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Old 06-05-2014, 12:52 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Bluto View Post
What color did you get for the dome? Just wonder what colors work the best?
Living in the north, I chose Clear-bronze-clear. You might choose bronze-bronze-clear in the southland.

They say opaque white is the most heat reducing, but I like to see the sky.......
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:54 PM   #16
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I have a 93 Excella and the plastic is shot. The rest of the fan unit is fine but probably OEM. SHould I just replace the plastic dome or the whole unit? Advice?
These are for stationary skylight replacement, not fan lid replacement. For the fan, you would just replace the lift dome from OEM supplier.
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Old 07-18-2014, 03:45 PM   #17
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skylight replacement

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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
X3, very high quality. Won't have to mess with them for many years. I only have one complaint. The black sealer used between the layers of polycarbonate has oozed out a bit between the layers and is visible from inside the AS. No way to fix. It is what it is.

The sealer used oozed out on mine as well. Attached is a pic. You can see the black Ooze in the corners. The ooze does not affect the seal between the layers of polycarbonate. According to the manufacturer, the ooze is normal and will not affect the structural integrity of the skylight. Otherwise very good quality skylight. I highly recommend getting one. Much better than OEM. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-18-2014, 04:00 PM   #18
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Well, update...mine was worse than yours, but I called and sent pics and they are sending me 2 new ones under warranty.

I gather that my new ones are a bit of an experiment where they are laying (as I understand it) a band of foam tape between the sealed portion, behind the aluminum, to act as a dam, preventing the flow into the visible area.

They have to use this particular sealer to prevent condensation between layers, I was told. David said they heated the prototypes to 350* and the tape worked.

The implication was that ASes must be different than residential applications and maybe hotter?? So I took my oven thermometer (digital) and stuck the probe up under the aluminum and regardless of outside temp, in full sun, it is only 25 - 50* hotter in the area of flow than ambient. So, I don't know.....BUT, Maxim is standing up and trying to resolve for AS applications. And that is a very good thing.

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Old 07-18-2014, 04:46 PM   #19
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Thanks for the info update dmzfOg. I called the manufacturer today and they didn't offer a replacement; although in fairness I didn't ask. I hope mine doesn't get worse. Currently I can live with the negative aesthetic. I'm in the midst of home renovations and I currently don't want to add to my workload. if it gets worse, I'll ask the company for a replacement. They did assure me that the ooze is normal and will not affect the integrity of the seal between polycarbonate layers. We'll see...
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:49 PM   #20
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They did say some visibility from a narrow angle is normal, and I agree. Mine had oozed out over an inch in one area (the corner). They felt that was excessive.
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:49 PM   #21
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These Maxims are for skylights... not for fan vent covers. You will need to replace the fan vent covers to keep the fan function.
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:08 AM   #22
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Replaced both of my skylights on 2004 Classic. Was surprised to discover the only thing hold the old skylights in was the caulking. All the hold down screws holes were broken and a BIG glob of caulking on top. The Maxim skylights are the only way to go. David at Maxim is was very helpful in getting the right size. The hardest part on the installation is getting all the old sealant off that had built up over the years by the PO's.
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:29 AM   #23
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I just went through the replacing skylight with maxim top, which are real nice, and after getting the old tops off could see the cracks in the old cheap stuff.

After removing the old stuff i removed the old caulking around the base flange and re caulked with dicor.

I used a silk flex RTV 7000 silicon sealant/adhesive and did not install screws in sides as the silicon was fine.

Put a nice bead of RTV on top of flange over the old screw holes, sat the new top down and get it centered and let dry. did smooth out excess on inside of opening to make it look nice.

after a day of drying and sun tried to push it off.. I pushed hard and no movement so no screws in side..

to remove i would have to get a knife blade between the flange and skylight to start it breaking loose..

ps: i got the clear bronze clear in front unit, clear white frosted white in rear and they are great.. can see out of front one and get good diffused light in rear and the heat load is cut in half or better.
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