Now I just need a hitch...

[Stefrobrts]

Wow, good things come in waves. I've been going crazy trying to decide what to tow the Caravel with. I really wanted a full size van because we need one for our business anyway, so it could do double duty, but they're expensive and hard to find around here, and all the onles we found have over 100k on them. We could settle for a truck, but it's harder to load and unload for work. I wanted something with pleanty of power and wheelbase. So I'm breezing through the ads in the color car ad magazine they give away at the supermarket and saw a '95 Ford E150 with only 63k on it.

So we jump in the car and head out there. All I had to give them was $1500 and my precious Mustang convertible, and we drove out of there with it. It's so nice, it's like brand spanking new. 351, automatic, all the goodies you could want. Rides, steers and brakes real nice and responsive.

So, now I have my airstream, and I have my tow vehicle, all I have to do is connect them. So what kind of hitch should I get, is one kind better than the other? Are some of them simpler to set up than the others? The Hensley's out, since I'm already over budget for this whole project (maybe next year), so as I understand my choices are pretty much Reese and EZ Lift? Well, if anyone can enlighten me on hitches, I'd appreciate it. I've been reading so much stuff on the forum, my head's spinning...

[jcanavera]

Originally posted by Stefrobrts
Wow, good things come in waves. I've been going crazy trying to decide what to tow the Caravel with. I really wanted a full size van because we need one for our business anyway, so it could do double duty, but they're expensive and hard to find around here, and all the onles we found have over 100k on them

Too bad you aren't in STL. I'm selling my 99 Chevy Express Van that I tow the Safari with. Only 20,000 miles on it.

Jack

[overlander64]

Greetings Stephanie!

While I would normally recommend a Reese Hitch with Dual Cam Sway Control for an Airstream or Argosy, your Caravel likely has less than the 400 pound tongue weight requirement for the Dual Cam system to be fully effective. If you find that the tongue weight is there, I would definitely consider the system (my 6.0 Metre Minuet <20'> just barely has enough weight for the system. You can learn more about the Reese products at:

Reese Trailer Hitches and Accessories

If your Caravel doesn't have the necessary tongue weight for the Reese Dual Cam system, I might suggest consider the Equal-I-Zer hitch system. While I haven't had personal experience with this hitch, it does have built-in sway control and is said to be available in a rating that would work with your Caravel. There are several members of the forum who seem to be well pleased with this particular hitch. You can learn more about the Equal-I-Zer hitch at:

Equal-I-Zer Hitch Products

I have towed a number of single-axle trailers with the friction sway control and would avoid that option if possible. The friction sway control is a nuisance to keep adjusted, at least in my experience. It needs to be loosened for wet/slippery driving conditions; tightened for windy/heavy truck traffic driving conditions; sometimes removed entirely for close maneuvers when backing.

With either hitch system, you will need a draw bar that permits a ball height of between 18" and 19.5" with a 2" hitch ball assuming that the coupler is the original Marvel 2" model that was utilized through the redesign in 1969. The precise hitch height needed should be in the owner's manual for the coach - - the information used to be available on the Airstream corporate site, but the last time I checked this information had not become available on the newly designed site.

Good luck with your hitch selection decision!

Kevin

[Rod Pease]

Steph, I was in the same position in Jan of this year when we bought our Bambi. I bought the Bambi on a saturday and arranged to pick it up on the following friday, so I needed to do some fast work. I found that the U-haul rental center also installed hitches, and electric brake controllers and they were open on sunday. I knew nothing except what I had read in the forum and I posted a request for help much like yours. I received a lot of good advice. I ended up getting the brake controller from U-Haul approx $140 installed, there are better ones on the market but the one that I got was the digital "Activator" made for U-Haul by Reese. They also sold a Prodigy by Tekonsha which probably would have been a better choice but they were out of stock. You will need to find out the hitch height of the trailer you are buying. If you get a weight equalizing hitch it needs to be set up so the hitch ball is at the same height as the trailer, and you need a 2 5/16 ball that is rated to above the weight of the trailer. I got my hitch from a company called Discount Hitch and it is manufactured by Curt the cost was about $400 installed. My truck already had a frame mounted 2" receiver hitch on it so with a 2 5/16 ball I was able to tow the trailer to Discount Hitch so that they could install the equalizer system on the trailer. With a light trailer it is possible to tow it with out the weight equalizing system ( I see lots of people doing it) but I know you have a lot more control with one. I hope that this helps.

[Stefrobrts]

Great, I visited two shops that sell and install hitches today, and I left both after getting the advice that all I need is a ball the right height and a brake controller. No weight distribution, no sway control. They all just acted like I was nuts - "you don't need that stuff for a trailer that small". Well, thanks for the advice, I'm looking into the hitches online I guess.

[Pick]

You may not need the weight distribution hitch, but I would go with at least one friction sway control.

