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Old 06-27-2004, 01:43 PM   #1
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How to clean up bumper

Attached is a photo of the bumper of our '64 Bambi II. To clean this up, some say to sandblast and others say to use a wire brush tool mounted on a drill. Any suggestions on the best way to clean this up?
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Old 06-27-2004, 01:58 PM   #2
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Use a sand blaster if you have it available, but do mask the aluminum panels that might get accidentally hit by media reflected from the part you're blasting.
For a small part like this bumper, a wire brush in a drill might be just fine. It's easier to control, and far less messy.

You could even get away with some 120grit on a random orbit sander, as the bumper is relatively flat, without the horizontal center contour. My favorite sander is a Dewalt, it uses the round disks with holes in them.
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Old 06-27-2004, 06:31 PM   #3
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Then hit it with some POR-15. It will look like new and you will never have to mess with it again.

http://www.por15.com/
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Old 06-27-2004, 07:25 PM   #4
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I thought POR15 was not UV stable, and should only be used in dark regions.....is that true? Does it need top coating? Someone said it would fade if exposed to sunlight.
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Old 06-27-2004, 08:34 PM   #5
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I thought POR15 was not UV stable, and should only be used in dark regions.....
Not sure were that came from....

STIRLING SILVER is non-porous and will not crack, chip, or peel when properly applied according to directions. It has amazing scratch and abrasion resistance and is similar in strength to regular POR-15 Rust Preventive Coatings. STIRLING SILVER is not sensitive to ultra-violet light and may be exposed to sunlight without damaging consequences. STIRLING SILVER has excellent adhesion characteristics and may be applied over POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint months or years later with proper preparation

Same for the black.

See the site for more info.
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Old 06-28-2004, 10:00 AM   #6
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The 'Stirling Silver' is the top coat & it is UV stable. The 'Silver' is the base coat and it's not...it discolored in the one week between coats for me. Doesn't affect it's durability, just appearance...it turned it a greenish gold color.

While ours wasn't quite as rusty as yours, I think it'll work just the same. I would wire brush or drill off the loose flakes, but you don't have to get every last bit of rust off. We are very happy with the end results of the POR-15 it's very durable & it loves rust, sticks really well.

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Old 06-28-2004, 12:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyW
Not sure were that came from....

STIRLING SILVER is non-porous and will not crack, chip, or peel when properly applied according to directions. It has amazing scratch and abrasion resistance and is similar in strength to regular POR-15 Rust Preventive Coatings. STIRLING SILVER is not sensitive to ultra-violet light and may be exposed to sunlight without damaging consequences. STIRLING SILVER has excellent adhesion characteristics and may be applied over POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint months or years later with proper preparation

Same for the black.

See the site for more info.
I thought we're talking POR15 here, not Stirling Silver....

From the POR15 site:

Primer, Paints, & Coatings POR-15 RUST PREVENTIVE
*

POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint

POR-15 is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture.

Use it to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray.

POR-15 is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.
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