Flashing for Dickinson wood stove chimney

[TheGreatleys]

Originally Posted by Ppleasants

This is great info; I had only been able to find the gray silicon boot at tinywoodstoves.com but they’re backordered until January.. they said they had the gray boot custom made and with a little searching I wasn’t able to find any others. I just ordered the one you linked. I liked the clean look of a smooth sheet but I’ll trust the purpose-built product more.

Also, just to clarify, I am using Cubic Mini’s double-wall flue and will create essentially a third wall where it passes through the roof.

Glad you were able to find what you needed! Would love to see photos of your completed install when you're done. You should probably start a new thread for that.

You're going to love having wood heat in your rig. Our stove is one of my favorite additions to our space. We use it as often as possible for the ambiance alone, and it really saved our bacon last year when we got stuck in single digit temps for a few weeks.

[LiLNomad]

I am also pondering the Propane Dickinson....I am not keen on the hole in the roof. My friend gave an off the cuff suggestion to have the flue vented out the top oval window..this would require a slight bed of the flue to the left...but nothing like what I have seen online on other installs. I have a 27fb so it would be installed on the refrigerator wall (I dont have a TV there). Apparently her daughter had something similar set up (in a loft) where the installer was able to vent it out the window then I think frame the rest of the window...any thoughts?
Thanks
LilNomad

[Shermy1987]

I installed a Dickinson when i did my restoration. We've been using it daily for a month now as our main source of heat and love it. It takes about 20 mins with a chainsaw and axe to have a couple of weeks wood supply to feed it. If you understand the limitations of this stove and use it accordingly, you'll be very satisfied with its performance.

I used the factory Dickinson deck fitting to pass through the roof. It fits the roof well with a little extra sealant at the bottom to seal the curve. To get the stove pipe to exit through the roof at the correct angle I used a heavy gauge HVAC swivel fitting. The chimney pipe is Dickinson single wall stove pipe with a heat shield behind it made from Stainless sheet.

Using double wall pipe would drastically reduce the effective heat output. The trick is to not run the stove too hot. As the stove is made out of stainless sheet, running the stove at high temperatures will warp and render it useless anyhow. Running the stove at the designed temperature means that the pipe never really gets much hotter than maybe 250-300 Deg F where it exits the roof. The heat shield where the pipe exits the roof stays just under 212 Deg F and the Foam insulation has never changed form due to excessive heat. No doubt, if you were an Idiot you could probably get the fire hot enough to start melting insulation.

As for cutting the hole. It's not rocket science. The Standard Dickinson deck fitting requires a 5 inch hole which isn't too large. If you make sure you're missing the wiring and ribs etc its an easy cut with a jig saw. As I only had millimeters to spare to get my chimney to fit between the pantry and the sky window, I drilled pilot holes first until I got the exact distance I needed to make it fit. I figured that if I completely messed up, I'd only have to repair a few tiny holes instead of the 5 inch hole I just cut. Luckily my pilot holes showed me I was too close to the window shutter and I was able to re adjust before taking the plunge.

I don't have a close up of the deck fitting on hand but you can see it pretty well i you zoom in on the picture.

[Shermy1987]

I better add in response to Peters post. The Chimney top comes off and a cap goes on during transit. Without the cap on, the chimney is lower than the solar panels

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by LiLNomad

I am also pondering the Propane Dickinson....I am not keen on the hole in the roof. My friend gave an off the cuff suggestion to have the flue vented out the top oval window..this would require a slight bed of the flue to the left...but nothing like what I have seen online on other installs. I have a 27fb so it would be installed on the refrigerator wall (I dont have a TV there). Apparently her daughter had something similar set up (in a loft) where the installer was able to vent it out the window then I think frame the rest of the window...any thoughts?
Thanks
LilNomad

We have had out Dickinson since the trailer was new. There is no problem with water leaking around the chimney vent through the roof or down the chimney in heavy rain, even when driving. They are designed for boats at sea after all.

