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Old 10-01-2006, 08:17 AM   #1
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Bumper Rollers

Does anyone here have rollers installed on their trailers? I am trying to protect my investment from those crazy dips in some drives at out of the way places. Any reccommendations
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:45 AM   #2
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i have them on a 34ft avion and they work great. i have to have them for my driveway. trailer had the hard plastic ones when i got it, they will not hold up, get the steel ones from tractor supply.
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Old 10-01-2006, 09:32 AM   #3
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Got any pictures?
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Old 10-01-2006, 09:46 AM   #4
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I intended to install them on my '98 Safari before it got crashed. I had already bent both sides where it had little "scrape plates" to protect the bumper. I would spent the extra $$ and get good ones. My current trailer seems to do fine in most dips.
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Old 10-01-2006, 10:05 AM   #5
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I am curious about the use of rollers, obviously Chummy does not need them, but I wonder if it would possibly damage your frame. You are placing an item below the bumper and when it hits the pavement it will put all the pressure on the rear of the frame. Granted the dents and dings you get when hitting a dip in a drive are unsightly but the soft aluminum or bumper has absorbed all of the shock. Just a thought.
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Old 10-01-2006, 10:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent
I am curious about the use of rollers, obviously Chummy does not need them, but I wonder if it would possibly damage your frame. You are placing an item below the bumper and when it hits the pavement it will put all the pressure on the rear of the frame. Granted the dents and dings you get when hitting a dip in a drive are unsightly but the soft aluminum or bumper has absorbed all of the shock. Just a thought.
That's a good point on placing them below the frame - you don't want to further lower your angle of departure. I would pull a string between the rear wheel contact point and the rear bumper and then mount the rollers so they only protrude below that stringline as much as needed. The further forward you mount them the less contact they will make with the ground. FWIW.
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Old 10-01-2006, 02:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny
Does anyone here have rollers installed on their trailers? I am trying to protect my investment from those crazy dips in some drives at out of the way places. Any reccommendations

DO NOT install rollers.

They "will" cause damage to the rear quarter panels should the rollers hit the ground, because the trailer will be artificially lifted with an added shock.

All Airstream trailers have built in "skids" plates added to the bottom of the rear frame. Slow down, drag the trailer on the skid plates and your OK.

If and when the skid plates become severely worn, simply replace them.

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Old 10-01-2006, 03:26 PM   #8
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Andy,
I put 5" swivel wheels on my 03 28 SO.Safari when we brought it. They are just inside the skid plates and hang down just about 2". this has not hurt the trailer at all. I do agree with you about slowing down.
I have seen skid plates broken, even when going slow. I will take my chances with the wheels.
Eric
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:31 PM   #9
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my 34 ft avion has 6inch frame and heavy steel bumper with swivel wheels.
i see a lot of swivel wheels on longer trailers and 5th wheels in campgrounds
all the time.
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:42 PM   #10
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Andy,
I put 5" swivel wheels on my 03 28 SO.Safari when we brought it. They are just inside the skid plates and hang down just about 2". this has not hurt the trailer at all. I do agree with you about slowing down.
I have seen skid plates broken, even when going slow. I will take my chances with the wheels.
Eric

We replace dozens of rear quarter panels every year, that got damaged because the trailer had the dolly wheels.

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Old 10-01-2006, 05:35 PM   #11
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I went to the lumber yard today, and bought a 2x10, cut it in half, and use that to bridge the low spot in our driveway. Our '63 has no skid plates, and I think a $7 piece of wood is cheaper than replacing several aluminum panels.
Obviously you can't do this while driving down the road, but it helps here.
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Old 10-01-2006, 06:05 PM   #12
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My plan is to bring it home without them and see how it does coming up the driveway. My drive is not extreme but it would raise my awareness especially when I go to back it in.
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Old 10-01-2006, 06:09 PM   #13
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Terry.

