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Old 06-16-2016, 09:03 AM   #29
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Those of you who have recoated -
Did you remove the caulking around the fixtures first? The fixture caulking isn't too old on my trailer.
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:34 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightmind View Post
I am leaning towards using Rustoleum Noxyde or Peganox on my rebuild, a 1977 Sovereign...

Rustoleum is a very good unactivated enamel in my opinion.


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Old 06-16-2016, 09:37 AM   #31
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Cool Imron 3500 vs 3.5

J Morgan,
Can the Imron 3500 be rolled and brushed on or is it just the Imron 3.5 that can be rolled and brushed. I checked the tech data and the 3500 only gives spray instructions. Have you successfully rolled or brushed the 3500?
I want to order this stuff but I believe the aircraft version 3500 might be even better than the 3.5 HG but I definitely can't spray the 3500 if indeed that's the only recommended application method.
If that's the case, I'll have to go with the Imron 3.5
Thanks, I really appreciate your input and info!
Bob
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:15 AM   #32
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I have a good friend in the commercial roofing biz. Ive been thinking about talking with him about the possibility of using a white EDPM membrane on the roof of my 310. Do you folks know of anyone who has done this before? Im thinking more for the reflective surface rather than water protection but of course youd get both if applied correctly. I think it comes in various thicknesses. I would think that the aluminum would provide a good surface to adhere to. Any thoughts?

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Old 06-16-2016, 10:33 AM   #33
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I should have said 3.5, I am stuck in the past. It is really the same stuff, just updated a bit.

It is equally brushable and rollable.


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Old 09-12-2016, 06:16 AM   #34
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You posted this at a perfect time in our renovation. We have a slick roof on our '65 Overlander and have been prepping it for new installs of fans, AC, antennae and skylights.

I have been polishing end pieces and debating whether to polish entire roof since it has not been done in 51 years or just give it a good rough up and paint a good heat barrier on it. Well, finished end pieces yesterday and ready to proceed with patches and either polishing or sanding.

I think it will be sanding and painting with the bus paint. 500 quizillion bus tops cannot be wrong.

Plus, my wife unit likes painting better than buffing BUT she loves to buck rivets.
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Old 09-12-2016, 08:33 AM   #35
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This IS a very timely thread....

I have been in contact with reRubber, a company in California that makes many different coatings that include ground up rubber from recycled truck tires. I have used their Automotive Coating to coat the frame and wheel well area of our Avion, and used same to undercoat our Bronco and F250. LOVED that product and recommend it highly. Easy to use, and very "green".

They have acrylic elastomeric roof coatings as well. They are sending me samples of a grey primer coating and their white Top Coat that includes glass spheres to help reflect heat/rays. Looking forward to receiving those this week.

Has anyone else here used any products from reRubber?

http://www.rerubber.com
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:26 AM   #36
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Rerubber sounds interesting. Would be interested in how you think it works out.

Did you apply the under coating yourself and if so what special tools did you need?
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:41 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eartick View Post
Rerubber sounds interesting. Would be interested in how you think it works out.

Did you apply the under coating yourself and if so what special tools did you need?

Their Automotive Coating was pretty awesome stuff. It is water-based, so your tools (brushes, sprayer.... And YOU!!!&#128512 clean up easily, especially before it is allowed to dry. Once dry, though, it is a very hard, durable coating. I brushed it on using a utility-grade brush.

The Automotive Coating can be used as a bed liner, also. And, maybe in some of reRubber's YouTube videos, I remember seeing entire vehicles coated with it.
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:44 AM   #38
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White Roof coating, would you do it again?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulnGina View Post
Their Automotive Coating was pretty awesome stuff. It is water-based, so your tools (brushes, sprayer.... And YOU!!!&#128512 clean up easily, especially before it is allowed to dry. Once dry, though, it is a very hard, durable coating. I brushed it on using a utility-grade brush.

The Automotive Coating can be used as a bed liner, also. And, maybe in some of reRubber's YouTube videos, I remember seeing entire vehicles coated with it.

Also, if you search the Forum for reRubber, I think I mentioned their product before, and posted a picture that shows the wheel well area of our Avion??

Picture might also be in my picture albums somewhere.
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:54 AM   #39
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Found it.....

Click image for larger version

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Old 02-12-2017, 08:09 AM   #40
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Did any of you remove the AC and vents and caulk before using the Bus Kote?
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Old 02-12-2017, 09:28 AM   #41
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Any white on roof helps lower temp inside but bus-kote has ceramic parcels in paint. I have used Imron, it will kill you if not using proper air mask. Yes Imron is a hard coat but not worth cost and effort to prep and apply on roof of AS. unless you are a pro. My #2 son has degree in auto repair and body work, my knowledge is first hand plus gov. restrictions on spray painting auto paints are enormous. Final Imron more exp than bus-kote. I would use but won't go on roof any more at 83 yrs. old. Not worth with little time left to use AS.
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Old 02-12-2017, 11:08 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airtandem View Post
Did any of you remove the AC and vents and caulk before using the Bus Kote?
.
I dinít remove the AC or vents, just took off the old caulk and reapplied prior to putting the bus kote on.
.
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