It is mounted on the bulkhead by the refrigerator where a television used to sit. The propane had to have it's own line and couldn't be tee'd off the propane for the fridge because of code. There is 12 volt power in the fridge compartment that was used to power the switched, low draw fan.

In the last photo you can see where the chimney cap sits. It needs to be above the drip line of the street side awning.

[Shermy1987]

I agree that not much rain gets in. However, using a wood heater, at 70 mph down the free way you'll find that enough airflow will allow fine particles of Ash to escape from the fire box after a long drive. It also prevents me from having the risk of having it snag on a tree branch. I used a similar heater on a sail boat for a long time. You always had to install a cap when sailing, as nothing is designed to keep water out when a wave or 75 mph of rainy wind hits something with giant holes in it.

[Shermy1987]

Here's a close-up of the deck fitting. It's installed at about the same angle as the range vent and fridge vent. As you can see. The fitting isn't really wide enough to be effected by the curvature of the roof

[Hittenstiehl]

We are really enjoying this discussion on the Dickinson as we have had one on our list for the future for quite some time.

We first saw this heater on a thread called "first she had to take a boat ride" by pbearsailor/Steve as he did a renovation on a 57 Caravanner while being a caretaker for his wife Pam.

if you guys don't mind I'm going to post a picture of theirs on here also so that we can all see as much as you can about the Dickinsons for those with questions as they put theirs in in the future.

[Hittenstiehl]

Steve's thread was/is called "first she had to take a ride on a boat", the image of his Dickinson heater is on post #255 on page 19 of 42. He is still on the forms on occasion and the thread was absolutely a beautiful read. Not just the trailer work but also as he described his wife Pam.

[Ppleasants]

Do any of you all who are using the flexible flue pipe have any feedback, positive or negative? I’m placing my Cubic Mini Cub directly below where the range hood used to sit and would love to reuse the existing hole in the roof but it would require making a jog towards the outer wall and exiting at an angle as some of you have done with deck fitting.

I’ve read some strong recommendations elsewhere against using 45* fittings and it sounds like there are compatibility issues with the Cubic Mini double-wall flue pipe, regardless. I will probably have to adapt something either way but maybe this flex-pipe will offer a smoother transition for reduced airflow restriction..? It’s hard to tell which will play a larger negative effect in draft: the corrugated inner surface or a sharper bend.

Any thoughts are welcome. Also note that my stove may run hotter than some of you are reporting since it sounds like heavier construction and I won’t be afraid of warping; I’m really unsure. I really like the Dickinsons but the price was right on the Cubic Mini

[TheGreatleys]

Originally Posted by Ppleasants

Do any of you all who are using the flexible flue pipe have any feedback, positive or negative? I’m placing my Cubic Mini Cub directly below where the range hood used to sit and would love to reuse the existing hole in the roof but it would require making a jog towards the outer wall and exiting at an angle as some of you have done with deck fitting.

I’ve read some strong recommendations elsewhere against using 45* fittings and it sounds like there are compatibility issues with the Cubic Mini double-wall flue pipe, regardless. I will probably have to adapt something either way but maybe this flex-pipe will offer a smoother transition for reduced airflow restriction..? It’s hard to tell which will play a larger negative effect in draft: the corrugated inner surface or a sharper bend.

Any thoughts are welcome. Also note that my stove may run hotter than some of you are reporting since it sounds like heavier construction and I won’t be afraid of warping; I’m really unsure. I really like the Dickinsons but the price was right on the Cubic Mini

The flexible pipe you're seeing in this thread is connected to direct vent LP gas stoves, not wood stoves. It's 3" outer with like a 1.5" inner, and will definitely not work for your wood stove install. You need solid fuel rated stovepipe, not gas pipe, and not pellet pipe.

Two 45s can work well in a cubic mini flue as long as it's otherwise well designed. Since the only places in North America (as far as I'm aware) that offer 3" solid fuel rated flue pipe are Cubic Mini, Dickinson Marine, and TinyWoodStove.com, and the latter two are the only ones who offer elbows, that sort of narrows down your options.

