Paint Roof White

[Dakota Skipper]

I thought painting the top of my 1987 Excella white was going to be easy after reading this discussion, but the more I read the more confused and complicated it seems to be.

This is what Interlux says the preparation needs to be for aluminum:

• Clean with Interlux 216 Special Thinner.

• Prime surface with Interlux Viny-Lux Primer Wash 353/354 thinned with Viny-Lux 355.

• One or two coats of Interlux Pre-Kote Primer, possibly thinned with 333 thinner.

• One or two coats of Interlux Brightside Polyurethane Blue-Glo White thinned with 333 thinner with light sanding between coats.

Can any of these steps be replaced with an aluminum prep? What is the difference between Metal Prep 79 and Alumiprep 33?

And when I stopped at the local auto parts store to check on a metal prep, he told me to just use white vinegar.

[Melody Ranch]

Use of acid to brighten and prep aluminum for painting....I just cant go there again.

The vinegar is acidic and will mildly etch for you. The acid etch primer will too. To make it easy, follow the instructions.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Dakota Skipper

I thought painting the top of my 1987 Excella white was going to be easy after reading this discussion, but the more I read the more confused and complicated it seems to be.

This is what Interlux says the preparation needs to be for aluminum:

• Clean with Interlux 216 Special Thinner.

• Prime surface with Interlux Viny-Lux Primer Wash 353/354 thinned with Viny-Lux 355.

• One or two coats of Interlux Pre-Kote Primer, possibly thinned with 333 thinner.

• One or two coats of Interlux Brightside Polyurethane Blue-Glo White thinned with 333 thinner with light sanding between coats.

Can any of these steps be replaced with an aluminum prep? What is the difference between Metal Prep 79 and Alumiprep 33?

And when I stopped at the local auto parts store to check on a metal prep, he told me to just use white vinegar.

Etching the metal on an Airstream, with acid, of any kind, is a joke. Best way in the world to create water leaks down the road.

If your going to paint the roof, get serious about it.

Sand, yes sand, into the metal with 120 to 150 grit sandpaper. Not "scuff," but sand, in a serious way.

Surface preparation is always the key to painting metal.

After the metal is "sanded," clean it up with a "good" lacquer thinner. You can then seal the seams. Then apply a couple of double wet coats of flexible "epoxy" primer. Let the primer "out gas" foe a few days.

Then paint the primer with a good auto paint, again applying at least 2 double wet coats.

If you really want to jazz it up, cover the white paint with "clear" auto paint. If you chose to do that, you must apply the clear while the white is "tacky."

Now you would have a paint job, that is first class. Hail will not chip or crack it, nor will a severe bend, like a tree falling on the roof.

We have been painting Airstream trailers for many years using the above procedure. We have many "metallic silver" paint jobs out in the field.

Anyone that has visited out facility and asks about "painting," is shown a door from a motorhome that was painted, that is severely bent and damaged, yet, there is not one single crack or chip in the paint. Some of them are members of this Forums. A recent visitor was "beginner".

Spray can painting a large area, is a joke and a half. The paint is not top quality, and you would need a dumpster for the empty spray cans.

Spray painting is not a secret art. But, if not done correctly, it will disappoint you in a short period of time.

Leaving the clearcoat on the roof and applying any material on top of it, will quickly fail, as you must get to the metal.

Applying white roof sealers, is another no no. When it rains, traces of that sealer will streak the sides of your trailer, big time.

If you want to maximize the cooling effect of a white roof, the white paint should start at the middle of the side windows.

Painting "just" the roof will help, but not as much as you may think it would, unless you paint down to the center of those windows.

Been there, done that, for over 40 years.

Andy

[Joe Crooks]

I just purchased a '78 22' Argosy. It needs paint and has a basketball size dent in the rear of the roof. Is there a process using suction cup technology to fix the dent? Where is the paint available for repainting? Also, I am looking to replace the fiberglass strip in the rear that holds the tail lights...any clues as to where I can buy this?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Joe Crooks

I just purchased a '78 22' Argosy. It needs paint and has a basketball size dent in the rear of the roof. Is there a process using suction cup technology to fix the dent? Where is the paint available for repainting? Also, I am looking to replace the fiberglass strip in the rear that holds the tail lights...any clues as to where I can buy this?

Trailer or motorhome?

Where on the roof?

If the dent is in the top end cap, you will never pull it out, but in can be filled Bondo and then painted.

Don't use the original paints. They were junk materials, at best.

For a good paint job, you should completely strip whats on the coach now.

The tail light bezels were made with plastic. Sounds like someone has already attempted some repairs.

That bezel has not been available for at least 25 years.

Some owners, remove it, throw it away, and install tail lights that are used on the Airstream trailers.

Since your going to paint the coach, now would be a good time for that task.

Andy

[Arizona Guys]

We have 34', 1996 which I think is first year Airstream started using the pre painted roof. Since ours sits in the hot AZ sun the roof seems to have faded and seems to be in need of a new paint job. We want to repaint and hope with new roof pant, that what ever we use, will help us get more use during the hot summer months here in AZ as it is now if temp is over 100 dep our 15,000 btu AC just does not cool enough to allow comfortable use. Andy, at Inland seems to have best idea; however, just wonder if it would also be solution for Arizona? Any idea of cost?

