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**azflycaster** · 03-26-2012, 07:41 AM

I have been trying to correct the lack of TV reception on my 75 TW this past weekend and have determined that there is a problem with the antenna line from the roof to the connector in the kitchen. My solution is to run coax along the roof and down the refrigerator vent.

When trying to run a line down, there appears to be screening at the top of the vent that prevents the coax from being pushed down the vent.

Should I remove the vent cover to gain access to the vent or is there an easier way? It looks like 10 rivets hold the vent in place, so it should not be that big of a job and I have sealant and olympic rivets to put it back in place.

marzboy · 03-26-2012, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azflycaster

I have been trying to correct the lack of TV reception on my 75 TW this past weekend and have determined that there is a problem with the antenna line from the roof to the connector in the kitchen. My solution is to run coax along the roof and down the refrigerator vent.

When trying to run a line down, there appears to be screening at the top of the vent that prevents the coax from being pushed down the vent.

Should I remove the vent cover to gain access to the vent or is there an easier way? It looks like 10 rivets hold the vent in place, so it should not be that big of a job and I have sealant and olympic rivets to put it back in place.

The best way to do that would be to drill out the solid rivets run the cable seal it good with Trempro 635 and reinstall lid with Olympic rivets.

68 TWind · 03-26-2012, 08:18 AM

I don't know how far down the vent the screen is positioned but I would not take it off if I didn't have to. It is old and brittle. Maybe just use a bent piece of rod to poke a small hole in the screen. Use a mechanic mirror on a stick to see what you are doing. I had to remove the vent on my 68 TW to repair cracks and it was somewhat fragile.

**azflycaster** · 03-26-2012, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68 TWind

I don't know how far down the vent the screen is positioned but I would not take it off if I didn't have to. It is old and brittle. Maybe just use a bent piece of rod to poke a small hole in the screen. Use a mechanic mirror on a stick to see what you are doing. I had to remove the vent on my 68 TW to repair cracks and it was somewhat fragile.

I don't think that will be a problem, my vent cover is aluminum. Getting a look from the top is almost impossible because of the way the vent is designed. I had thought about drilling a hole in the side of the vent which should be below the screen, but installing a place for a possible leak is against the prime directive...

Inland RV Center, In · 03-26-2012, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azflycaster

I don't think that will be a problem, my vent cover is aluminum. Getting a look from the top is almost impossible because of the way the vent is designed. I had thought about drilling a hole in the side of the vent which should be below the screen, but installing a place for a possible leak is against the prime directive...

Rich.

Take a short phillips screwdriver and enlarge a hole in the reefer vent screen.

That's what any dealer would do.

Andy

Gene · 03-26-2012, 09:23 AM

Richard, I'd look first at punching a small hole in the screen and see if you can position a rubber grommet in it to protect the wire. I'd avoid piercing the skin or removing rivets if you can avoid it.

Can you remove the existing antenna wire and using it to fish a new one through? The skin is already pierced there anyway. If you can do that you might consider adding an antenna for wifi and/or a cell booster too as you may want that soon. A wire for a solar system at the same time would also be future planning.

Gene

**azflycaster** · 04-01-2012, 08:52 AM

Drilled out the 10 rivets that hold the vent cover and snaked the coax down into the back of the fridge area. Next step is to drill a hole into the cabinet next to the fridge and attach it to the TV connector.

The coax on the roof needs to be secured. I am thinking of running it to the patio awning rail and then back to the vent. I can secure it to the awning rail with some Tempro, but what about the 3 feet of coax that is on top of the roof from the antenna to the rail?

Inland RV Center, In · 04-01-2012, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azflycaster

Drilled out the 10 rivets that hold the vent cover and snaked the coax down into the back of the fridge area. Next step is to drill a hole into the cabinet next to the fridge and attach it to the TV connector.

The coax on the roof needs to be secured. I am thinking of running it to the patio awning rail and then back to the vent. I can secure it to the awning rail with some Tempro, but what about the 3 feet of coax that is on top of the roof from the antenna to the rail?

Rich.

You can spot coat the cable with some Vulkem, and secure it to the roof. Then let the Vulkem age up a few days, which is easy if you "do not" move the trailer.

Or, you can get some aluminum "cable clamps" and install them with rivets to hold the cable in place.

Or, you can easily bend a few clamps, from some soft aluminum.

Do not use any "steel" clamps.

Andy

**azflycaster** · 04-01-2012, 09:04 AM

Thanks Andy.
I think I will go with the Vulkem method as I am trying to avoid any additional holes in the skin. The trailer will not be moving for a couple of weeks

and I have a few additional projects that I am working on at this time.

After this I am adding curtain rails to the kitchen and bathroom windows.

Inland RV Center, In · 04-01-2012, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azflycaster

Thanks Andy.
I think I will go with the Vulkem method as I am trying to avoid any additional holes in the skin. The trailer will not be moving for a couple of weeks

and I have a few additional projects that I am working on at this time.

After this I am adding curtain rails to the kitchen and bathroom windows.

Rich.

Make sure the galley window curtains are far away from the stove.

Andy

**azflycaster** · 04-01-2012, 10:00 AM

Not a problem. The window on my 75 TW is not close. We currently have a chepo curtain rod installed and are replacing it with rails that will use the standard T & G type sliders.

Gene · 04-01-2012, 11:22 AM

Richard, there is super tape that will adhere to the roof and never come off voluntarily. Lewster taped our solar panels to the roof with it. A big roll is very expensive, but maybe you can find a small roll. I saw some tape at a big box store that claimed to be super strong. If you get the two sided tape, you could tape the fridge vent cover, seal the old holes with goop and not penetrate the roof again. You could tape yourself to the roof and have a wild ride.

Coming our way soon? If not, see you at the Balloon Fiesta.

Gene

**azflycaster** · 04-01-2012, 12:21 PM

I thought about the double sided tape and I do have a roll of the really good stuff, but with the extra large sun we have where I live it might not hold.

I finished running the cable into the trailer, added the coax ends and attached everything. Prior to this I was able to find 6 stations when I did a scan. Now I can find 45 stations, a giant improvement.

I have spent too much time on the roof lately...

Gene · 04-01-2012, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azflycaster

I thought about the double sided tape and I do have a roll of the really good stuff, but with the extra large sun we have where I live it might not hold.

I sure hope it does because I don't want to leave my solar panels somewhere with an "extra large sun".

Gene