Keep in mind if you need elbows, you're going to be using single-wall pipe, which requires twice the clearance as double-wall pipe. If you were using cubic's wall mount with single wall pipe, you'd end up violating clearances if the wall you're mounting on is combustible.

[LiLNomad]

Not sure if anyone had any answers but...were there any thoughts regarding having the pipe directed out the top oval window on the 27fb? This window is on the fridge wall...this would eliminate cutting the hole...and is right above where the stove would be mounted..with a slight bend to the left.
Thanks
LilNomad

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by LiLNomad

Not sure if anyone had any answers but...were there any thoughts regarding having the pipe directed out the top oval window on the 27fb? This window is on the fridge wall...this would eliminate cutting the hole...and is right above where the stove would be mounted..with a slight bend to the left.
Thanks
LilNomad

I posted a reply with photos of our installation. I would not recommend using the vista-view window. There is no need as it is easy to install the chimney through the roof. If you went out the side you would below the drip channel of the road side awning making it unusable.

[Ppleasants]

This was my concern... that to use elbows I’ll have to abandon the double wall for single-wall flue pipe. I guess I will just have to cut a new hole for the flue pipe so I can run it straight up and patch the old range vent. I picked up some Alclad for my door handle retrofit and I have plenty left over.

Originally Posted by TheGreatleys

Keep in mind if you need elbows, you're going to be using single-wall pipe, which requires twice the clearance as double-wall pipe. If you were using cubic's wall mount with single wall pipe, you'd end up violating clearances if the wall you're mounting on is combustible.

[rbarschaw]

For those that are interested check out our latest post on how we installed the cubic mini wood stove in our custom 1960 Airstream

http://www.offgridstream.com

[B_Boult]

it is now November 2019. The Dickerson wood stove worked but was not super efficient to get me through a whole winter so I upgraded to a Hobbit Wood Stove. The little Dickerson would be good to travel with though if not super cold.
Anyway I now have a 4 inch stove pipe going through the same hole as the original 3 inch. There is enough clearance and all the metal around the stove pipe is reflective so it does not get hot on the other side. I should mention that since this is in a 1955 airstream there is no wood or flammable material in the construction. So this method works because of that. It why I do not have double insulated chimney stack the only thing the chimney touches is the silicon membrane that snugs around it through the roof. So no flammable material is close to it. I have reflective on all surfaces around the stove and have had the stove really hot and placed my hand on the other side of reflective material and it is cold. Fridge is right next to stove and all heat get reflected and is cool on fridge side. If I was to do this again I would have placed stove on other side of trailer not near the door. When coming in to trailer it is nice to have room to enter and get shoes off. It is a trailer. a small space and has to be laid out efficiently for sanity.
I have been running the Hobbit Wood Stove for 4 years now with no issues except the ash mess and wood particle mess from bringing in wood and cleaning wood stove but that is a given.
So 4 years of use and no problems. Like I said it is all metal you are passing through so it won't catch fire.
I have replaced the original silicon membrane and yesterday, at the thrift store found a grey silicon pizza sheet which will become my new membrane since my replacement silicon was red. So it all can be done with silicon backing pans those rubbery things people use for backing. Thrift stores are full of them and they can withstand 450 F. It will not really be that hot in the upper part of your chimney pipe where it is being used and is exposed to the outside.
My chimney temp is usually average 375 F at 1 ½ feet from stove outlet, that is where my thermometer is attached to stove pipe. I try to maintain a good combustion using the thermometer helps with that.
So it has been perfect for 4 years. Probably gets a little too warm for such a small space but iI have 12v fans that I throw on to circulate air and remove heat if too warm. The Hobbit stove is really efficient and can warm this space up in minutes even when it got to 20-.
It all works, I live in this Airstream all year round and this is what I use to heat it in the winter. In the summer I remove everything and do a good clean and maintenance check of stove and chimney.

Have fun
Cheers

[Sylvain]

I am digging up this interesting thread as I am currently exploring heating options for my rebuild.

I was wondering if instead of drilling the roof I could re-route the exhaust via the fridge vent? Is that a completely stupid idea?