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Old 03-28-2012, 11:40 AM   #29
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2006 25' Safari
Fort Myers , Florida
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I can help with this one! I followed some advice by going to Lowes and getting them to cut some 5/8" chipboard to 30x30 pieces. I used two of them placed between rivet lines to act as work areas and step zones. I placed a four-folded towel between the ladder and the door's top awning to act as a support area for the ladder and had someone hold the ladder so it wouldn't walk on me. It worked. I have been up there several times now. You will need another piece of wood about 15x30 for narrow areas if you go all around.

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Old 03-29-2012, 06:25 PM   #30
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1978 Argosy 24
Scottsville , Virginia
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Posts: 97
accessing the roof

My husband Joe accesses the roof using one of those ladders that articulates. He uses carpet for padding on the trailer, and climbs up with the articulating ladder, and slides the AC up or down an extension ladder leaned against the other side (with carpet for protection also). The ladder is extended out least 20 feet or so from the trailer quite flat, and he has to lift the unit onto the ladder. Then it slides quite nicely. He has swapped out AC's three times with that method by himself, with no help. Good luck.


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Old 03-29-2012, 07:32 PM   #31
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1994 30' Excella
Truckee , California
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With all the $$ spent on maintenance and restoration, why would you risk potential damge to your pride and joy. Try renting scaffolding from a local source?
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:03 PM   #32
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[QUOTE=Steve & Susan;1045005]I've also taken a scrap 2 by 12 that is about 5 feet long and wrapped it in old carpet - that will span several of the cross-roof beams and spread your weight across more than one roof 'beam'./QUOTE]

That is an excellent ideal - think I'm going to have to borrow that one!!!
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:03 AM   #33
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Grand Junction , Colorado
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A wide enough butt can span the ribs. Eat before ascending to the roof.

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Old 04-05-2012, 01:54 PM   #34
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1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach , California
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Yesterday I finished the first cut of polishing my roof yesterday. I had an 8' ladder, positioned sideways as close as possible to the trailer without touching it. I went to the third step (last "safe" one), rotated 90 degrees, and reached my arm out, holding the compoound polisher out so that it just barely reached the centerline of the trailer. It took a while, and I am now stronger and sore in my arms, but it worked.

Required zero scaffolding, special tools, jigs, whatever. I just had to have a small vintage trailer and be 6'3" with long arms.
- Peter (and Marie)

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Old 04-05-2012, 06:07 PM   #35
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Corpus Christi , Texas
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From the world of Silver Streak:

Back the truck up to the tongue. Lay [2] 12' 2x10 pressure treat from tailgate to endcap. From roof take ropes secured around 15k COLEMAN crate skid and use Armstrong winch to pull new unit to roof. Remove ropes and let old unit down same way. (A helper to guide unit along boards recommended.)


With an AVION back truck to side of TT. Procedure as above. But take the pleasure of dumping the old unit over the side, summarily.

With an A/S:

Worry over being on roof even though the factory and Inland RV both send men up to carefully do R&R work. Etc. Search "oilcan" and "hand wringing".

The A/C units weigh about 90# overall. An old carpet square will boogie them right up and down the length of the trailer no problem.

If I was nearby I'd get over there to lend some hep. But it really ain't so much to worry over, IMO.


1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
2004 DODGE Cummins 305/555; 6-manual; 9k GVWR.
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