Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-21-2014, 11:40 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,408
Images: 5
Ideas wanted for Classic bumper repair

For some time I have had a crack emanating from the rivets on the rear bumper of my Classic. I don't have a picture, but stole this one from a Robert Cross post from 2011....hope Robert doesn't mind, as my AS is in storage and covered in snow.

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC07528.jpg
Views:	194
Size:	282.8 KB
ID:	204111

I am talking about the big rivets which attach the plastic end caps to the center fiberglass, and both to small frame member. It has always appeared that the rivets were:
1) actually holding the end caps down and "correcting" a wide gap between the two pieces (ie, curved like a bowl)
2) creating a lot of stress due to their high clamp load, stressing the plastic and allowing no movement between the parts.

I should've addressed this earlier, as the recent frigid winter has cracked the other side and caused multiple cracks on the original side.

Here is what I am thinking for a repair...looking for affirmation, pitfalls and suggestions.

1) drill out the old rivets
2) insert sheet aluminum between the fiberglass and the plastic with a coating of epoxy on the top surface, stabilizing the cracked plastic. This would also elevate the end cap edge and relieve the "bowl" effect.
3) use an Olympic rivet (maybe not even fully compressed with the rivet gun) with a rubber fender washer, topped with a stainless fender washer, between the end cap surface and the Olympic rivet head.

My thought is this attachment would allow for relative motion between the fiberglass center, plastic end cap and attaching angle iron. I think the Olympic rivet would allow for a bit larger hole and lessen the clamp load.

I hope this makes sense. Suggestions?
__________________

__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2014, 11:52 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,311
Rich, Let us know how that works because I have the same cracks in the plastic around the rivets.

I know this is just a "patch" approach, but I was planning on filling the cracks with "Bondo" because it should stick to the plastic, level, and then paint (the paint has come off my plastic also).
__________________

__________________
Regards,
Steve
SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2014, 11:58 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,408
Images: 5
Yes, it is a "patch" approach. As you know, replacement of the end caps is a pretty major job....one I'd like to delay until I fully understand this common failure and until I need to "rebuild" the rear area for best sealing and repair. I currently have no problems with the rear end leaking nor any structural problem. If this works (or something based upon suggestions here) we would then, maybe, learn how to "float" the rear bumper surfaces.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2014, 02:19 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,408
Images: 5
So I got most of this job done last night. Still need to find some matching paint and generally detail the repair.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20140403_135925_208.jpg
Views:	167
Size:	152.4 KB
ID:	208898 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20140403_135938_216.jpg
Views:	161
Size:	193.2 KB
ID:	208899

I took a piece of scrap aluminum about 2" X 6" (just held it up to the bumper rivet area...no need to be precise), coated the top of it with JB Weld an slid it between the fiberglass center section and the plastic end wrap, while holding the plastic up with a screwdriver as best as I could.

Reassembled like a jigsaw puzzle making sure Epoxy filled the cracks. Where necessary, I used my fingertip to work epoxy into cracks.

I wanted to use the stainless bolts/stainless washers/rubber fenderwashers in all holes, but the rear ones are blind. I tightened the nylock nuts on the stainless bolts just barely snug to allow for relative motion between the center and end sections.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2014, 05:53 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,311
Rich,

Just wondering how your repair procedure has worked out.

I finally got around to working on mine, and my idea of the Bondo did now work out as it did not stick well to the plastic. I then filled the gaps with Goop because I knew it did stick well to plastics.

Then, since the center section was faded badly, and the paint was bad on the top of the side pieces, I decided to paint all of them, tops only.

