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Old 06-14-2017, 12:27 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by gypsydad View Post
Once you have all your cloths, toiletries, bedding, and dry food in your AS, you typically do not have to load/unload that stuff again, except when changing sheets and dirty clothes.
Overall, great advice. However, we do not leave dry food in the trailer while it is in storage (except maybe canned food). Our theory is that it could draw rodents into the trailer, and we don't want that!
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Old 06-15-2017, 08:21 AM   #100
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Overall, great advice. However, we do not leave dry food in the trailer while it is in storage (except maybe canned food). Our theory is that it could draw rodents into the trailer, and we don't want that!
Hi

.... or keep the dry stuff in metal tins.

A variation on this is a "storage box" ( possibly fiberglass) to store it all in. You transfer inside the trailer rather than lug things out from the house. The empty bin goes back and forth. It's always seemed like a pain to me ....

Bob
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Old 06-15-2017, 08:24 AM   #101
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Good point...we have not had any issues in our AS, however.

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Originally Posted by Rocinante View Post
Overall, great advice. However, we do not leave dry food in the trailer while it is in storage (except maybe canned food). Our theory is that it could draw rodents into the trailer, and we don't want that!
That is a good point to consider, Rocinante, depending on where you keep your AS. Maybe we have been very lucky, but we have not had that issue; I know others have mentioned issues with SOB's and perhaps older AS's? Friend had his Class C MH invaded with mice after having it only a few weeks.

We typically keep snack crackers, chips, packaged foods such as Uncle Bens rice packages, oatmeal cups, Golden Grill hash brown cartons, breakfast bars, etc., and no issues with rodents...we have lots of squirrels, chip monks, and mice up here in Lincoln MT. In Austin we have squirrels, rats, and mice to deal with also, but no issues in our AS. Perhaps newer models are better sealed?

Any others experienced rodent problems with newer AS's?
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Old 06-15-2017, 08:31 AM   #102
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Good suggestion, Uncle Bob!

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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

.... or keep the dry stuff in metal tins.

A variation on this is a "storage box" ( possibly fiberglass) to store it all in. You transfer inside the trailer rather than lug things out from the house. The empty bin goes back and forth. It's always seemed like a pain to me ....

Bob
We do use the plastic bins and metal canisters for most all of our food compartments, especially now that we have the new 28'. Without the slide out pantry we were used to in the 25' models, we had to do some thinking on how/where to put food. We opted for pairing down our spices to the spice rack, and put the dry food above the dinette table in the 2 large storage bins, inside plastic bins or metal containers for pancake mix, sugar, and of course....coffee.
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Old 06-15-2017, 08:51 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi



.... or keep the dry stuff in metal tins.



A variation on this is a "storage box" ( possibly fiberglass) to store it all in. You transfer inside the trailer rather than lug things out from the house. The empty bin goes back and forth. It's always seemed like a pain to me ....



Bob


I like the Oxo Good grips, a little pricey but they work great. I don't know if these lock out the smell though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JB...age+containers
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Old 06-15-2017, 11:15 AM   #104
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Ah, haha, a "mouse box" instead of a "bear box" to keep the stored food safe. Might work! Our theory includes the smell of food inside the trailer enticing them in, even if they can't get to it. If the container is truly airtight and mouse-tooth-proof, that may just be the ticket.

Of course, who knows what really lures a mouse into a trailer, aside from simple opportunity (e.g. an inviting point of entry), and a dry, relatively warm / safe place to hang out? Maybe stored food isn't the real issue. We certainly won't pretend to be squeaky little experts on that fuzzy topic.
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Old 06-16-2017, 06:09 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by Rocinante View Post
Ah, haha, a "mouse box" instead of a "bear box" to keep the stored food safe. Might work! Our theory includes the smell of food inside the trailer enticing them in, even if they can't get to it. If the container is truly airtight and mouse-tooth-proof, that may just be the ticket.

Of course, who knows what really lures a mouse into a trailer, aside from simple opportunity (e.g. an inviting point of entry), and a dry, relatively warm / safe place to hang out? Maybe stored food isn't the real issue. We certainly won't pretend to be squeaky little experts on that fuzzy topic.
Hi

My guess is that there are enough crumbs on the floor to make the AS "interesting". If you soap and water mop the trailer daily ... maybe not. I certainly do not do that.

Easy way to detect mice: Put a box of Kleenex on the floor. If the are present, they *will* find it and turn it into a pile of fluff. They *love* Kleenex. I have data on this ....(They also love spilled barley, but that's a different hobby ...)

Bob
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Old 06-16-2017, 09:26 AM   #106
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Ready to buy now ... new questions on Hitch Ball Height

Again, as a newbie I have learned a lot from you all. BIG THANKS and HOPE ONE DAY WILL MEET YOU ON CAMPGROUNDS AND OFFER YOU COFFEE, WINE, OR DRINKS.

