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Old 08-18-2015, 12:29 PM   #43
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1974 31' Sovereign
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Picture's worth a thousand words

While the hold down plate would protect much of the back, at least without that aluminum piece going under it to direct water there, I wanted full width you can see the piece that goes behind the skin, it goes from frame rail to frame rail, had to use short pieces for top of the rail due to the curve.
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I think a L bracket coming backward for at least the center section of the rear would be good, not so much for water but for supporting the center of the new plate. Things set just for reference, everything still needs to be cut and fit in the future, sealant will go between trim and top of diamond plate.
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I also put some flashing outside the rails forward along the curve for added protection since there isn't c channel back there wrapping around the wood edge. On all the wood edge under the curved ends where there isn't c channel wrapping the wood I wrapped the edge in several layers of aluminum tape going in about 1.5" from the edge so it wrapped the edges and in under the u channel as well. So I've got outer skin, flashing, aluminum tape, and 4 layers of paint/primer between the elements and the wood edges, should last a long time.
Last floor was 35 years old and most of it was in good shape besides being old, dirty, and a little smelly, back 4" was rotted and front by the battery box had a little rot. No support under the plastic box trying to support that battery will inevitably cause the plastic box to crack and leaks, box replaced and everything sealed like crazy. Floor should last 35 years.
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Old 08-18-2015, 12:30 PM   #44
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1974 31' Sovereign
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Since it sounds like you're replacing the floor you may want to paint or epoxy the edges top and bottom in from the edge 6" or so to protect the edges from moisture/water. I also painted the entire top of the floor with porch/floor paint to protect it from moisture/dirt/future musty smelling wood. Don't paint the bottom so the wood still has a path to breathe and dry out.
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Old 08-18-2015, 10:20 PM   #45
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Inexplicable bumper design

Wow. Thanks the the detailed info and pics. Looks like water won't ever reach your rear floor again, at least not via the rear bumper. I see what you mean about the curve and it appears difficult to flash in one piece. Probably over kill but I wonder about using a single strip of Ice and Watershield or a strip of EPDM glued to the inside of the outer panels that go from one curved end to the next. I suspect the ribs would interfere though. Another thought...if the edge of the rear piece of plywood were planed down a fraction, the edge could be wrapped in Ice and Watershield.

I just realized too that to slip the drip edge against the outer skin, that the outer panel rivets likely have to be drilled out to free up space between the exterior panels and ribs. I was hoping to do everything by removing only the inner skins, but I guess that won't be enough. As usual, things just got a bit more complicated. Exterior rivets...
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:28 PM   #46
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Inexplicable bumper design

So as a temporary fix until I can modify the bumper correctly, I sealed the area real well between that plate and the shell/trim. A good dunking of water with a hose and no leaks.

So I thought I was good until I was inside last night during a heavy rain. The entire back edge of the floor was wet. I look up and I can see a slight bit of water trickling down the side of the screen between the screen itself and the window.

I imagine the source of this leak may be where the rear awning attaches above the window. I also wondered if my old window gasket might be part of the problem too, although I didn't see any water running down the window--only water along the screen. No wonder my floor is rotten back there...
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Old 09-14-2015, 05:56 PM   #47
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I had a similar leak. Cleaned and sealed all along the top of the rear window and it was gone.
You can also put a bead of sealant along the top of the awning rail.
You may also need a new window gasket. They're pretty easy to replace, hard part is cleaning up the old one and residue. The gasket seam should be on bottom.
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Old 09-14-2015, 06:11 PM   #48
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I'll double check the gasket seam to make sure it's at the bottom. I assume vulkem (or similar polyurethane sealant) for the awning rail and top of window.

I've actually been using Sikaflex Universal from Lowes for some other areas and it seems to work pretty well. I've actually not used the Vulkem/Tremco before though, so nothing to compare to. 
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:25 PM   #49
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Should work, assuming it's polyurethane based.
I've used trempro, I hate the stuff because it seems to know exactly where I don't want it to go, especially on me. Seems to work pretty well, but it seems to chalk up a little where exposed to the sun, seals well though, at least so far.
Another spot to check for the leak would be around the round bath vent if you have one back there, it's a pain to get to.
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:57 PM   #50
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This stuff is polyurethane based, and like you said it tends to find a way to get on everything. I find keeping a rag covered in mineral spirits a necessity. So far I haven't noticed any chalking, but my oldest application of it is only since July.

Center bath unit here, but thanks for the tip on the bath vent. I just resealed mine this summer. I sure wish they made a mini Maxx Air cover to go over the bath vent so it could be left open rain or shine like the rest of the vents with covers.
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Old 09-14-2015, 10:48 PM   #51
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I haven't put any covers on my vents yet. A mini one would be cool. Could probably make something out of aluminum .
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:31 PM   #52
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I haven't put any covers on my vents yet. A mini one would be cool. Could probably make something out of aluminum .
Vent covers have 2 basic purposes.

1. Let air into the coach.

2. Also to let daylight into the trailer.

Airstream went from all metal, to a metal cover with a plastic center, and then finally, to all plastic.

They learned over a long time, that allowing daylight into the trailer, is very nice.

Andy
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:33 PM   #53
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I can see where the extra daylight would be nice. It'd be nice too if the bath vent had a cover so it could be left open rain or shine
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Old 09-25-2015, 08:05 PM   #54
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Purchased some Captain Tolleys for the leaks. Haven't applied it yet and am in the trailer in a downpour. Oddly, no evidence of any leaks at this time.
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Old 10-09-2015, 06:36 PM   #55
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Purchased some Captain Tolleys for the leaks. Haven't applied it yet and am in the trailer in a downpour. Oddly, no evidence of any leaks at this time.
The one thing I have found with leaks is there are so many variables as to when and where they will show up. Whether you are leaning curbside, streetside or pitched to the front or the back as well as the direction of the prevailing wind will all factor in to when and where you will see leaks. I cringe when I see people take of their inner panels, work on their wiring and insulate and seal one up within a month as they never have given enough time for the flaws to show. It took a year of my girl being naked inside before I was confident all leaks were caught. :-)
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Old 10-09-2015, 08:20 PM   #56
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I hear what you're saying. Now I guess the question is how much time do you have prior to needing to inspect for leaks again. I don't understand why Airstreams are so prone to leaks. Does that shell flex THAT much? Why is that greyhound buses and trucks and other autos don't have these problems.
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