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Old 07-09-2004, 07:21 PM   #1
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Wheel well repair question

My wheel wells are corrodet near the bottom mounting flange, mostly the sections fore and aft of the wheels.
My plan is to make aluminum panels, give them the right bend, and rivet them to the galvanized metal that's still very healthy right above the bend.
I would seal the seams with Vulkem, to prevent water leaking on the floor when driving in the rain. Right now my frame is bare, and the floor is all gone, so it's easy to make repairs.
My concern is riveting aluminum over galvanized metal. Will it corrode over time, causing a very hard to repair problem? Should I use metal flashing instead?
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Old 07-09-2004, 09:24 PM   #2
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I'm facing the same dilema. I think I will use galvanized instead of aluminum. The wheel well is galvanized and it is in direct contact with the steel frame, so i think steel is the appropriate choice. I just don't think steel/aluminum/steel is a very tasty sandwich.
Besides, I have some POR-15 left over.
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Old 07-09-2004, 10:26 PM   #3
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Yeah, I forgot that ti also has contact with the frame.
My wheelwells had a 3x3in square of aluminum in the corners, like for a spacer. Anyone else had these squares in there? I found them 1 ea. on all 4 inner corners of both wheelwells. What gives? Inquiring minds want to know....
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Old 07-09-2004, 10:31 PM   #4
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No idea, don't have them on my '59. Could they be water spray deflectors?
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Old 07-09-2004, 10:34 PM   #5
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I'm in the process of repairing my wheel tubs.I'm cutting of the corroded steel and riveting on new galvanized steel angles with steel rivets.
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Old 07-10-2004, 10:42 AM   #6
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Wheel well repair.

Hey guys!! Sounds like your trying to do too much work.

A simple, yet effective way to repair the wheel wells is to plate them with some aluminum plates.

Then, and most importantly, spray the patches as well as the rest of the wheel well with several coats of underseal. You can buy it most any place.

That not only takes care of the problem, the underseal is a good preventive measure from other damages as well.

Leave the complicated methods to how to open a beer can with one hand, 101.

Andy
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Old 07-30-2004, 12:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg176
I'm in the process of repairing my wheel tubs.I'm cutting of the corroded steel and riveting on new galvanized steel angles with steel rivets.
Greg,
I'm doing the same. I think I will raise the wheel wells about 1" to allow more tire clearance for Marathons, which are larger diameter than my 7.0014.5s. Are you doing the same?
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Old 07-30-2004, 12:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg176
I'm in the process of repairing my wheel tubs.I'm cutting of the corroded steel and riveting on new galvanized steel angles with steel rivets.
Exactly what I did but I just used Galvanized flashing from HD and selaed with Vulkem

www.jegs.com and www.summitracing.com sell dragster wheel tubs. I think thats what William Henshel used when he did his coach.

thanks for the under coating tip Andy. I sealed mine up but I think I will do that also. I have not fished cleanign the frame in that area. Wanted to wait till I was ready to service the axle and make a final decision if I would be replacing it.
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Old 07-30-2004, 01:27 PM   #9
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Eric,
Speaking of "HD", that's were I went to the metal for my wheel wells. They wanted $19.47 for a 2'3' sheet of 26ga. galv. At the Menards, just down the street, it was $11.47 for a 2'4' sheet. $3.50 psf at HD vs. $1.50 psf at Menards! Couldn't believe it. By the way, the sheet metal guy up the street wanted $300 to reproduce both wheel wells. I told him I wanted galvanized, not gold.

Got my Sikaflex 221 from Austin Hardware yesterday. Charged me $5.36 per tube and $6 shipping for 8 tubes.
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Old 07-30-2004, 01:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Eric,
Speaking of "HD", that's were I went to the metal for my wheel wells. They wanted $19.47 for a 2'3' sheet of 26ga. galv. At the Menards, just down the street, it was $11.47 for a 2'4' sheet. $3.50 psf at HD vs. $1.50 psf at Menards! Couldn't believe it. By the way, the sheet metal guy up the street wanted $300 to reproduce both wheel wells. I told him I wanted galvanized, not gold.

Got my Sikaflex 221 from Austin Hardware yesterday. Charged me $5.36 per tube and $6 shipping for 8 tubes.
Really? I think I paid like $8 for the sheet I bought and I remember think I sould justo go the the steel supply place and I could probably get a 4x4 for $12. I used it for the step cavity because the aluminum that was there was corroded for the steel. The excess of that is what I used for the repair on the wheel wells.

Have you used the Vulkem 636? Post up how the sikaflex is compaired to the 636 if you have.
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Old 07-30-2004, 02:18 PM   #11
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I haven't used Vulkem. Almost bought some of the cheap stuff at HD just to try it, but decided not. I don't think the old stuff around my wheel wells was Vulkem, more like plain old putty.
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Old 07-30-2004, 02:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
I haven't used Vulkem. Almost bought some of the cheap stuff at HD just to try it, but decided not. I don't think the old stuff around my wheel wells was Vulkem, more like plain old putty.
Nope it was something else or a old formula. The new stff from Andy and Airstream dreams is totaly different. The vulkem is some tough stuff once dry. It sticks like nothing else I have seen. It becomes a rubber like glue with a pretty high durometer. I have a little drop that got on the frame near the bumper. It was about 3/8 diameter inch long and I made the mistake of not cleaning it off while I could with mineral spirits. I could not pull it off with my fingers. I had to grab it with a pair of plyers and it took a fair amount of effort to pull it off and it tore. Still have a little of it on the frame. I hope I never have to pull that shell again because it's glued on pretty good with the Vulkem.
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Old 07-30-2004, 05:22 PM   #13
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That's what I'm afraid of. Never getting it apart again. I think the marine industry must use this stuff to bed engines and gearboxes.
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:05 AM   #14
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Little squares

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
Yeah, I forgot that ti also has contact with the frame.
My wheelwells had a 3x3in square of aluminum in the corners, like for a spacer. Anyone else had these squares in there? I found them 1 ea. on all 4 inner corners of both wheelwells. What gives? Inquiring minds want to know....
I have the 4 small squares of metal in my 63 Bambi also. Have you come up with any new ideas of why they are there? Has anyone else mention their existence?
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