[JimGolden]

Hey Arizona,

The key to painting aluminum is that you have to etch it first. Then you have to use the proper primer. If you don't do these processes, it'll wash off after a few good rains.

When I did my roof, I got the etcher from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. A half gallon would probably be enough for you (it was for my 34 foot Avion). After etching it, I then painted it with aircraft zinc chromate primer, ala US Airways had left over. Once that's done, you can paint it with whatever oil based paint you like.

Now in your case, if it's factory painted, the hard part is already done for you. Airstream already etched it and primed it. All you should have to do is lightly wet sand the old paint, wash it off clean, and then repaint with white oil paint.

I used Rustoleum gloss white and put it on with a 4" wide foam roller. It does a really nice job, doesn't leave brush marks, and looks great. Mine's been on for just about five years now. It was starting to fade in a few areas, so I cleaned it up and put on another coat. It looks great now.

The bright gloss white really does help a lot. Going from silver to white cut my interior heat by a full 10 degrees F. I then replaced my old Coleman Delta T 13,500 btu a/c with a new Carrier AiRV 15,000 and it'll get like an igloo in there.

best of luck,

[Arizona Guys]

Thanks for your reply.

Ralph Wood
Scottsdale

[DryFly]

I'm just finishing painting the roof of our 72 Argosy with Hyperseal. We live in the PNW and my reason for using this product is not to keep the heat down but to protect the roof from leaks. The one of the previous owners did some dicey patch jobs which I repaired before applying the Hyperseal. I've used this product on a couple of commercial buildings and was very impressed. I called the factory to confirm it could be used on an aluminum trailer, and actually got to speak with the gentleman that invented Hyperseal! I'll post some pics when it's all done. Here's a link to the website Hyperseal Inc - Cool Roof Coatings, Rubber Paints, Zinc Flake

[ricknach]

GlenCoombe has the right idea but you need to take it a step further. You need to appily three coats of paint, the last coat is mixed 50/50 with high gloss clear. Then appily a gloss coat over that. We do this on boats all the time and it will leave a white top that will last 10 years.
Rick N

[VeggieBullet]

Originally Posted by DryFly

I'm just finishing painting the roof of our 72 Argosy with Hyperseal. We live in the PNW and my reason for using this product is not to keep the heat down but to protect the roof from leaks. The one of the previous owners did some dicey patch jobs which I repaired before applying the Hyperseal. I've used this product on a couple of commercial buildings and was very impressed. I called the factory to confirm it could be used on an aluminum trailer, and actually got to speak with the gentleman that invented Hyperseal! I'll post some pics when it's all done. Here's a link to the website Hyperseal Inc - Cool Roof Coatings, Rubber Paints, Zinc Flake

interesting product....thanks for the link, we ar also looking for options for our new project. please get some pics up whenever you can....we all love pics

[Ditter]

I have a 1994 30’ classic and the roof is white from factory. I just ordered bus-Kote to re finish old white roof which i wax 2 times a year and still chalks, bus/Kote has ceramic chips and is suppose to reduce heat absorption. It reflect uv rays and help take load off of AC. Will see how it works

[Stuckinmud]

Great thread. I particularly like the Rivet Maters post. Spot on.

I might add if you have a vintage trailer. It would be shame to sand the and paint it. Polish it to a mirror finish and it will reflect the sun and heat like nothing else.

Roll on...

[PizzaChop]

Copied and saved Andy's instructions years ago, knowing that one day I would face the "ugly beast" of removing the two coats of elastomaric (KoolSeal) paint I had applied years ago.

It was as bad as I had imagined. After pressure washing, applied citrus stripper and covered with plastic and most of it was softened up within a couple hours, but was a real pain (and gooey mess) to remove. (Sorry, no pics of this...too embarrassed)

Presssure washed.

Prepped entire roof with 80 grit sand paper and DA (dual action sander) for a good mechanical bond of the primer.

Pressure washed again.

Masked off entire unit with tape and lightweight plastic (12').

Used Evercoat 4:1 finish sanding primer (direct to metal, 2k polyester primer we use for car restos) after sealing every rivet with Trempro 635. (Not sure I'd do that again, as the viscosity of primer combined with 2 coats of finish paint was probably plenty and the rivets would have looked nicer).

Used the Harbor Freight purple gun (HVLP) with 2.0mm tip.

Next day, carefully dry sanded primer with 320 grit sponge for smooth. (Wet sanding would be ideal but didn't want to risk having to re-mask the unit after washing off). Settled for compressed air.

There were a few small spots where the primer did not take (possible moisture from my sweat?) so I feathered out with 320 and spot primered with Transtar 2 in1 4603 before applying the first coat of paint.

Used an entire quart of Utech 500 urethane automotive paint (w/ hardner) for first coat but had obvious "shadows" here and there so ran down to purchase more (Friday evening) and applied 2nd coat the following day.
Used a MacTools HVLP gun with 1.5mm tip for the white paint.

Overall, happy with results.

The problem with the Kool Seal (as Andy said) is it works great for about 3-4 years, but after 5 it starts to "bleed". The 2nd coat did fix this until another 4-5 years.

Hopefully, with the many hours and quality of materials involved, I won't be doing this again.