frame ,and a airstream (shell ) ribs and aluminum panels etc. I'm sure you could shave off at least 500 to 600 pounds or more . I just hate to see a perfectly good trailer be torn apart ,but it's yours and you decide
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:21 PM   #47
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Just curious. Is the 3260 a measured weight of the Airstream or is it a catalog or book value weight?
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:00 PM   #48
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The 16 foot sport Bambi advertises ( book weight ) is 2860 lbs empty no cargo no water in tanks , to max gross 3500 lbs . If the trailer is a international model ( discontinued in 2012) it weights is more
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:08 PM   #49
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The steel frame on this trailer with axle and wheels has to weigh at least 1000lbs I had a small utility trailer 4x8 made of steel frame ,small steel sides its weight was about 550 lbs with no spare wheel, that's another thing you can get rid of is your steel spare tire and get a aluminum one, there are lots you can do !
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:52 AM   #50
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I was checking out the specs on the 16' 2010 International, and I'm seeing two different numbers, depending on which brochure you're looking at.

One says base weight of 3,113 lbs and cargo capacity 1,187.
The other says weight of 3,261 lbs and cargo capacity 1,039.

Which is right?
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:55 AM   #51
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My 2012 brochure advertises 3261lbs for a 16 foot international,the 16 foot sport is 2897lbs,just changing models drops 364lbs with no modifications that's a 11.2 % drop in weight your looking at dropping 38.7% of original weight 3261lbs. If you think of it you should be able to do it ! First thing to do is sell yours and by a sport model then you only have to drop 27.5 % .
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Old 04-20-2014, 11:05 AM   #52
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I weighed a few components today. This is for a 2010 16' International.

37# - Steel 20# LP tank, full

17# - Steel 20# tank LP, empty

54# - Corner seat at rear (the one with drawer underneath. This includes empty drawer, seat cushion, and 2-piece back cushion.

23# - mattress

10# - flat panel TV (removed from arm, without arm or stand)

8.5# - subwoofer behind rear corner seat

I would have loved to get an upper cabinet removed and weigh that, but when I removed the side access panel I saw there's no finished aluminum skin behind it - insulation was showing. It also holds up the curtain track, so I figured that was a can of worms I don't want to explore. Looking for stuff that's easy to remove and reinstall later if desired.

I'm going to weigh the electric tongue jack when I get a chance. I'm guessing that thing is pretty heavy compared to a manual one.
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:18 PM   #53
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Can't find a way to edit my post (?!!) so reposting, with a couple additional weights:

I weighed a few components today. This is for a 2010 16' International.

37# - Steel 20# LP tank, full

17# - Steel 20# tank LP, empty

54# - Corner seat at rear (the one with drawer underneath. This includes empty drawer, seat cushion, and 2-piece back cushion.

23# - mattress

10# - flat panel TV (removed from arm, without arm or stand)

8.5# - subwoofer behind rear corner seat

23.5# - electric jack

53.5# - spare wheel (steel rim and Goodyear Marathon ST225/75R15 tire)
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:38 PM   #54
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Save some weight without any compromise by going with an alloy wheel, and an electric Jack is completely unnecessary unless you have joint issues.

I found that the cabinetry was in general built of thicker and heavier wood than necessary. A high quality marine plywood is amazingly strong in 3/8 thich and much lighter. You can even use 1/4 inch for sides.

Windows are very heavy.

The A/C is heavy and located in a way that the weight does the most damage to trailer stability.


Andrew
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Old 04-21-2014, 04:41 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by awiegel View Post
The A/C is heavy and located in a way that the weight does the most damage to trailer stability.
That's an area I'm considering, especially since I (literally) never use it (same with the heat pump. I just fire up the furnace. Does anyone with a furnace use the heat pump? If so, for what? When?).

One big concern here though is what to do with the hole left behind in the ceiling. I don't wan to introduce leaks with a poor patch job.

Questions

. How is the AC mounted on the 2010 Bambi?

. How much does it weigh? Best I can figure based on similar Dometic units online is 100 lbs)

. How big is the hole that remains after removal?

. Is the hole size compatible with a Fantastic Fan? I have one of those towards the front and really like it (it seems very efficient) - and it would bring in a little more light as well.

I don't see a manual for it with my documentation. All I can see is that it's a Dometic 11,000 BTU and has serial number 92300090. No model number.
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Old 04-21-2014, 06:03 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by amm3824 View Post

That's an area I'm considering, especially since I (literally) never use it (same with the heat pump. I just fire up the furnace. Does anyone with a furnace use the heat pump? If so, for what? When?).

One big concern here though is what to do with the hole left behind in the ceiling. I don't wan to introduce leaks with a poor patch job.

Questions

. How is the AC mounted on the 2010 Bambi?

. How much does it weigh? Best I can figure based on similar Dometic units online is 100 lbs)

. How big is the hole that remains after removal?

. Is the hole size compatible with a Fantastic Fan? I have one of those towards the front and really like it (it seems very efficient) - and it would bring in a little more light as well.

I don't see a manual for it with my documentation. All I can see is that it's a Dometic 11,000 BTU and has serial number 92300090. No model number.
We use the heat pump in cool weather, when electric is available. That stretches the propane supply....

Weight is not the overbearing concern for us, as the TV can deal with it.
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