After the paint dried, I used some stick-on non skid just for a way to hide the looks of the cracked plastic.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	161.jpg
Views:	139
Size:	251.3 KB
ID:	213352   Click image for larger version

Name:	163.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	230.8 KB
ID:	213353  

Click image for larger version

Name:	172.jpg
Views:	128
Size:	317.6 KB
ID:	213354  
__________________
Regards,
Steve
SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2014, 05:59 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,408
Images: 5
That looks good Steve. So far, so good with mine, but not a lot of miles yet. Will still need to work on cosmetics, but the epoxy with aluminum backer seems to be solid.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2014, 06:03 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,311
Thanks Rich, it's a patch, everyone knows it, and it seems all of the classics of this age are cracked in that area. But, at least it's not quite so ugly, and I can live with that.
__________________
Regards,
Steve
SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2014, 08:11 AM   #8
3 Rivet Member
 
truxpin's Avatar
 
2001 34' Limited
Tucson , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 247
Looking at both of your "fixes" makes me want to attempt to do something with our rear bumper. (2001 '34 Limited) We have the same issue, basically, the rear bumper is cupped upwards. Turning it into a water collection area.
Has anyone ever seen one of these bumpers removed and a "standard" stand out metal bumper put in it's place? I'm sure our rear bumper looked great when new, but now to me, it's just an eye sore, AND a potential wallet busting one at that!
I've been tempted to find an authorized body shop and get an estimate to remove the whole ugly thing and replace it, but if this is the way it's going to end up in another 5 years, that another tough pill to swallow.
__________________
2013 Ram Power Wagon 2500 4X4 5.7 Hemi
2001 Airstream '34 Limited
Hensley Arrow

Fulltime in 2013 and LOVING it !!
truxpin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2014, 08:34 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,408
Images: 5
I suppose it could be done, but you'd lose the drawer storage, which I couldn't live with. IMO, the only reason the ends crack like that is the fact that they are riveted down tight in a stressed position and that doesn't allow for flex. I am not worried about the water collection on the center section, as the fiberglass is rolled up into a lip under the lower belt and cannot leak to the shell EXCEPT at the joint between the plastic ends and the center section.

So far...so good on any rear leak originating from the bumper. I had water back there and finally figured out it was from the awning wheel mounts and was running back there through the c channel.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2014, 07:27 AM   #10
hang up and drive
 
kry226's Avatar
 
2010 30' Classic
:) , Germany
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 214
Don't have any cracking myself yet, but I do have one of the large rivets beginning to back itself out by about 1/4". It still has great tension and I cannot pull or twist the rivet by hand, but I know it's only a matter of time before it breaks loose and I need to replace.

Has anyone sourced such a large diameter rivet?
__________________
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins 4WD (SOLD)
2010 Classic 30
ProPride P3-1400
kry226 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2016, 02:27 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
KJRitchie's Avatar

 
2008 25' Classic
Wichita Falls , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,222
I'm Joining the Club

Went out to the trailer today and noticed my curb side bumper is cracked from the rivets. We had a couple on mornings below 10F a few weeks ago.

How is everyone's repair holding out?

I should probable drill a little hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from spreading until I figure out a repair or get it repaired by someone who knows what they're doing.

Kelvin
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1831.jpg
Views:	66
Size:	231.6 KB
ID:	256545  
__________________
2008 Classic 25fb "Silver Mistress"
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. Crew Cab, 4x4, Silver
KJRitchie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2016, 03:31 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,408
Images: 5
Holding fine. No progression.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2016, 04:05 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
KJRitchie's Avatar

 
2008 25' Classic
Wichita Falls , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,222
Anyone know the procedure for removing that part. I guess the lower rub rail must be removed, then remove all the rivets holding the bumper cover?

Kelvin
__________________
2008 Classic 25fb "Silver Mistress"
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. Crew Cab, 4x4, Silver
KJRitchie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2016, 05:01 PM   #14
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,408
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Anyone know the procedure for removing that part. I guess the lower rub rail must be removed, then remove all the rivets holding the bumper cover?

Kelvin
Yes, and a few fasteners underneath plus the two in your pic. I won't remove mine unless replacement is needed someday. Then I'll use floating fasteners instead of rivets on top. I think they use screws under the rub rail.
__________________

__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.