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Old 09-30-2013, 04:36 PM   #15
cwf
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I thought about "child safety latches"..... But am fresh out of 3 year olds to operate them.

We do have some bouncy ones that like to ease out... Especially when I have had a heavy braking operation.

I thought of magnets. Haven't thought of how that mite work....
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:17 PM   #16
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Bad roads have a lot to do with it. My Classic has had problems with the drawers popping open since it was new. The problem is the front of the rail has a small tab that is supposed to resist the drawer being opened. Technically you have to lift the drawer and pull. This allows the drawer to raise up over the tab. The problem with this technique is two fold. First unless you are careful, just sliding the drawer back tends to bend this tab down. Secondly if you hit a bump, the drawer will raise in the rails. This rise in the drawer causes the drawer to clear the stop tab and the drawer then is subject to opening. It's a terrible system and while I regularly bend those tabs up, they slowly succumb to bending if they aren't treated carefully.

I know it's road conditions because in most cases around the St. Louis area, many of the Interstates have been patched or have dips which causes this lifting action. Once we get out of town, at the first rest stop I go back and close the opened drawers. If the roads are good on the balance of the trip, the drawers are all in place once we get to our destination.

I don't know if there is a better system that is compatible with the current drawers for our 2004 unit, but I might look at some of the newer Classic's at the dealer and see what they are doing today.

Jack
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:50 PM   #17
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The drawers under our bed and several of the other cabinet doors have this type of latch.

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They come in 5# and 10# latch strengths. I've replace a couple that became weak with use and replaced the one on the closet door with the stronger grip. As others have mentioned, it is not too difficult for the toggle to get bumped and flipped in and then the latch doesn't grip and can go unnoticed on those low drawers. The galley drawers typically have a notch on the bottom that engages a lip when fully closed that usually keeps them closed.

Since we don't ride in our trailers, we really don't realize what goes on back there when underway. Clamp a camera to the table and record a few minutes of video going down the road. It might be an eye opener. I've heard our trailers endure a 6+ magnitude earthquake several times a minute going down a good road. It's a wonder things don't look like they went through a blender when you open the door at your destination. Unbalanced running gear and overly stiff WD bars can increase the effects by several orders of magnitude.
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Old 10-02-2013, 06:56 PM   #18
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I have never had drawers doors etc. come open on road even w/axles 36 yrs. old, only prob frig. comes open even w/new axles [1 yr. old] unless put cooler in front of door w/throw rug to prevent damage too door old style frig. [60s era] had pins or swing type locks to prevent this. New type plastic frigi locks don't work..... I have traveled on some very bumpy or what ever roads. Maybe A.S. design dept has prob. This is not what cost of A.S. owners should have to put up with.
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:48 PM   #19
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I have never had drawers doors etc. come open on road even w/axles 36 yrs. old, only prob frig. comes open even w/new axles [1 yr. old] unless put cooler in front of door w/throw rug to prevent damage too door old style frig. [60s era] had pins or swing type locks to prevent this. New type plastic frigi locks don't work..... I have traveled on some very bumpy or what ever roads. Maybe A.S. design dept has prob. This is not what cost of A.S. owners should have to put up with.
We had a 1975 Excella for 10 years before getting the 2006 - never had a problem with the doors opening either, but the new one sure does.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:39 PM   #20
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As Silver Goose shows in Post #17, I've upgraded all our drawers to solid wood running on Blum slides with the latches he pictured at the top of each drawer. Results = drawers run smoothly, close themselves in daily use, and lock closed/star closed under way. Nice!
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:41 AM   #21
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I have looked at cabinet locks, but they are pricey. Also, i would want them all keyed alike, otherwise, it would be another dozen keys for the trailer....
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:11 AM   #22
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Our 2006 had a similar problem but with the drawer under the dinette seat just as you come in the door. I thought it had everything to do with some rough roads we were traveling on. I looked closely at the catch and decided that it wasn't the problem. I guessed that it had to do with some excessive vibrations since Airstreams are engineered to be the best on the road.

By the next season I had replaced the original Marathons and adjusted the Equilizer hitch. I dialed the hitch back some and made sure that the tires were properly balanced. No problems since except for the rare occasion when I hit a really big bump or pothole.

The "problem" might be the latch so look there first. If it isn't, check into your running gear and hitch.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:06 AM   #23
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HiHoSilver had this problem and solved it with magnetic latches that mount at the back of the drawer. We also had this problem with drawers and took his idea - it works! Tiny extra tug to get the drawers open but no more open drawers to block my way to the bathroom at a pit stop....

Kay
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:18 AM   #24
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I've been curious about the level of vibration inside the trailer while underway. There are a number of seismometers available for iPads and iPhones at the App Store that use the built-in accelerometer. I just purchased one called Seismometer 6th by Skypa for 99 cents and I plan to use it on the next trip. Hopefully it will provide some empirical data to establish a baseline. I haven't addressed any of the various vibration causing issues since I bought the trailer, but I intend to. It will be interesting to do one at a time and observe changes in data if any.

Poppy
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:13 PM   #25
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I've been curious about the level of vibration inside the trailer while underway. There are a number of seismometers available for iPads and iPhones at the App Store that use the built-in accelerometer. I just purchased one called Seismometer 6th by Skypa for 99 cents and I plan to use it on the next trip. Hopefully it will provide some empirical data to establish a baseline. I haven't addressed any of the various vibration causing issues since I bought the trailer, but I intend to. It will be interesting to do one at a time and observe changes in data if any.

Poppy
There are 5 basic vibration sources.

I have listed them in the order of occurance.

1. Lack of proper running gear balance.
2. Aged out rubber rods in the torsion axles, making the cushioning of the axle useless.
3. Excessive rated hitch bars.
4. Excessive rated tow vehicle
5. Rough roads

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Old 11-07-2013, 01:01 PM   #26
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Thanks Andy. If there's excessive vibration it sounds like that's the order of priority to approach things.

It does occur to me that it might be difficult to define "excessive vibration". Maybe we could get readings from different folks or somesuch.

Poppy
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:15 PM   #27
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I must be doing something wrong. In three years, with the exception of the time that I pulled the AS over a median divider to avoid guy wanting to put his pickup in my lane on a left turn, I've (knock on laminate) never had much of a problem with anything opening or flying around inside the AS.

Just lucky I guess, although I prefer to chalk it up to skillful driving
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Old 11-07-2013, 02:19 PM   #28
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Thanks Andy. If there's excessive vibration it sounds like that's the order of priority to approach things.

It does occur to me that it might be difficult to define "excessive vibration". Maybe we could get readings from different folks or somesuch.

Poppy
A good definition could be:

Vibration, regarding monocoque constructed, torsion axle towed travel trailers. Anything that causes, water leaks, sheared rivets, fatigue cracks in aluminum or steel, rearranging any and all furniture or cabinetry or stored items, cracks in copper tubing be it water or AC equipemt, electrical failures, loose screws, and the like.

Andy
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