Now we are ready to drive to distance for best deal to buy and tow. I have a Ford Transit Cargo Van and the current Hitch Ball height from ground to top is at 17.5". It is the right height that will keep my future 22FB at level when tow?
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Old 06-16-2017, 09:32 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi



My guess is that there are enough crumbs on the floor to make the AS "interesting". If you soap and water mop the trailer daily ... maybe not. I certainly do not do that.



Easy way to detect mice: Put a box of Kleenex on the floor. If the are present, they *will* find it and turn it into a pile of fluff. They *love* Kleenex. I have data on this ....(They also love spilled barley, but that's a different hobby ...)



Bob


Interesting idea! We may also try placing some un-baited traps in strategic locations likely to be visited by mice to see what happens. A professional exterminator once told me that mice are quite curious and if you place a trap in a trafficked area they can easily be trapped, even without bait.
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Old 06-17-2017, 08:09 AM   #108
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Hi

We routinely get mice in the garage in the fall. They completely ignore the traps, with or without bait. They will find a random box of Kleenex, no matter where it is in the garage

Bob
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Old 06-17-2017, 02:39 PM   #109
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Hitch ball height and hot water questions

1) Is there spec that defines the hitch ball height for level towing? Not sure need to get a new hitch to pickup my Sport 22FB.

2) While hot water will run on propane, Will the hot water run run on Electric or Battery power? As there's electric at campsite but propane may run out already.

Thanks.
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:59 AM   #110
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1) Is there spec that defines the hitch ball height for level towing? Not sure need to get a new hitch to pickup my Sport 22FB.

2) While hot water will run on propane, Will the hot water run run on Electric or Battery power? As there's electric at campsite but propane may run out already.

Thanks.
Hi

In my experience, the hitch height is adjusted by eyeball if the mechanic is good enough or by level checks on the trailer if he has a concern. Either way, the surface the TV and trailer are on needs to be flat and level.

On most hot water setups, you enable electric (110V) or LP separately. The only part of water heat that I am aware of running on 12V is the water pump. Some fridge setups will run on LP / 12V / 110V. I'm not a big fan of running major loads off of 12V for 24 hours a day. I would probably turn off the 12V feature on a fridge like that.

If you have run out of propane just running the fridge, something is wrong. Running a fridge for a week in hot weather should not budge the needle on a 30 lb propane tank. I suspect you either have a tank sensor error (it reads empty when it's full), the tank is shut off (I've done that ...), or there is a leak in the system (not a good thing).

Bob
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Old 06-18-2017, 08:38 AM   #111
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Quote:
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Hi

In my experience, the hitch height is adjusted by eyeball if the mechanic is good enough or by level checks on the trailer if he has a concern. Either way, the surface the TV and trailer are on needs to be flat and level.

On most hot water setups, you enable electric (110V) or LP separately. The only part of water heat that I am aware of running on 12V is the water pump. Some fridge setups will run on LP / 12V / 110V. I'm not a big fan of running major loads off of 12V for 24 hours a day. I would probably turn off the 12V feature on a fridge like that.

If you have run out of propane just running the fridge, something is wrong. Running a fridge for a week in hot weather should not budge the needle on a 30 lb propane tank. I suspect you either have a tank sensor error (it reads empty when it's full), the tank is shut off (I've done that ...), or there is a leak in the system (not a good thing).

Bob
Hi Bob - Thanks for the advice.

I plan to pickup our 22FB in Tampa late August. Just like to learn more as I am extra excited about my first AS.

1) I have a hitch on my Van already. It is not adjustable and "no sway control" and measures about 17" from ground to ball top. Like to know if it is the good height or I need to get a new hitch.

2) I take the AC and Hot Water, and Heater will run on Propane if no electric as just imaging on either a very hot or cold day with a stopover at Walmart parking lot for few hours on a long trip, would like to run AC or Heater to rest and relax for few hours while spouse does some shopping ... just curious if this is what you all would do?

Now counting about 2 months now I will join you as proud AS owners ...
Thanks again for your advice.
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Old 06-18-2017, 02:14 PM   #112
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does the 22Sport have elecric hot water??

Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

In my experience, the hitch height is adjusted by eyeball if the mechanic is good enough or by level checks on the trailer if he has a concern. Either way, the surface the TV and trailer are on needs to be flat and level.

On most hot water setups, you enable electric (110V) or LP separately. The only part of water heat that I am aware of running on 12V is the water pump. Some fridge setups will run on LP / 12V / 110V. I'm not a big fan of running major loads off of 12V for 24 hours a day. I would probably turn off the 12V feature on a fridge like that.

If you have run out of propane just running the fridge, something is wrong. Running a fridge for a week in hot weather should not budge the needle on a 30 lb propane tank. I suspect you either have a tank sensor error (it reads empty when it's full), the tank is shut off (I've done that ...), or there is a leak in the system (not a good thing).

Bob
You might have to check but I am not sure the Sport has both electric and propane...think it is just propane... the fridge does not run 3 way so no 12V in AS models...just propane and electric from my experience?
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