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Old 01-09-2007, 08:51 PM   #1
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2002 25' Classic
Oro Valley , Arizona
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 835
Moosetags was right on :)

My trailer went to the dealer today -- the thermostat did not have to be replaced everything worked. My trailer had sat since September in storage after our being in CO (Priest Gulch) where everything in the climate control dept. quit working.

Apparently the whole thing reset itself; the dealer suspects low voltage in the RV park???? anyway that works now.

Over-tourque (sp?) of the lug bolts is not good; I had mine replaced to the "tune" of $330..... that included the acorn knuts (sp?) but the techs told me that some of them were torqued to 210....and they had been stretched. That is why they got hot when I had flats and had to work very hard to remove each knut.

Interesting to me (they packed the bearings) but I did not need brakes and we have been about 20,000 miles. Guess gearing down helps

Anyway, Moosetags, you were correct on the climate control

Kistler & Brenda

2002 Classic 25'
2003 Expedition EB 5.4L, AWD, AdvanceTrac Class IV hitch pkg. Reese dual cam/Prodigy
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:25 PM   #2
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2004 25' Safari
. , Illinois
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Good to know brakes can last that long.

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Old 01-09-2007, 11:01 PM   #3
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1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
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hello Kistler ,

Rv parks often have lower than normal voltage at the box ,and can be worse
when the park is full .i won't say its a rule that it happens ,but it does alot .
you can see much less than 120v sometimes .I have often wondered if my
fridge has cooling troubles on campground power as it always is colder
at home and its average of 70 degrees most often here in SB CA .

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Old 01-09-2007, 11:23 PM   #4
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New Borockton , Alabama
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I guess I'll have to hunt down that thread. Right on moosetags! What did he say, btw.
Randy...Converters, Inverters, Trimetric, Surge Protectors, Zamp, Smartplug, AGM Batts
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:51 AM   #5
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2002 25' Classic
Oro Valley , Arizona
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 835
If I remember correctly, I believe he told me to unplug from all power--I got off shore power, took out the batteries--and maybe the thing would reset itself.

I did not test the results; I put the batteries back in a coupla days ago and then the dealer plugged the trailer in to shore power and wow.... everything worked. $25 for this service BUT I cannot run my air conditioner at home because I can't find an outlet with enough umph to work without tripping the breaker(s).

The "stretched" lug bolts and knuts (nuts???) replacement and the repacking of the bearings cost $ I said the brakes did not need replacement.

I use the Expedition transmission and gear down a lot; I credit this with saving the trailer brakes but I'll probably be buying a transmission one of these days.

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Old 01-10-2007, 09:11 AM   #6
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2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud , Minnesota
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Originally Posted by Kistler
BUT I cannot run my air conditioner at home because I can't find an outlet with enough umph to work without tripping the breaker(s).
It's a good thing you've stopped doing this then .. An A/C compressor at startup draws up towards 22 amps, then settles to a lower amperage once running. The compressor strains trying to start on 15 amps, so only use that 15A-30A adapter to run yer swamp cooler.

I looked at an Overlander a few years back that had fried its second A/C. The owner ran its A/C at his home until one day it wouldn't work -- reassured me it was "newer" and it could be fixed easily too. I asked -- yep, he'd been using an adapter.

There are a few threads here where members document hiring an electrician or DIY to install a 30A circuit for just this purpose. Makes a nice guesthouse in the offseason!


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