Here is how to find out if you need a WD hitch:

1. Take the new van to the scales and weigh it.

2. Take the new van hooked up to the Caravel to the scales with a standard ball hitch, and weigh it.

If the weight on the front axle is reduced to the point that it is lighter than the rear axle, then go with a WD hitch. If the truck and trailer sit level, then you probably don't need a WD hitch, but should have sway control, no matter what type of hitch you chose.

Note: This is my opinion on your situation in a nutshell. It may require further analysis. This information is worth as much as you paid for it.

[overlander64]

A trailer the size of the Caravel may not technically require a weight distributing hitch (when towed by a 1/2 ton van), but based on my experience towing my '78 Minuet that is just a little larger it does create a more solid feeling link between the tow vehicle and trailer (this is towing with my '99 K2500 <3/4 ton 4 x 4> Suburban). For whatever reason, the trailer just does not seem to be as well controlled when towed with out the Reese weight distribution bars in place; and I am confident that it is even going to be better once I get my Dual Cam setup installed. It will be a tremendous relief to jetison the friction sway control - - no more stopping to adjust the tension every time it rains, when the wind or traffic picks up; or having to take time to remove the contraption prior to parking.

Kevin

[Stefrobrts]

Well, it seems like it should have something other than just a ball. I guess either way the only thing connecting the trailer to the van will be the ball, but I would think sway control is a must have. There's no scales anywhere near here. Should I just get a ball for the receiver and hook it up and take it to the scales? Seems risky after all the towing horror stories I've read here.

I have discovered that I will need a four inch raised ball, as opposed to dropped, because the van receiver is low to the ground, just to get the ball to 18 inches before putting the trailer on it. Is the ball supposed to be at 18 inches with the weight of the trailer on it? Maybe I need one raised a little more to account for that? See how little I know :-) I appreciate all the advice.

[nickcrowhurst]

Stephanie, further to Pick's good advice, as you don't have a close weighbridge, you can just use a tape measure to help decide about a weight distribution hitch. You need to understand why they are sometimes needed. When you attach a trailer onto a ball hitch, the back of the tow vehicle can be seen to go down an inch or two, but less obvious is the fact that the front will RISE, as the rear axle acts like the pivot point in a seesaw. When we are towing a trailer, we would naturally desire extra steering control, but we will actually get less, because the front steering wheels are lifted off the ground by the leverage of the trailer weight. Whether this is significant in each combination of tow vehicle and trailer will depend on many factors. These include the relative weights and wheelbases of the two vehicles, the rear overhang between the ball hitch and the rear axle, and the the relative ratings of the front and rear springs on the tow vehicle. These are complex issues, and you need a practical guideline that will work today. I would suggest you get the tow vehicle on level pavement and measure the vertical distance from the ground to the highest point of a front wheel arch. Then lower the trailer coupling down onto the ball hitch, raise all the trailer jacks, and then re-measure the height from the ground to the wheel arch. If this height has increased, then your steering control has decreased, and I would add weight distribution bars. These bars can be adjusted so that the front of the vehicle goes back down, and the tow vehicle resumes its original attitude. Ultimately, you are the one with the responsibilty on the road, and you are doing the right thing by asking for information. You may not need load distribution bars, but I would not rely solely on the advice of a hitch fitter who may not have sufficient knowledge of your tow vehicle/trailer combination. Good luck. Nick

[Pahaska]

It will be a tremendous relief to jetison the friction sway control - - no more stopping to adjust the tension every time it rains, when the wind or traffic picks up; or having to take time to remove the contraption prior to parking.

You are creating your own work. My Reese bar goes on when I hitch up, I set tension once per the Reese instructions, and the bar comes off when I unhitch. Rain oir shine, there is no difference. Forward or back, no difference.

[overlander64]

RE: Friction Sway Device with Single Axle Trailer

I have a Reese Friction Sway (used a Draw-Tite and Eas-Z-Lift before that) as well, and have never used it with anything other than my two single axle trailers (1980 Nomad -18.5'; and 1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre). The directions that came with my friction unit specify a "normal travel" adjustment procedure then cautions: When rain or slippery road ccontions are encountered back off the adjustment by 1/2 to 1 turn of the lever. When traveling in high winds or heavy truck traffic increase tension by 1/2 to 1 turn of the lever. Always remove before backing into tight places. (The Draw-Tite and Reese instructions were very nearly identical in their setup instructions - - the Draw-Tite instructions were even more emphatic about the necessity of making the adjustments when adverse travel conditions were encountered.)

I have found that with the friction device on a single axle it is critical to follow the above instructions to have the trailer track properly behind the tow vehicle. I suspect that a tandem axle trailer may have a bearing on the opeartion of one of these devices. I also did learn my lesson about not removing the device when I was backing my 18' Nomad into a site at Cloud 9 Ranch in Caulfield, MO - - left the friction device attached and bent it to the extent that it had to be replaced - - a $90.00 mistake back in 1980.

