My wheel wells are corrodet near the bottom mounting flange, mostly the sections fore and aft of the wheels.
My plan is to make aluminum panels, give them the right bend, and rivet them to the galvanized metal that's still very healthy right above the bend.
I would seal the seams with Vulkem, to prevent water leaking on the floor when driving in the rain. Right now my frame is bare, and the floor is all gone, so it's easy to make repairs.
My concern is riveting aluminum over galvanized metal. Will it corrode over time, causing a very hard to repair problem? Should I use metal flashing instead?
I'm facing the same dilema. I think I will use galvanized instead of aluminum. The wheel well is galvanized and it is in direct contact with the steel frame, so i think steel is the appropriate choice. I just don't think steel/aluminum/steel is a very tasty sandwich.
Besides, I have some POR-15 left over.
Yeah, I forgot that ti also has contact with the frame.
My wheelwells had a 3x3in square of aluminum in the corners, like for a spacer. Anyone else had these squares in there? I found them 1 ea. on all 4 inner corners of both wheelwells. What gives? Inquiring minds want to know....
I'm in the process of repairing my wheel tubs.I'm cutting of the corroded steel and riveting on new galvanized steel angles with steel rivets.
Greg,
I'm doing the same. I think I will raise the wheel wells about 1" to allow more tire clearance for Marathons, which are larger diameter than my 7.00×14.5s. Are you doing the same?
thanks for the under coating tip Andy. I sealed mine up but I think I will do that also. I have not fished cleanign the frame in that area. Wanted to wait till I was ready to service the axle and make a final decision if I would be replacing it.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
Eric,
Speaking of "HD", that's were I went to the metal for my wheel wells. They wanted $19.47 for a 2'×3' sheet of 26ga. galv. At the Menards, just down the street, it was $11.47 for a 2'×4' sheet. $3.50 psf at HD vs. $1.50 psf at Menards! Couldn't believe it. By the way, the sheet metal guy up the street wanted $300 to reproduce both wheel wells. I told him I wanted galvanized, not gold.
Got my Sikaflex 221 from Austin Hardware yesterday. Charged me $5.36 per tube and $6 shipping for 8 tubes.
Eric,
Speaking of "HD", that's were I went to the metal for my wheel wells. They wanted $19.47 for a 2'×3' sheet of 26ga. galv. At the Menards, just down the street, it was $11.47 for a 2'×4' sheet. $3.50 psf at HD vs. $1.50 psf at Menards! Couldn't believe it. By the way, the sheet metal guy up the street wanted $300 to reproduce both wheel wells. I told him I wanted galvanized, not gold.
Got my Sikaflex 221 from Austin Hardware yesterday. Charged me $5.36 per tube and $6 shipping for 8 tubes.
Really? I think I paid like $8 for the sheet I bought and I remember think I sould justo go the the steel supply place and I could probably get a 4x4 for $12. I used it for the step cavity because the aluminum that was there was corroded for the steel. The excess of that is what I used for the repair on the wheel wells.
Have you used the Vulkem 636? Post up how the sikaflex is compaired to the 636 if you have.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
I haven't used Vulkem. Almost bought some of the cheap stuff at HD just to try it, but decided not. I don't think the old stuff around my wheel wells was Vulkem, more like plain old putty.
I haven't used Vulkem. Almost bought some of the cheap stuff at HD just to try it, but decided not. I don't think the old stuff around my wheel wells was Vulkem, more like plain old putty.
Nope it was something else or a old formula. The new stff from Andy and Airstream dreams is totaly different. The vulkem is some tough stuff once dry. It sticks like nothing else I have seen. It becomes a rubber like glue with a pretty high durometer. I have a little drop that got on the frame near the bumper. It was about 3/8 diameter inch long and I made the mistake of not cleaning it off while I could with mineral spirits. I could not pull it off with my fingers. I had to grab it with a pair of plyers and it took a fair amount of effort to pull it off and it tore. Still have a little of it on the frame. I hope I never have to pull that shell again because it's glued on pretty good with the Vulkem.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
Yeah, I forgot that ti also has contact with the frame.
My wheelwells had a 3x3in square of aluminum in the corners, like for a spacer. Anyone else had these squares in there? I found them 1 ea. on all 4 inner corners of both wheelwells. What gives? Inquiring minds want to know....
I have the 4 small squares of metal in my 63 Bambi also. Have you come up with any new ideas of why they are there? Has anyone else mention their existence?
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