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Old 10-01-2017, 08:07 AM   #71
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2018 20' Flying Cloud
Colorado Springs , Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 47
Originally Posted by james.mileur View Post

What I got. Breaks down, stows well, lightweight, versital. Safe.
X 2

that is what I use as well...... for a lot more than the roof of the AS

Lynn Sr

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Old 10-01-2017, 08:13 AM   #72
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2018 20' Flying Cloud
Colorado Springs , Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 47
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post

Ok, as long as we are deep into ladder trivia:

Ladders have a weight rating. For *some* of us a 150 LB ladder may not be adequate . Even if it is adequate, a 300 or 450 LB ladder is going to feel a lot more sturdy. Your local big box store may only stock the 150 LB version. There *are* heavier ladders out there.

Ladder accidents *do* happen. It's an amazingly common occurrence. They have been going on for a *long* time and (surprising to me) are rarely fatal. You don't hear much about them, but they still do happen.

One of the best accessories for any ladder is a spotter on the ground. They can sit in an lawn chair and yell at you while you are on the roof. They come in handy when you are going up and down the ladder. They *might* be useful when you drop this or that ... Yes, that strange person who just showed up at the bottom of your ladder might be me. It's a "thing" I was trained to do early on.

Trailer chocking does not only apply at the campground. Going up on the roof and "bouncing" the trailer? Are the blocks in place? Hmmmm ....

Yes, this could go on and on ....

Bob, If you need a 300 to 450 pound ladder maybe you need to hire out the work on the "Airstream Roof"
Just Saying.........


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Old 10-01-2017, 01:43 PM   #73
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1995 30' Excella
Harper Woods , Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 171
This has been my first experience with being on the roof of any RV to inspect and renew the seal and caulk.

My first impressions are that the thicker the caulk, the more likely it is pull away from a fitting or to crack. I think that's because the caulk's cohesion to itself is greater than its adhesion to another material or a surface. I see no advantage whatsoever to slathering caulk on thick and globby. The next thing is that I noticed is that a previous worker's wiping action produced ridges and small dams that trapped a small thin layer/pool of water. I think that upon freezing and thawing that this creating these 'dams' eventually promotes infiltration under the caulk and expands holes and crevices.

I'm not convinced that removing the caulk and paint almost down to paint or bare metal can be achieved without exhaustive preparations. I think there will always be at least a very thin layer of the old caulk, and so scraping and scrubbing actually is only effective in reducing excess layers and also for opening up a new dirt & oil free surface so that a new fresh layer of caulk or sealant can adhere properly.

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