Check your axles. If they are bad, the trailer will be lower to the ground, which aggravates the problem.

http://www.inlandrv.com/articles/dur...axle-92001.htm

Andy
The axles aren't that great, they are dead level, and on my list of things to fix or replace, slowly moving to the top.
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:30 PM   #14
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I solved the bottoming out quite by accident. I installed air shocks on my E350 extended van and use them to raise and lower both the rear of the van and the Airstream. When I see a bottom scrape problem coming I inflate the rear shocks to the max and slowly move over the scrape zone of the rear of the van so it won't scrape than let all the air out of the shocks so the rear of the Airstream is higher off the ground so it won't scrape. Going slow and inflating and deflating timing the shocks is important than remembering to put the air back in the shocks at the right pressure for my unit once on level ground. It really works. Andy from inland told me that air shocks were a bad idea "an accident waiting to happen". Well after thousands and thousands of miles towing I think the air shocks saved us from many close calls not to mention avoiding bottoming out problems.
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Old 10-02-2006, 10:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinsel Loaf
I solved the bottoming out quite by accident. I installed air shocks on my E350 extended van and use them to raise and lower both the rear of the van and the Airstream. When I see a bottom scrape problem coming I inflate the rear shocks to the max and slowly move over the scrape zone of the rear of the van so it won't scrape than let all the air out of the shocks so the rear of the Airstream is higher off the ground so it won't scrape. Going slow and inflating and deflating timing the shocks is important than remembering to put the air back in the shocks at the right pressure for my unit once on level ground. It really works. Andy from inland told me that air shocks were a bad idea "an accident waiting to happen". Well after thousands and thousands of miles towing I think the air shocks saved us from many close calls not to mention avoiding bottoming out problems.

The improper use of "air shocks" were a major factor in two thirds ofall loss of control accidents, as Caravanner Insurance company learned.

Any air pressure above minimum, will progressively reduce the stress on the "load equalizing bars." Accordingly then, why noy eliminate the bars all together and let the air shocks do the work?

The answer we all know, is that you "must" use load equalizing bars, and they must be properly rated and properly installed.

Caravanner Insurance had thousands of files to document that statement, especially what happens when someone has chosen to do otherwise.

Any given, far out example or opinion, does not out weight thousands of files of data, that very clearly demonstrated the need for load equalizing hitches, sway controls and proper ratings and installations.

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Old 10-02-2006, 06:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
I went to the lumber yard today, and bought a 2x10, cut it in half, and use that to bridge the low spot in our driveway. Our '63 has no skid plates, and I think a $7 piece of wood is cheaper than replacing several aluminum panels.
Good point, Terry. I used a 2x10, that I had in the truck for leveling up the AS, to help me get out of a parking lot with a steep dip in downtown Miami.
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Old 10-02-2006, 07:15 PM   #17
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I can see skid plates working on gravel or dirt just fine. But on blacktop or cement they will either ride up or dig in.In Which case the rear quarter panels most likely will be damage.
Eric
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Old 10-02-2006, 11:38 PM   #18
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I can see skid plates working on gravel or dirt just fine. But on blacktop or cement they will either ride up or dig in.In Which case the rear quarter panels most likely will be damage.
Eric
Eric I agree. But even more important reason for rollers in my mind, is when you are forced for what ever reason, to make a turn as you enter/exit a driveway or dip. It is at that time that you are not only applying upward force on the rear of the trailer, but also lateral forces as the tail swings during the turn.
Some would say thay you need to plan your route, etc. That's fine until forced out of your planned route by another vehicle, etc. I'm always very aware of dips/bumps but have still dragged the tail a few times. It happens.
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Old 10-03-2006, 05:45 AM   #19
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i have dragged my skid plates a number of times in forward and reverse. mostly in my driveway. i have found that having the tanks empty and removing my bars prevent this.

when they get to the point of needing replacement i will just cut them off and weld on new ones. all they are is a section of "c" channel. consumable part in my book.

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Old 10-03-2006, 05:53 PM   #20
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John,

If that is your drive in the background it looks similar to mine. That is why I am waiting to get the trailer home to check it all out and take some measurements.

Thanks
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