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Old 07-08-2010, 08:22 PM   #41
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The OEM air conditioner was screwed to the top of the trailer.

Vulkem old, hard, and dry, over 15 screws on each tab.



I waited until the heat of the day to remove the screws. Nice!

I cut the edge loose and then went inside and jacked it up.



The jack is a load stabilizer from a truck. I zip tied it to a board so it wouldn't fall over and scab up the floor. Did I mention I work alone?



When I went back up top, the unit was balanced on the jack and floating 1 inch above the trailer top. I rolled it onto the slab door I'm using as an auxiliary work platform without damaging the unit. When my son came to pick up his two sons from grandma day-care, he helped me set the unit in the tractor bucket. I strapped it in the bucket and stored it inside. The unit is all there and the fan runs. The shroud is good but it needs to be cleaned and painted. I didn't bang anything up taking it down.




The weight of the old unit is at the front of the hole and about 2 feet back from the front of the hole. The hole itself is not supported at all on three sides.

The new unit sets in the hole but it has weight distribution pads in addition to the seal. The new unit is just held by 4 long bolts installed from the inside. The new unit is a DuTherm 13.5. I picked it up from a dealer yesterday for $540 including 4% tax. The RV dealer quoted me 700 for this unit and 300 to install it. I doubt he'd install it for 300 after he saw those cemented in 60 screws.




The new unit came with the inside trim designed for a flat ceiling. I expect I'll just make a couple nice fillers.

Before I install the new unit I'll reinforce the hole and extend my support to all 4 neighboring ribs. It looks like the back of the unit will set on the rear rib, so the reinforced hole will have the job of compacting the seal and keeping the water out. If I live long enough to ever change this unit out, next time it'll take a couple hours . . . maybe.




I left the job season overnight with a nice tarp covering the roof.
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Old 07-10-2010, 03:10 PM   #42
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New Air Conditioner

The new air conditioner is installed and test running. I got the old one loose and on the scaffold by myself and my son helped me gently lay it in the tractor dirt bucket. The new one, I got installed by myself. I blanket wrapped the new one and tied it in the bucket, removed the scaffold side stabilizers at the top level and laid the new unit on the scaffold deck with the loader.

Then I just lifted it onto the old hole that I reinforced with 1 1/2" dried untreated ribs and cross supports. I cut the ribs to the profile of the old air conditioner trim. They were 1 3/4" thick and 20" long. I installed three hoops and two lateral roof supports, so the roof is supported back to the first body rib behind the air conditioner. From the top, the body has a nice visual radius under the new unit. The gasket compressed more than in half in the center and not as much on the sides. I installed a car windshield seal under the gasket, so we'll see how well I did.

The original roof hole was off center by about 3/4" to the curb side when measured by the interior roof panel trim strips. Maybe the trim strips are not equally spaced. Whatever . . . It's not going to bother me if the unit is leak free and it cools. There was no insulation in the roof center section. I guess that surprised me a little. No problem, I'da had to remove it anyway to add my support system.

This is my major deal for a while. Now, I'll repair a few floor boards after I get the leaking windows and ? fixed.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:58 PM   #43
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I use my forklift. I put an empty pallet on the forks and lift is up so one edge of the pallet is resting on the top of the trailer. Then I climb up the forklift. It makes a great work platform.

...doesn't everyone have a forklift?
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Old 07-14-2010, 10:02 PM   #44
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This wife is the one who does all of the work on the roof
Easy way to get up there? On my AS, I drill out the four rivets holding one of the vent covers on (usually the back one because it seems to have the most support) then climb on up through there onto the roof!

Of course, we decided to not replace the old AC unit because we like the streamlined look of her without it up there so we got a portable indoor unit
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Old 07-15-2010, 07:39 AM   #45
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Quote:
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Of course, we decided to not replace the old AC unit because we like the streamlined look of her without it up there so we got a portable indoor unit
How do you vent that portable AC?
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Old 07-15-2010, 09:22 PM   #46
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I don't have a forklift, but maybe I can convince my wife I need one since she is resisting the idea she work on the roof.

I thought I could build a pole barn with an access door in the middle to get to the Airstream roof. I'd rather climb up and down a ladder to a flat roof than a curved one, or I could install stairs to the pole barn roof.