Kevin

[Stefrobrts]

How much, if at all, the friction sway control needs to be fiddled with is a big concern for us. I know from experience that a typical road trip in the NW involves ten miles of dry roads and sunny skies, ten miles of downpour, and ten more miles or dry roads and sunny skies again. If it really needs to be adjusted for different conditions, I imagine a trip across the state could literally involve stopping multiple times to tinker with it. Kevin says he can feel a difference if it's not adjusted, John says he never touches it. Can anyone else weigh in on how much friction sway control needs to be adjusted for different conditions, particularly with a lightweight single axel trailer?

[Rickk48]

I use a Reese friction sway control, and my experience is much like Pahaska's. Really never readjust the hitch during a trip, and have not experienced any problems. Maybe just lucky?

[Rod Pease]

Steph;
I also use the Friction type sway control and like Pick and Rickk have never had a sway problem and have never needed to adjust it. I don't know how large your mirrors are on the van but you may also want to get a clip on mirror that would extend your veiw behind the trailer. I use Cipa clip on on both sides, the left side is the most useful while driving. It allows you to see back at least 10 car lengths behind the trailer. The right side is mostly useful when backing up or changing lanes. It is flat rather than convex which allows me to judge distances better.

[Silvertwinkie]

Hi Steph!

My choice for a hitch was Reese. I know there are other great ones out there, but I prefer Reese for the past 20 years it's all my family has used.

I have the friction sway and I agree with Rick and the others, set it up once and drive on.

I have the 1000lb weight distribution bars as well on my class 4 hitch.

On my recent voyage, I had zero adjustments to make. When camping as a kid with my family, we also had the exact same exp. Set up once and go.

I also am a bit into the way things look. I like the way the Reese sits on the back of the car. I have seen some Draw Tites and a few others that seem kind of bulky and awkward back there. The Reese looks tough, but also does not seem awkward on the tow vehicle which to me is important because I don't want my shiney daily driver to look like a Mack truck.

Eric

[Stefrobrts]

I'm still not sure about that friction sway control. I'm going to go to a dealer in town and look at an Equal-i-zer setup and see what i think of it in person. I also figure one less thing to hook-up when it's time to go is a good thing - one less thing to worry about forgetting. I watched our friend hooking and unhooking his Reese and I thought there were a lot of things to remember (at least it looked that way to a beginner).

[Stefrobrts]

A friend talked me into buying a used EZLift hitch he had, got it all set up for me, 1000lb WD bars, 2 inch ball, and a friction sway control. I'm going to tow it to his house tomorrow so he can attach the little ball to the trailer tounge for the sway control.

I took it for a test drive today. It followed right along, no problem, but it was a bit disconcerting at first to feel it bumping along behind me. It was like everytime I went over an uneven spot in the road I felt the van go over it, and then the trailer.

I got a Surepull Digitrac brake controller from the local tire/hitch guys, who I trust to set me up with the right thing. The instructions said to turn it up until the trailer brakes lock, and then back off. I never could get the brakes to lock, but they sure pulled hard. I've got it set on 4.0 now, and when I let off the brake pedals I feel the trailer brakes let go with a jerk. Any suggestions? Should I turn it down a notch more. Should I just take it back and get a prodigy?

So much to learn...

[Silvertwinkie]

Steph,

I can't say for sure since I have never used the controller you are using. I will say that I am beyond happy with the Prodigy. It won't lock the brakes either, but compared to the Voyager I had, it is a whole different beast.

The Prodigy has few, if any quirks and the car and the camper feel like one braking unit. I have mine set at 3.4 without boost and it acts like a real dream when braking, plus it does the same in reverse for when I want to do my "rockford" reverse manuvers!

As for the hitch setup, it sounds great. I don't see any problem as long as it fit the car as it should.

There is however, no cure that I know of for feeling the bumps the car already went over. I was too a bit off key the first time I felt it. Now, after pulling, I still expect it and when it does not happen, I forget I am not pulling and think something is wrong!

Eric

[Stefrobrts]

I don't think I'll be pulling any Rockford maneuvers anytime soon :-) It took about a half hour to snug it back into it's parking spot next to the garage after our little adventure this morning. I was literally shaking when I finally got out of the van! However, I'm sure it will be second nature in no time. But right now, I just keep thinking 'whatever you do, don't hurt the airstream!'

Plus all the talk about sway and towing accidents on this board have me totally paranoid, and it's all I can do to resist running out and putting myself into debt for a hensley. I really hope with this friction sway control hitch, the big van, and a little caution, we will be able to avoid any problems. But I'm still worried about it.

[Silvertwinkie]

Steph,

You are going to be fine. Everything you are exp right now is totally normal.

Don't sweat it. Remember what you felt the very first time you took a socket to the engine? It's the same thing.

I was shaking during and after my first waterpump replacement back in 1989. Now, I eat them for breakfast, although I hate doing it on my Olds!

You have the weight bars and the friction sway. Soon you will be able to thread that rig with little effort. Rockfords or no!

Keep up the good work, you are doing just fine!

Eric