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Old 01-17-2014, 04:50 PM   #1
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Rear hold down plate, What order?

I just had a nice stainless hold down plate made for my shell of floor repair. The PO had all ready mucked around back there and I am not sure the proper order for the parts.

Frame, then plywood floor, hold down plate, then "C" channel

or

Frame, hold down plate, plywood, then "C" channel

It looks like it was frame, plate, wood, "C" but I am not sure.

Thanks
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:34 PM   #2
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This is what I did for ours....

=- Bart
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:54 PM   #3
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Thanks, Bart. That is where my thoughts were headed as it provides moisture protection for the wood. I just didn't want to mess it up when Iv'e gone to the trouble of taking the shell off.
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:30 PM   #4
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I can understand that... I snuck ours in w/ just a bathroom floor replacement in one heck of a hurry to get ready for a several week trip.

One of the key things is that the stock tie down in the back of the trailer was just to the C channel; I found this very weak. I added a row of rivets that picked up the stock skin, the additional skin I added and the stainless plate. The skin on our trailer at the C channel was/is quite corroded, so those rivets made a big difference in strength since they were in nice strong material.

- Bart
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:28 AM   #5
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I did it the same way as Bart except I extended the hold down plate to the ouboard side of each of the vertical ribs, and then added an angle clipping the vertical rib to the "C" channel all the way down through the frame cross member. One other thing I did was to route the bottom of the plywood for clearance of the hold down plate. This let the ply set flush and not ramp up at the rear with the extra thickness of the hold down between the ply and the frame.

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Old 01-18-2014, 10:21 AM   #6
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Like Bart, I added some reinforcement/protection(in picture is painted white and not completely in place yet. This sheet was added to provide an external barrier for the plywood. My back end was so rotted and messed up I wasn't sure what was original or repair or what. But the hinge of the bumper box was attached to a strip of Alum(almost disintegrated) that slid under the ply. This created a water flow to the ply that I feel was the main reason for rot. So this sheet is intended to shield the ply back there. In effect it amounts to extending the skin to the bottom of the crossmember. This will also be the front of the bumper box.

Bart, I know you gave the disclaimer of being not to scale, but is the hold down angled like that. I never inspected mine that closely, but I thought it was just 90 degree angle. Maybe mine is aftermarket.

AeroW, I had wondered about notching out a place for the ply to sit flush. Makes sense (of course too late for me to do it now. Next time!)

Good stuff.
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:23 PM   #7
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The plate sits flat on the frame and lies against the back of the trailer; I carried it up a ways longer than stock. Mine is definitely at an non-90 angle...I made mine out of 18 Ga or so stainless; since I don't have a sheet metal brake the bend is a little ... informal.. but it's all hidden now .

- Bart
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Old 01-19-2014, 05:37 AM   #8
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Thanks to all. I too have extended the width of the hold down plate. My new floor is Marine grade ply which has then been sealed with WestSystem epoxy. I also plan to add a thin secondary barrier around the edge of the wood (I guess it would be a third barrier if you count the epoxy as well) just for additional protection. My plan is for the next owner in 40 years to jump on the bumper and say, "Wow this is solid!"
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:05 PM   #9
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I realize this is an older post...but I have a few questions. With the additional aluminum for reinforcing, would it be possible to bend it out so that the storage area lid has something to attach to? (see pic, modified version of Barts)...or is this too severe a bend?

It seemed like a lot of work to get my rear hold down plate off and even though there is a lot of corrosion, it is still a pretty solid piece of metal. If it lasted almost 30 years without any protection and that troublesome aluminum piece underneath it...shouldn't I be able to get another 30 by reusing this plate (that already has holes in the right place) and apply POR or RustBullet?
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Old 10-08-2017, 04:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80BELLA View Post
I realize this is an older post...but I have a few questions. With the additional aluminum for reinforcing, would it be possible to bend it out so that the storage area lid has something to attach to? (see pic, modified version of Barts)...or is this too severe a bend?

It seemed like a lot of work to get my rear hold down plate off and even though there is a lot of corrosion, it is still a pretty solid piece of metal. If it lasted almost 30 years without any protection and that troublesome aluminum piece underneath it...shouldn't I be able to get another 30 by reusing this plate (that already has holes in the right place) and apply POR or RustBullet?
Note that the key is to keep the water from wicking underneath the plywood. Your pic looks like it would work, but beware around the ends so that water has a place to go that doesn't get to the wood.

As regards to reusing that plate, if it's in good shape, use it. Mine was completely rotted out under the ply and where it attached to the skin.

Note that on our trailer the only rivets connecting the skin to the rear hold down plate also went through the C channel. This area was in very poor shape, with the skin corroded to the point where many of the holes had torn out. Drilling a set of rivet holes at the factory spacing about 4 inches up and bucketing in rivets let me tie the stainless hold down plate to the skin in a very secure manner; with stainless hold down bolts securing the plywood and C channel to the frame, it's not going anywhere.

So:

1. Keep the water out. Water runs downhill or sideways, make sure you're not relying on a dam of caulk to prevent disaster.

2. The rear hold-down plate ties the back of the aluminum skin to the frame. The stock rivets in the C channel are in a vulnerable place because they see a lot of water, and rivet steel and aluminum together. If this area is still in good shape, go ahead and do that in the stock manner - but get rid of that plate that goes underneath of the plywood.

- Bart
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