Best way to get 12V power to front of trailer

[gomotomoto]

My battery is located in the back of the airstream (64 ambassador) I just purchased the power jack and need to get power to it.

What's the best way to do this? I assumes it tying wires to my gas line is a no-no.

Has anybody else dealt with this challenge and has a good plan they can share with me?

[J. Morgan]

I have run 12 volt to and from the front of a trailer by using 12 gage sheathed wire like a person would buy to make an extension cord and securing it to the belly pan every six to eight inches with sturdy clamps.

This cable is usually available off the rack at big box home improvement stores.


Brevi tempore!

[idroba]

There should already be 12 volt power at the front of your trailer in the form of the charge line which has been included in Airstreams for many years. It also supplies the break away switch for the trailer brakes, if it becomes disconnected.

Look for where your break away switch connects to heavy wires on the front of the trailer. One of the leads to the switch should already be hot, with 12 volts available. The one which is not hot will be connected to the brake wire line. Don't try to use it.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by gomotomoto

My battery is located in the back of the airstream (64 ambassador) I just purchased the power jack and need to get power to it.

What's the best way to do this? I assumes it tying wires to my gas line is a no-no.

Has anybody else dealt with this challenge and has a good plan they can share with me?

You have to keep the rated power draw for the jack in mind when choosing wire size. The overall run length also should play heavily into your decision.

Power trailer jacks typically need a fused, dedicated 30 amp circuit for proper operation. A basic circuit with a 30 amp capacity dictates a minimum wire size of 10AWG.

If your total length is over 20 feet, I would suggest 8AWG to prevent any length-related voltage drop in your jack power cable. Since you only need a single conductor for a jack feed (the jack is self-grounding when you bolt it to the frame), it should be no problem running a single 8AWG wire the entire length of your trailer.

Just be sure to add your 30 amp fuse within 18" of the power source, be it either your battery or positive bus bar. I would also consider the addition of split loom for added wire protection.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[J. Morgan]

I used two of the three 12 gage conductors to carry the positive current and the third to carry the negative in conjunction with the chassis ground.

It worked ok for what I used it for, later I changed configuration and took it down.


Brevi tempore!

[Lorne]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

I used two of the three 12 gage conductors to carry the positive current and the third to carry the negative in conjunction with the chassis ground.

It worked ok for what I used it for, later I changed configuration and took it down.


Brevi tempore!

Hi, I recently purchased a 1977 Argosy Minuet and the previous owner had a separate wire that simply plugged into a hot wire in the 7 pin plug. When I need it, I plug in and when I don't, its unplugged and put aside in a protected spot on the jack. So far I havent had any trouble with the arrangement and it eliminates the running of extra wires. It also gives me piece of mind knowing the jack has no power.