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Old 07-16-2010, 05:14 AM   #47
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@Splitrock - we're still in the remodeling stage so I was able to be a little more flexible. I have the vent coming out of the most forward storage door on the driver's side - cut a 4" hole and have a dryer vent with those 3 little flaps on the outside. I can post pictures early next week if you would like. When the remodel is done the flexible vent pipe will end up coming out from under the platform the marine stove will be on (it's like the stove here HALIBUT COOKSTOVE INFO & SPECS. except from the late 1800's) and the pipe will be able to be stowed under there when not in use.

And @Gene - I think Airstream owners are the only ones who could reason that building a new pole barn is warranted so that roof access to the AS is easy
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Old 07-16-2010, 10:02 AM   #48
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@Splitrock - we're still in the remodeling stage so I was able to be a little more flexible. I have the vent coming out of the most forward storage door on the driver's side - cut a 4" hole and have a dryer vent with those 3 little flaps on the outside. I can post pictures early next week if you would like. When the remodel is done the flexible vent pipe will end up coming out from under the platform the marine stove will be on (it's like the stove here HALIBUT COOKSTOVE INFO & SPECS. except from the late 1800's) and the pipe will be able to be stowed under there when not in use.

Thanks for the reply. Interesting! I'd love to see pictures.

Gary
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:24 PM   #49
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Quote:
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And @Gene - I think Airstream owners are the only ones who could reason that building a new pole barn is warranted so that roof access to the AS is easy
Or, I could dig a big hole with a ramp down to it, back the Airstream down into it and then, walk onto the roof.

Gene
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Old 07-17-2010, 06:32 AM   #50
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Some where in here I seen a picture of someone who used 2 gantry cranes for their work, one held the AC and the other the floating platform they laid on. Because it was all electric they had remotes to control everything. This is what gave me my idea of the gantry crane and scaffolds. but my medical conditions are pretty much keeping down so it looks like I will have to pay someone to do my work.

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Old 07-17-2010, 12:20 PM   #51
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I lean a ladder up over the door with a towel under/around the ladder. Replacing the AC I would go the scaffold route. Be alot easier and wouldn't have to sweat out staying on the ribs while you handle the unit on and off.

...If you're gonna tape for AFV, put a mini trampoline about four feet from the rear end and go for it!
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:14 AM   #52
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...If you're gonna tape for AFV, put a mini trampoline about four feet from the rear end and go for it!
LOL, if you put one at each end or on each side that would be a good way to do quick visual inspections and have fun at the same time.
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:42 AM   #53
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this setup might work for a quick inspection.
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Old 07-25-2010, 02:17 PM   #54
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I sealed a sewer vent from the ladder. The coach wheels provided a nice place to tie off on.

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Old 07-26-2010, 09:30 AM   #55
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Splitrock,
That's a nice tip. Thanks!
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:53 AM   #56
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Ladder tie under trailer

There's no good place to tie off the ladder on this side so I run a long strap under the trailer and tie it off on the scaffold on the other side.

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To attach a support to the ladder, I just countersink two self tapping screws through the board, into the ladder.

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This almost completes my topside work. I'll seal all the window and door tops and the top of the awing track and then I think I'm done with the top.

Gary
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:28 PM   #57
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As I was scrubbing the roof today, at least as far across as I could reach, I was wondering about this. After reading this thread, I think I'll build a nice big scaffolding on both sides and a nice wide bridge across so I can do the work and not have to stand on the roof, retrieve a fallen ladder, run the risk of sliding down the side of the coach and removing body parts, or have to figure out how to roll it back on the wheels after I'm done.... by the way, the idea of digging a big trench isn't a bad idea... I have the room and the equipment... just not the wife's permission to dig that huge tiger trap in the pasture.

But I did enjoy reading these ideas very much!

Thanks,
Pete
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Old 08-26-2010, 12:08 PM   #58
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Working on replacing skylight & fantastic fan with 2 8' A ladders.
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Old 08-26-2010, 12:38 PM   #59
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Working on replacing skylight & fantastic fan with 2 8' A ladders.
Cool idea. Nice looking trailer!

Thanks for posting the picture.

Gary
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
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Old 08-26-2010, 01:05 PM   #60
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Just a note on scaffolding, you can always try Craigslist. I have noticed before that quite often its available on there by the piece. I would of course think that you are more likely to find it if you live in a metro area vs. the country.
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