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Old 09-17-2015, 06:27 PM   #15
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Your average white roof coating will help a lot. How much better is this stuff than regular white roof coating? I don't see any data. Most paints use ceramics (metal oxides) for pigmentation. So saying ceramic paint is somewhat redundant. White is much better at rejecting heat than polished aluminum. Paints are also by nature insulators because they are made of plastics and ceramics that don't conduct heat well. The coating being so thin makes this not such a big deal. Is this stuff better than regular white roof coating, maybe but by how much? It is probably less than 10%. So do the math and see if that 10% is worth extra money. If it does not cost much more than regular paint then go for it.

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Old 09-17-2015, 08:00 PM   #16
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I coated the roof of my trailer with Supertherm. It is a ceramic paint. The difference between this coating and a car surface with factory white paint is stunning. The car surface is hot to the touch. You can't keep your hand on it. the Supertherm surface feels cool to the touch. I would say ambient air temp.
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:45 PM   #17
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I coated the roof of my trailer with Supertherm. It is a ceramic paint. The difference between this coating and a car surface with factory white paint is stunning. The car surface is hot to the touch. You can't keep your hand on it. the Supertherm surface feels cool to the touch. I would say ambient air temp.
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Al, is that similar to the Hy-Tech stuff? How was prep/apply?
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:28 PM   #18
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Any running with super therm?
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:52 PM   #19
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Not sure how it compares to the hy-tech coating. I lightly sanded the area that I painted and then applied it with a roller and used a brush for cutting in the edges of the area and around fittings on the roof. It left a textured surface.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:14 PM   #20
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Not sure how it compares to the hy-tech coating. I lightly sanded the area that I painted and then applied it with a roller and used a brush for cutting in the edges of the area and around fittings on the roof. It left a textured surface.
Al
Ok, all that is available is the Supertherm in 5 gallons for about $200. So you used it right out of the pail? How much coverage? How many coats? How long ago? Easy to clean? Does your AS spend all its time outside! If not, how much under cover?
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:35 PM   #21
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does anyone know if this stuff will "chalk" after 5 yrs. or so and cause streaking on the lower part? thx
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:08 PM   #22
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does anyone know if this stuff will "chalk" after 5 yrs. or so and cause streaking on the lower part? thx
Per conversations with them, you do not get the 'chalking' effect with this product...also, you can put a 'clear' topcoat for added protection and ease of cleaning. That would fully eliminate any 'chalking' as the 'protective' coating would be the consumable, and it is clear.

This stuff is for coating the tops of busses... especially school busses which drag their roofs through lots of trees and live 'outside' most of the year, moving almost 9 months out of the year..

Our local 'bus barn' has a hundred or so for the skule dis-trick....I stopped by to discuss with the Maintenance Supervisor.. he said "We have never had a leak or need to recoat and there is no 'chalking' of our roofs which are NOT top sealed." But, then, this is Texas, the sun probably just atomizes the roof from a solid to a vapor...

I ordered and received my shipment today of the Bus-Kote...., primer and sealants...

Roof was 'cleaned' yesterday... all day project... as I also removed a LOT of mold!!! Check out the pics of before/after... this is the 'ZipDee Awning Roof Key' which is a strip of fabric between the roof and the aluminum awning cover... Close inspection of the roof pic will show the difference when clean and not:
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Old 10-06-2015, 02:51 PM   #23
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looks interesting, thx for pics etc. hope i have time before cold weather!
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:26 PM   #24
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Trying to complete roof prep. Found failing antenna coax. Worked 3'hours trying to remove the baseplate!

Still have another couple to go!
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:38 PM   #25
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Two more hours.. as sun dropped..

I decided to replace all of the Sensor.... all of it...

As the sun set in the West, I continued my ATTEMPTED removal of the Sensar baseplate.... over 7 hours...

I don't know who or what installed this!!! I struggled and struggled... working to separate the wonderful, outstanding, excellent, superb Sensar baseplate from my equally special Airstream roof!

There was a solid layer of some white nuclear waste with the attraction of a Black Hole!... The entire baseplate, from the center drilled hole for deploying and turning the Sensar Antenna, out 2 inches around the perimeter of the baseplate..!!!

Yet, there was WATER underneath in places.. the whole 'front' under the baseplate... which appeared to have saturated over the years from rain... the whole thing appeared to be a 'fiberous' mess....it was also packed into the hole where the coax was supposed to enter the roof... and it appeared to be the same nuclear waste, black hole attraction... how, in the name of all that is UN-holy could this POSSIBLY leak??? For the remainder of this post I will refer to the Black Hole Goo as 'sealant'

Ok, yes, it leaked... and... It took hammering of a couple heavy duty paint scrapers between the roof and the baseplate.... constantly scraping to pull out chunks of the 'sealant'... to eventually separate the two... wow..

Feeling better, I then saw there was a plastic grommet protecting the hole in the roof from being damaged by the Coax... It had been filled with the 'sealant', totally bonding the coax to the grommet and roof... now what? Frustrated, I used needle nose pliers to pull chunks of the 'sealant', finally, with brute force, freeing the grommet... but the coax... well, will end up in the trash dump.

Now, 'gently' tugging on the coax, it barely moved.. great... all this work and now it is stuck...

Nope... it starts moving! I get a couple of feet of coax out then what shows up? THE Connector!!!!! I found the 'coupling connector' where the Airstream folks had connected the Sensar coax!!! Amazing.. It was still taped up with some great black electrical tape, also from somewhere near the Black Hole! I carefully cut away the black tape....revealing the connections.. and the connectors were tight!

Hooray!!! I carefully unscrewed the coax connector and what did I find? WATER and CORROSION!!! Really!!! Water and Corrosion!!! Wow.... So, I was in shock... how could this be...?

Ok, press on... I removed the 'coupler'... and what did I find? hmmm? no water... just corrosion! So, I cleaned it up... then checked... NO VOLTAGE! Oh, no... a bad cable in the Airstream shell!!!??? Nope... Defective wall module! Replaced the wall module... snugged up all connections... and what? I now have proper voltage at the roof!!! Good.

It's dark... so, I clean up things and head in for the night.. Tomorrow, I hope to complete the install.

Next post... using 'proper sealant'...

Will put up the pics soon... and hopefully a completed picture tomorrow..
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:49 PM   #26
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Water often travels down coaxial cable from unsealed connections out in the rain. It ruins the coax totally.

Get some silicone self-sealing tape from Radio Shack or your local big box store and wrap any exposed connections with it once you verify there is no water in the connector. Just cleaning the connections will not prevent trapped water from corroding the shield part of the coax and making it useless.

Been there, had water dripping out of the far end of some rather expensive Ham Radio coax. Ruined the whole run.


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Old 10-07-2015, 12:21 AM   #27
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baseplate separated!

Here, hopefully are the pics... of the Baseplate off the roof.
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Old 10-13-2015, 10:19 PM   #28
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Roof, one more coat..

Here are pics... one more coat... for total of 3... tomorrow. Company recommends two.

Significantly cooler inside and can put hand on the roof with no temperature concern..
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