Step by Step: Replacing OEM skylights with new Custom Maxim Skylights

[Bambi_Bandit]

Problem 1: Original OEM skylights, leaking due to over torqued screws cracking the skylight during airstream manufacturing - replaced in June 2008 at JC... again, over torqued and cracked.....and leaking!

Problem 2: Hot as Hll in Texas. Dometic 15K barely keeping up (with issues of it's own) and direct sunlight making skylight into magnifying glass in trailer.

Problem 3: Storms in Texas able to drop hail size of various sporting goods balls from marble to golf to baseball...Need to ensure best impact resistance to minimize any hail intrusion.

Solution: Custom skylights made to fit current aluminum curb. Maxim skylights. (Untitled) Options of # of Domes and tint (light passthru) and frame (anodized or non), built to Miami Dade/Florida and Texas Coastal Hurricane wind and impact resistant skylights.

Specs on the the "hurricane resistant" model as attached:

[Bambi_Bandit]

(I have 2 skylights on my 27FB international. This thread will show the skylight replacement midship over the bathroom / hall area)

Peel back the caulk on the skylight screws.

Note the cracking on the caulk that is 1 year old from JC? This is what it looks like with the first 6 months in covered storage, followed by 6 months in the elements.

Also note the water on the screw head from the previous rain.

Can we see the large cracks from the over torqued screws?

The silver radiant barier is tucked in the skylight openeing from inside the trailer.

[Bambi_Bandit]

Gently work a stiff putty knife under a corner and pry... the rest will follow...

Note I left the radiant barrier in place to keep the AC in best I could during this process.

[Bambi_Bandit]

Take stiff putty knife and scrape the curb. Note that the welds on the corner are not ground down. Existing screw holes will be rough to work with the knife. Wire Brush will help.

Note: newer trailers with skylights installed with double sided tape adhesive versus screws should have welds ground down already.

[Bambi_Bandit]

Measure your curb and call / e-mail Maxim with your size. Note to get the outer curb size as well as the curb height.

Note that I measured height with the existing sealant / caulk in place since new sealant/caulk would take approximately the same height.

[Bambi_Bandit]

This is the most time consuming part. Take a stiff putty knife and scrape, scrape, scrape... Again, Wire brush will help.

After you have scraped and brushed most of what you can (even with your fingernails) use acetone to clean down to the metal.

Note that you DO NOT want to remove the caulk under the existing curb that is RIVETED down. Just get up as close to it as possible. The existing seal there will be covered with new caulk/sealant.

[Bambi_Bandit]

Take your favorite caulk/sealant and use like its going out of style. I used 2 tubes of 3M Marine 5200 and spread it like icing on a cake. The curb will NEVER leak now... (Never say never - I'm sure I just jinxed myself now)

***Use Gloves for this process, otherwise all your tools, ladder, and anything you touch will be a mess. Keep spares in your pocket to minimize runs up and down the ladder....****

[Stephen Mick]

Kevin,

You're got to stop posting stuff like this. It really make me want to get the tools out and rip into the top of my trailer!

--SM

[Bambi_Bandit]

You have 2 choices here. First, hopefully you will have gotten a new skylight from airstream or your dealer if under warranty and you can now caulk on and carefully screw the OEM skylight on for temporary use while you wait for Maxim to make your new custom skylights, OR, you already know your measurements from previous walks on the roof and have the new skylight from Maxim in hand.

On the skylight over the galley/kitchen, I was able to measure without removing the skylight. Others may have so much caulk on the curb that will require removal of the skylight to get an accurate measurement, as was the case for this skylight here.

I will skip showing the install of the OEM skylight for temporary use as most know how to do that properly without over torquing the screws...

Dry fit your new skylight on the curb. Note that the new Maxim skylights are built with 1/4 in tolerance on each side. This is a nice SNUG fit as compared to OEM.

Using a marker or scratch awl, mark areas where the new skylight will screw in. Note that the new Maxim skylights screw in horizontally on the curb.

Once you have figured out where your new skylight will "sit", remove it and liberally Apply your favorite caulk/adhesive to the top of the curb (not shown). Also apply large blobs of caulk where you marked the screw holes will be on the curb, since you will not be able to access this area once they skylight is on.

Go ahead and glob over the screw head as well... Even though we are using fasteners with neoprene gaskets that seal, you can never be sure...

Sorry for the lack of photos here - it was getting darn hot on that roof and I started to hurry!

[Bambi_Bandit]

Since we are going in horizontally and thru caulk blindly into the curb, a self tapping fastener is the ideal. Drilling would be a pain...

I went to home depot and purchased Crown Bolt #10 x 1 1/4 inch self tapping metal fasteners, as well as palram wood screws (metal roofing section) with and EDPM washers.

I then took the washers off the Palram wood screws and put them on the crown bolts. A self tapping fastener with EDPM washer. No drill needed now!!!


Product Information Error Page


Woodtite Woodtite 1 In. - 50 Pc. - 92522 at The Home Depot

[Bambi_Bandit]

I opted for a double dome, both bronze) with 7% light transmission, as well as a clear flat on the "inside". total of (3) layers of polycarbonate for protection and better insulation. I also selected the anodized aluminum frame.

Here are the specs of my skylights as made by Maxim, as well as views of the completed install.

Total cost of skylights was ~$300 (~$150 each) 6 tubes of caulk were ~$12 each (on sale at West Marine) and fasteners from Home depot were ~$14.

The skylight lets in a bronze light, which I love as it complements the dark "espresso" colored laminate of the International CCD.

[3Ms75Argosy]

Cool Kevin (pardon the pun!). I might just use Maxium to replace my '64 Solordome instead of the fiberglass replacements. I wonder if my stock openers would rivet on the frame too?
Marc

[Astroboy]

Wow.

Wow. Wow. Wow.

Wow x 100, & more.

I've been staring up my skylight (cracked and duct-taped) for several weeks and pondering about its replacement for something better than an OEM plastic.

Fortunately for me, you beat me to it.

Thank you for the write-up and photos.

[Josie28]

great thing thank u